80cc's+, reliable, used - Your thoughts

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The 5 cube (really 4.7-5.3 cube/77cc-87cc for me) class is my favorite for saws that I actually use much (although I use my 4.3-4.4ci saws more). The 6-7.5 cube saws are beasts and very fun to run (and damn useful when cutting BIG wood), but I grab the 5 cube saws much more. I've thinned my 6 cube class collection down in favor of building up the 5 cube working stable (although I have added three 6-7 cube saws to the project shelf in the last year).



photobucket-8222-1339312683552.jpg

Not shown is the 288XP project I'm working on now.........or the green 4.7ci and 5.2ci additions........or the other red and yellow 5-5.3 cube projects....

so how close is that dang 288 to running Aaron? ;)
 
so how close is that dang 288 to running Aaron? ;)

An afternoon's work. Gaskets and other parts are here. Just need the time to tear things down, clean everything up, then reassemble. Should happen Sunday.

It already runs BTW. Had it running the day after it arrived.:D
 
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As JJ says,,,,, I am finding this to be so!!! I feel the Antivibe system on that series of orange saws has the competitions 90CC model with rubber buffer isolation beat by a country mile+,,,, I have run the others for so many years as I have access to dealer pricing on my repair parts for that other brand,,,, but in the last few years I have learned to really appreciate that good smooth solid orange power:clap:

I do some milling. :) I started out with a 272xp and gave up on it pretty quickly. I bought a rebuilt 066 and then added a WP BB kit and have milled with it (660 as a backup) mostly since 2008. Recently I decided that the Stihl was lacking in 30"+ wood (milling) so decided to use my 3120xp...bought a 394xp as the backup saw(for bar interchangeability) , and have only used the 394xp!:rock:

(1) The 394xp's oiler is at least adequate of the 42" bar, and the Stihl's seems lacking on even a 32". There is an oiler upgrade kit, or HV oil pump available for the 066/660. I did the kit and am still not thrilled.:msp_unsure:

(2) The 394xp's air filtration, and mine is the low top, is simply amazing!:msp_w00t: The 394 attracts almost no sawdust as compared to the Stihl which acts like a vacuum cleaner. The Stihl HD air cleaner is good, but needs to be checked frequently.

(3) AV? I guess that I'm not terribly sensitive here, but the Husqvarna spring AV is noticeably smoother. There are 2 or 3 versions of Stihl's rubber AV mounts from soft to firm that can be changed to suit the user.

(4) I found my used 394xp considerably stronger/holds more RPM in the cut than does my 066BB, but talking about milling 30"+ wood, so smaller wood may not be noticeable, and particularly if soft wood.

(5) The 066/660 is about 1# lighter, but not an issue on the mill. Realistically, the difference between a 16.5# powerhead and a 17.5# powerhead isn't noticeable, and particularly when you add 28"+ B&C.

(6) The 066/660 has the side chain adjuster which is far more convenient.:clap: I modified my Granberg Alaskan to allow easier adjustment access for the Husqvarnas.

(7) the 066/660 has the inboard clutch which makes changing B&C simpler, BUT.....inboard clutch puts more load on the crank further from the bearing, so is a weaker point. It also introduces more heat into the crank case, so is more apt to overheat a seal. My only failure in this regard has been a clutch when the carrier/spider BROKE. Luckily it didn't damage the threads on the crank.

There is definitely an advantage to having a dedicated milling saw in addition to your felling/bucking saw. It is also advantageous to buy a used saw that has decent parts availability. There are lots of 066/660 and 394/395xps out there, and lots of parts available, so would be my suggestion of saws for milling without resorting to the 7 cube class.
 
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I do some milling. :) I started out with a 272xp and gave up on it pretty quickly. I bought a rebuilt 066 and then added a WP BB kit and have milled with it (660 as a backup) mostly since 2008. Recently I decided that the Stihl was lacking in 30"+ wood (milling) so decided to use my 3120xp...bought a 394xp as the backup saw(for bar interchangeability) , and have only used the 394xp!:rock:

(1) The 394xp's oiler is at least adequate of the 42" bar, and the Stihl's seems lacking on even a 32". There is an oiler upgrade kit, or HV oil pump available for the 066/660. I did the kit and am still not thrilled.:msp_unsure:

(2) The 394xp's air filtration, and mine is the low top, is simply amazing!:msp_w00t: The 394 attracts almost no sawdust as compared to the Stihl which acts like a vacuum cleaner. The Stihl HD air cleaner is good, but needs to be checked frequently.

(3) AV? I guess that I'm not terribly sensitive here, but the Husqvarna spring AV is noticeably smoother. There are 2 or 3 versions of Stihl's rubber AV mounts from soft to firm that can be changed to suit the user.

(4) I found my used 394xp considerably stronger/holds more RPM in the cut than does my 066BB, but talking about milling 30"+ wood, so smaller wood may not be noticeable, and particularly if soft wood.

