MS362 24/25 inch bar and chain required

[Hermann]

I would appreciate any input on getting the max size bar for my MS362 to take down the occasional 20" plus trees. Usually it wears a 20" which works fine. I see Bailey's has this Oregon Combo:

Bailey's - 24" Oregon Power Match Bar and Chain Combo FOR Stihl 3/8" Pitch

Should I go with this or just go to the dealer and get a Stihl Rollomatic E 25" w/ RSC?

Much difference price-wise, quality?

 

[gcdible1]

Buy a stihl es bar on the bay. you can get a chain for it off another guy for 15bucks. While a sponsor, Bailey's shipping costs kill the deal for me most of the time.
I got mine off a guy on cl shipping and all for around 79-80 bucks.

 

[SawTroll]

A 25" Rollomatic E sounds like a good idea on that saw. It is considerably lighter than a Power-Match or ES.

 

[CATDIESEL]

if you wsh to run a 25" bar on that saw, make it is a skip chain and upgrade the oiler. they do ok at in terms of oiling a 25" bar.

 

[Hermann]

if you wsh to run a 25" bar on that saw, make it is a skip chain and upgrade the oiler. they do ok at in terms of oiling a 25" bar.

Hmm, would the stock oiler work ok for occasional use?

Also open to any other options here..

 

[CATDIESEL]

Hmm, would the stock oiler work ok for occasional use?

Also open to any other options here..

it will work, but you can heat the bar up in a hurry if you are not careful. i would definately use stihl/echo oil. i can tell you first hand, cheapo bar oil will not give you good results with a 25" bar on that saw.

 

[discounthunter]

you do know the bar does not have to be bigger than the tree being cut.

 

[Hermann]

you do know the bar does not have to be bigger than the tree being cut.

sure, but with a few I need to cut I would feel better with not doing the cuts piecemeal, mostly for the last back cut, one tree in particular I need to take down asap has the potential to even hit my house, and others I need to cut could get hung up, so I would feel better with the longer bar.

 

[MPE]

A longer bar is no cure for being in over your head on felling technique, especially when that bar puts you at the far end of the saw's ability to pull said bar.

Honestly, even apart from the technique-versus-equipment angle, 4" of extra bar length is not enough to bother buying a new bar/chains for.

 

[CATDIESEL]

i do not know your experience level, but if you have little, you are more likely to get hung up/pinched with a longer bar on a definately underpowered ms362.

 

[Tzed250]

95% of the falling work east of the Sierra mountains can be done with a 20" bar. The time you really need to worry about speed in a backcut is with a head leaner, and you can bet that if its a critical fall near a dwelling I'm bringing more than a 60cc saw.

 

[lly_duramax]

I am by no means a profesional feller, but I fell most of my trees with a 20'' bar even if the tree is bigger than the bar. I go ahead and make my face cut in the direction I want the tree to fall. Next I will bore in the back cut leaving a good bit of wood holding the tree but enough that my bar sticks out of the other side. Go ahead and cut to your face on this side leaving the amount of hinge that you think is necesary. Next stick your bar in the other side and cut about halfway and put in a wedge if the tree has the potential to set back and pinch your saw. If not cut to your hinge on this side. Now if the tree wants to set back put a wedge in the oposite side and snug them both up. Last clip the holding wood in the back. If the tree does not fall start pounding wedges until it does. If the tree is not leaning in the direction you want it to fall and you know you are going to have to wedge it I usually leave a little more holding wood. Hope this helps.

 

[2dogs]

A 25" Rollomatic E sounds like a good idea on that saw. It is considerably lighter than a Power-Match or ES.

I agree here. My 25" bars are wide nose ES and weigh way more than I like.

To the Op, run what you like. 25" bar will work fine on a MS362. I have quite a few hours on that set up. Real run time.

 

[OlympicYJ]

What 2dogs said. I've ran a 362 with a 28 in some Oregon ash. It pulled it but it wasn't super hot. A 25 should work just fine.

 

[Philip Wheelock]

Stick with the 20" b/c

I'm in the same camp as others in this thread: improved falling technique is the solution rather than a longer bar. A 24-25" bar is 70cc territory. Falling the occasional 30" dia. oak, maple, or similar hardwood is well within the normal capabilities of your current rig with a sharp chain and correct raker depth.

 

[discounthunter]

sure, but with a few I need to cut I would feel better with not doing the cuts piecemeal, mostly for the last back cut, one tree in particular I need to take down asap has the potential to even hit my house, and others I need to cut could get hung up, so I would feel better with the longer bar.

no problem.just be carefull not to over bar your saw,or over step your comfort zone in cutting.a longer bar sometimes seems like a qick ,easy answer ,but can cause more problems very quickly.that said ill run a 24" sometimes but usually run a 20" .(on a sd 120si)

 

[Hermann]

Thanks for all the input, not buying a new bar sounds good to me. My experience level is beyond novice but I am no means a professional, I guess I am at the stage that I know that I don't know everything, I have only used wedges on a couple occasions and have not used plunge cuts to take down trees. I take down trees in the direction that they are leaning or where I figure gravity would take them naturally, unless they are very small, else I seek help.

Since this has turned into a felling technique thread I hope you don't mind if I post a picture of this pine tree that has split about 12 feet up with branches all on one side - in the direction I want to fall it - the only way I would think of doing this.

 

[indiansprings]

A 362 will not have any issue pulling a 25" bar in oak, most people in are area which is prolly 90%+ hardwoods, oak/hickory/walnut get their 391's set up with 25" bars.
I've got plenty of 70cc + saws but have occaisionally used a 25" on my 361 if I had the need and didn't load a 70cc saw in the truck. Use good bar oil and your oiler will have no issue unless you trying to mill. Most people don't realize that with the new dimpled drive links on the newer Stihl chain it provides up to 10% more oil staying in the groove providing more lube and giving you longer chain and bar life. You'll never see the oil fly off the bars like the old saws due to the EPA, so Stihl and other chain mfgs are having to come up with solutions like the dimpled drivers to keep the oil in the groove.
A 20" is what I'd personally run on a 362 most of the time, but running a 25" on it sure isn't going to hurt it. But the guys are right you don't need a bar as big as the tree is to fall it. I've felled crap loads of 25-30"dia tree's with 18 and 20" bars, a 52"dia with a 24", in our country alot of oak and walnut loggers run 20" bars on their 660's.

 

[Philip Wheelock]

Since this has turned into a felling technique thread I hope you don't mind if I post a picture of this pine tree that has split about 12 feet up with branches all on one side - in the direction I want to fall it - the only way I would think of doing this.

Good idea. Post away; several views if possible including surrounding trees, buildings, etc.

 

[2dogs]

I guess I should have added that my MS361 normally wears a 22" bar. I find that to be my preferred length but it is a wide nose ES and like Troll said they are heavy.