Stihl 051 / 075 Evaluation by a Rookie

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TPA

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About a year ago, I purchased 2 051s from the bay that cost about $120 each shipped. I didn't really care if the saws were in bad shape, what I wanted was an inexpensive pro saw to learn on. I've been involved in other projects so this is the first chance I've had to look at them. One of them had my curiosity up, so I was really itching to look at it. See for yourself.


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An early model 051, right? Well have a look at this...


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If you look carefully, you will see a manual oiler there. Now, I'm wondering if this is an 075 in disguise. So I go for a closer look.


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The stud come up all the way to the top of the head, so 075, but the good news ends there. Many of the bolts around the saw are stripped (does anyone know the size of these socket head cap screws, m series but I don't know what size or pitch) I hope to be able to oversize tap them or re drill and tap. So now will have a look through the exhaust port. First at the piston and rings.


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I've worked on some homeowner saws before, and now I know what you guys mean by the ease and simplicity of a professional saw. I have never worked on a saw that was intended to have a long life, so I really don't know what I'm looking at here. These rings look really worn, right? Here is a picture of the cylinder (people who use cellphones to take photos of saws ought to be shot). Hope you are able to make something out of this bad pic.


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I'm sure you can't make anything of that, however the cylinder is shiny and smooth and scratch free in all the places that I'm able to see through the port. I'm able to grab the starter cup and turn the crank through multiple revolutions without much resistance. The slower I turn through the compression cycle, the easier it is to turn and I can hear the air squeezing out, so I know I basically have no compression without even pulling out the gauge. So my question at this point is, am I looking at a new cylinder or the whole P&C kit?
 
About a year ago, I purchased 2 051s from the bay that cost about $120 each shipped. I didn't really care if the saws were in bad shape, what I wanted was an inexpensive pro saw to learn on. I've been involved in other projects so this is the first chance I've had to look at them. One of them had my curiosity up, so I was really itching to look at it. See for yourself.


attachment.php


An early model 051, right? Well have a look at this...


attachment.php


If you look carefully, you will see a manual oiler there. Now, I'm wondering if this is an 075 in disguise. So I go for a closer look.


attachment.php


The stud come up all the way to the top of the head, so 075, but the good news ends there. Many of the bolts around the saw are stripped (does anyone know the size of these socket head cap screws, m series but I don't know what size or pitch) I hope to be able to oversize tap them or re drill and tap. So now will have a look through the exhaust port. First at the piston and rings.


attachment.php


I've worked on some homeowner saws before, and now I know what you guys mean by the ease and simplicity of a professional saw. I have never worked on a saw that was intended to have a long life, so I really don't know what I'm looking at here. These rings look really worn, right? Here is a picture of the cylinder (people who use cellphones to take photos of saws ought to be shot). Hope you are able to make something out of this bad pic.


attachment.php


I'm sure you can't make anything of that, however the cylinder is shiny and smooth and scratch free in all the places that I'm able to see through the port. I'm able to grab the starter cup and turn the crank through multiple revolutions without much resistance. The slower I turn through the compression cycle, the easier it is to turn and I can hear the air squeezing out, so I know I basically have no compression without even pulling out the gauge. So my question at this point is, am I looking at a new cylinder or the whole P&C kit?

You really need to clean it up before you dismantle it any more, and block off those ports before you start cleaning it! :msp_wink:
From the pics, it doesn`t look scored, so you may get away with a ring set, but the plating may also be worn out because of fine dust entering the cylinder throu a worn out filter. You will know when you inspect the cylinder inside the port side.
 
I second that. Before any more work is done, do a thorough cleaning. You're gonna create more work for yourself later when you accidentally get all kinds of crud inside the cylinder and case. Go from there.
 
The saw has been re assembled, but it will need to be completely torn down at some point to do the rings. I suppose I can clean each part as it comes off.

This picture shows how dirty it really is.


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Can you tell from the pic what type of ignition that is? It does not have the separate part that mounts inside the cover like the electronic ignition of the 051.
 
I just got an 051, would run with gas sprayed trough the carb. Put a new impulse line in it, (from the carb to the crankcase) checked the other 2 lines (from the carb to the gas tank, and the line in the gas tank) and they looked ok. Put a new carb kit in it to, but still won't pull gas through the carb, any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You will need to rebuild the carb. The diaphragms are likely way too stiff. If the saw was ran with ethanol gas, it is very likely going to be very difficult to get completely clean. If you don't get it thoroughly clean, it will never run right. You have to remove EVERYTHING, including the welch plugs to clean it, and some people use an ultrasonic cleaner. A kit is fairly inexpensive like this one for 9 bucks shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR-...068?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a80dd0aec

Sometimes, I just get a new Chinese carb like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR-...941?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce15415b5
 
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