(5) The 066/660 is about 1# lighter, but not an issue on the mill. Realistically, the difference between a 16.5# powerhead and a 17.5# powerhead isn't noticeable, and particularly when you add 28"+ B&C.

(6) The 066/660 has the side chain adjuster which is far more convenient.:clap: I modified my Granberg Alaskan to allow easier adjustment access for the Husqvarnas.

(7) the 066/660 has the outboard clutch which makes changing B&C simpler, BUT.....inboard clutch puts more load on the crank further from the bearing, so is a weaker point. It also introduces more heat into the crank case, so is more apt to overheat a seal. My only failure in this regard has been a clutch when the carrier/spider BROKE. Luckily it didn't damage the threads on the crank.

There is definitely an advantage to having a dedicated milling saw in addition to your felling/bucking saw. It is also advantageous to buy a used saw that has decent parts availability. There are lots of 066/660 and 394/395xps out there, and lots of parts available, so would be my suggestion of saws for milling without resorting to the 7 cube class.


SawTroll is going to be thrilled the 660 now has an outboard clutch!:wink2:
 
Saws aren't necessary.
Invest your money in bacon or pie.

I like the way you think :msp_thumbsup:

If you are going to mill 30" or wider I would get an 088/880 or the like. I milled 30" ash with a dolmar 7900 and it was slow.

Over 30"+ is a great reallity.

My Jred 910 was used for milling, but that model is long in the tooth. Please be aware that milling is hard on a saw due to the extended cuts, you would be money ahead to find a band mill operator and pay him to do it (and buy a saw anyway that you won't burn up).

Sound advice, thanks for sharing your experience and I see where you're coming from. Honestly, I live 4 miles from a sawmill. :cheers:

From what I've read, chainsaw mills are slow, they stink and they can be a pain. They're not efficient compared to a bandsaw mill or 4 cycle engine powered mill. I know that, but this is something I want to do/try. I have no intentions of recouping $$$. I like chainsaws and you guys are fueling the fire! Apparently, life now starts a 7 CUBES! Ha! I'll work my way up unless funds allow :hmm3grin2orange:
 
for milling im using a ms460 right now ,its doing a good job with a 28 inch bar ,no faster milling than the 660 was ,460 has been ported ,could be why the power feels the same
 
I vote for the 344/395. I might be biased because I own 5 of them right now and I have ported another 3 for other people. A touch heavy, but their AV is better than any other saw I've seen in this size. They have great power stock and are monsters once ported.

I ran a ported 288 on a 32" mill before I got my first 394. It did alright but quickly went down the road once I finished porting the 394.
 
I vote for the 344/395. I might be biased because I own 5 of them right now and I have ported another 3 for other people. A touch heavy, but their AV is better than any other saw I've seen in this size. They have great power stock and are monsters once ported.

I ran a ported 288 on a 32" mill before I got my first 394. It did alright but quickly went down the road once I finished porting the 394.

Is that ported 288 the one now owned by the Duke of Beaver County?:D
 
Is that ported 288 the one now owned by the Duke of Beaver County?:D

No, I built that one for Duke recently... I think he likes it.

The 288 in question went to dave k in Ireland... he hasn't posted since January of last year.
 
If you're milling pine, you don't need as much as these fellas here are telling you. I have milled thousands of board feet with a MS441. Has great filtration, great anti-vibe, easy on the gas, plenty of power and enough of an oiler to get the job done(if you are going to mill stuff bigger than 24" I'd get the Wrap model that comes with HO oiler). I only use veggie oil when I mill as it is biodegradable and less harmful to be covered in and breath for long periods of time.

The M-tronic carb is nice for milling as well, as your tune will change as you get a ways through a long cut. The M-tronic keeps everything right where it should be. That is why I am interested in the 661 M-tronic. It would be nice for hardwood.
 
Get a husqvarna 395xp youll love it!

It's hard to beat the 394/395 series for smooth, good power.


385/390/394/395 are all good. I'd stick with husky for the filtration if you're running it on a mill.
I haven't hardly touched my 394 since I got my 390.....So that's my vote.

:rock:

Life starts at 7 cubes + :msp_smile:




Lee

:laugh: One day!

288 xp , 281, 181

^^^ Probably the most affordable husqvarna named thus far. Last I looked there was an incomplete (but good compression) 181se in the trading post.
 
Fantastic recommendations thus far.. Thank you!

I should have noted that I plan on using an Auxiliary oiler regardless of the saw choice. I've been reading about canola oil and various other substitutes off and on for about a month and it's something to consider. Especially if I mill on someone elses property or near a stream/water source.
 
