Stihl MS250 No oil

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Wolfen

ArboristSite Operative
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Jul 1, 2012
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Location
Va beach, Va
Ok guys I have a small major problem with my chain saw not oiling and in the homeowner forum they said come here and ask, so here goes

Its a Stihl MS250 and there is no oil coming out of the port at the bar, the bar is clean the port has no crud in it the worm gear turns the pump and the little tang is there on the rod tank has been cleaned with mix gas oil recovered for use again. That's as far into it as I have been so far, looking down the oil tank with a flash light the filter looks clean and no I haven't blown it out with air yet as I have no access to a compressor today,
is the pump toast? and if it is can somebody please link me to a how to video on what I need to do to replace it?
the only reason I think it might be the pump is I work on cars and that's what usually goes bad when there's no oil


( all joking will be laughed at by me and you guys who make jokes about my total lack of chain saw knowledge )
 
You really need to verify that the oiler drive is engaged into the notch of the clutch bell. Next you need to verify that that drive arm is not just slipping around on that nylon drive its mounted on, many of the 025 and MS 250`s I have worked on for oiling issues were due to slippage at that part.
Verify that the drive is actually turning the gear teeth on the oiler its self.
 
Dump the oil tank, refill halfway with gas, an shake, dump, repeat...

Do this while I go out for another beer........
 
ms250...no oil

Did ya notice he's in Va Beach, Va?...Home of Stihl ain't it?...So close yet so far...
 
You really need to verify that the oiler drive is engaged into the notch of the clutch bell. Next you need to verify that that drive arm is not just slipping around on that nylon drive its mounted on, many of the 025 and MS 250`s I have worked on for oiling issues were due to slippage at that part.
Verify that the drive is actually turning the gear teeth on the oiler its self.

Yes the worm gear IS turning the oil pump gear and there is no play its almost like its new its so good, the little tang on the end of the metal rod is there and it engages the bell like its supposed to

Dump the oil tank, refill halfway with gas, an shake, dump, repeat...

Do this while I go out for another beer........
Did that long before you got your first beer

Did ya notice he's in Va Beach, Va?...Home of Stihl ain't it?...So close yet so far...
And yet I can't go to Stihl for service or to buy parts, they only sell them in two stores here one is Land and Coats the other is Aldridge and Chambers, Both of which are gonna charge me a bundle to fix it :( that's why I'm trying to fix it myself
 
So far I have not come across one that needed the pump pulled and replaced. If all checks out and you are sure it needs a pump then they are just pulled out from the bottom, a machine screw is screwed up into the pump itself and then extracted by just pulling on the machine screw. You need to mark the pump body to register how much of it sticks up above the plastic housing it is inserted into, this will allow the worm drive to align again after the new pump to the same dimension. This mark needs to be transferred and scribed onto the new pump before installing it. The oil ports in the pump need to be aligned with the corresponding holes in the plastic case, then the new pump is just pushed in place, may involve tapping in with a small hammer, tap on the head of the machine screw used to pull it with. I think it takes a #5 or#6 metric machine screw to thread into the pump.
 
Ok if you've never seen one that needs replacement then mine is probably one that doesn't need replacement because YOU have seen WAY more than I have (trust me) So should i try the back flow with high pressure air first?
 
After doing the double dump flush, refill halfway with gas again andrun the saw with the bar/chain/sprocket cover off and watch the oiler hole,
let it run a minute of idling high enough to turn the sprocket, and see if the clogs break up.
 
That I haven't tried yet, But I DID call Aldridge and Chambers this morning, and the pump is about 30 or 40 according to the mechanic I spoke with, so if all else fails......ya know, I'd much rather spend 40 on a 12 year old saw that runs like new than pay 160 for a Homelite at the local hardware stores. I'll try the oi thing after it hits 50 deg here and see what happens.
Also just in case I'm gonna start ripping the old 05 apart just for practice at swaping pumps cause its dead due to ign system and the guy I talked to said if the pumps are the same that I can use the 025 pump.
 
On the bottom of the saw, under the black wrap handle is the fixture that holds the fuel line/filter and is held up to the bottom of the pump
with a small torx screw, if the rinse method doesn't work, then remove this and clean here, it is doubtful that the pump is bad.
 
I practiced on the old 025 and its a lot easier than I thought, I even pulled the oil pump from the 025 and put it back in :) easy job :)

next I followed the instruction from you guys on here and sloshed the oil tank out three times then I filled it half way like instructed and ran her, and guess what guys, gas cam out through THE port and ran down the side of THE saw :):):):):), So I ran until i ran the saw out of gas, now shes air drying and soon I'll have THE bar back on and be back in business.



THANK YOU EVERYBODY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh by the way, the rod on the worm gear DID show signs of wear, so I swapped it with the one from the 025, which shows no wear
 
I've seen sawdust plug the inlet to the pump. Pull the hose of the pump inlet and look REAL close. It is not obvious at first.

Ken
 
Look just forward of the two bar studs on the chainsaw bar pad, you should see a round shiny metal disc with a hole in it, that is a one way valve, lets air into the oil tank but prevents oil from leaking out. Part number 1128 640 9100
I'll look later tonight when I go to swap chains

Just don't.....
Awwww, why not never know it might need cleaning too
 
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