I do some milling. :) I started out with a 272xp and gave up on it pretty quickly. I bought a rebuilt 066 and then added a WP BB kit and have milled with it (660 as a backup) mostly since 2008. Recently I decided that the Stihl was lacking in 30"+ wood (milling) so decided to use my 3120xp...bought a 394xp as the backup saw(for bar interchangeability) , and have only used the 394xp!:rock:

(1) The 394xp's oiler is at least adequate of the 42" bar, and the Stihl's seems lacking on even a 32". There is an oiler upgrade kit, or HV oil pump available for the 066/660. I did the kit and am still not thrilled.:msp_unsure:

(2) The 394xp's air filtration, and mine is the low top, is simply amazing!:msp_w00t: The 394 attracts almost no sawdust as compared to the Stihl which acts like a vacuum cleaner. The Stihl HD air cleaner is good, but needs to be checked frequently.

(3) AV? I guess that I'm not terribly sensitive here, but the Husqvarna spring AV is noticeably smoother. There are 2 or 3 versions of Stihl's rubber AV mounts from soft to firm that can be changed to suit the user.

(4) I found my used 394xp considerably stronger/holds more RPM in the cut than does my 066BB, but talking about milling 30"+ wood, so smaller wood may not be noticeable, and particularly if soft wood.

(5) The 066/660 is about 1# lighter, but not an issue on the mill. Realistically, the difference between a 16.5# powerhead and a 17.5# powerhead isn't noticeable, and particularly when you add 28"+ B&C.

(6) The 066/660 has the side chain adjuster which is far more convenient.:clap: I modified my Granberg Alaskan to allow easier adjustment access for the Husqvarnas.

(7) the 066/660 has the outboard clutch which makes changing B&C simpler, BUT.....inboard clutch puts more load on the crank further from the bearing, so is a weaker point. It also introduces more heat into the crank case, so is more apt to overheat a seal. My only failure in this regard has been a clutch when the carrier/spider BROKE. Luckily it didn't damage the threads on the crank.

There is definitely an advantage to having a dedicated milling saw in addition to your felling/bucking saw. It is also advantageous to buy a used saw that has decent parts availability. There are lots of 066/660 and 394/395xps out there, and lots of parts available, so would be my suggestion of saws for milling without resorting to the 7 cube class.

I love the first hand experience and details, thank you for that. Everyone absolutely loves the 90cc class Husqvarnas. I'll do my best to listen to you all but we'll see where this goes.

What diameter logs are you planning on milling with the timberjig? Logosol recommends nothing over about 27 in. If you need to go longer, you need to either look at the big Mill, added to the timberjig, or you look at an alaskan. The thing that I have changed in my milling that I really like, is using .050 bar and the stihl picco ripping chain, and you will greatly increase the feed speed of the saw for milling operations, as well as reduce the waste by having a 1/4" kerf. I would look for a 390/395 at least in a newer saw, or if an older one, a SP80/81/800/805/850 Mac, or a 750 Homie, PP655, or some such. All good candidates.

All I have are .050" bars in 16, 20, 24 & 28". I recently tackled a 40ish" dbh pecan with 60cc's (pics in one of my threads). The 562 pulled 28" jgx fine in a cross cut situation, but there's no comparison to that and milling. I'll stay small, probably not more than 12".


I ordered the timberjig and 3 loops of 72 dl ripping chain from Bailey's Friday 4/12/13. I was under the impression the chain was Out Of Stock, but according to my email, it should arrive Friday :blob2: :blob2: :blob2: Thanks for the saw recommendations. I'll keep my eyes open.

I'll definitely report with pics and/or video of the 562 milling these tiny logs. A make-shift auxiliary oiler will be used as well just for drill.
 
What diameter logs are you planning on milling with the timberjig? Logosol recommends nothing over about 27 in. If you need to go longer, you need to either look at the big Mill, added to the timberjig, or you look at an alaskan. The thing that I have changed in my milling that I really like, is using .050 bar and the stihl picco ripping chain, and you will greatly increase the feed speed of the saw for milling operations, as well as reduce the waste by having a 1/4" kerf. I would look for a 390/395 at least in a newer saw, or if an older one, a SP80/81/800/805/850 Mac, or a 750 Homie, PP655, or some such. All good candidates.

I also use a lo-pro (picco) setup on a 36" bar. Remember with that picco chain you have to modify the bar tip and use a different drive sprocket.
 
I also use a lo-pro (picco) setup on a 36" bar. Remember with that picco chain you have to modify the bar tip and use a different drive sprocket.

on my smaller 026 ,i got a pico bar for carpentry work ,it uses a reg 3/8 sprocket
 
If you're milling pine, you don't need as much as these fellas here are telling you. I have milled thousands of board feet with a MS441. Has great filtration, great anti-vibe, easy on the gas, plenty of power and enough of an oiler to get the job done(if you are going to mill stuff bigger than 24" I'd get the Wrap model that comes with HO oiler). I only use veggie oil when I mill as it is biodegradable and less harmful to be covered in and breath for long periods of time.

The M-tronic carb is nice for milling as well, as your tune will change as you get a ways through a long cut. The M-tronic keeps everything right where it should be. That is why I am interested in the 661 M-tronic. It would be nice for hardwood.

Have you ever tried that 2095 on the mill? As I understand that is what that saw was originally designed for?
 
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