Exhaust problem w/splitter..........

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Got a welder? With a Mig or Tig (It can be done with stick but more difficult) you can move it anywhere yould like it to go. I have seen some nice ones done with small motorcycle mufflers. Alot quieter than stock. Supertrapp used to make one that was tuneable.
 
Got a welder? With a Mig or Tig (It can be done with stick but more difficult) you can move it anywhere yould like it to go. I have seen some nice ones done with small motorcycle mufflers. Alot quieter than stock. Supertrapp used to make one that was tuneable.

supertrapp still makes em, expensive tho...
 
Got a welder? With a Mig or Tig (It can be done with stick but more difficult) you can move it anywhere yould like it to go. I have seen some nice ones done with small motorcycle mufflers. Alot quieter than stock. Supertrapp used to make one that was tuneable.

Heh heh! Me, personally, have a welder? No. I've got hand tools and duct tape. :) Hubby has a stick welder but I don't know if he would be able to use it anymore.

I was hoping maybe someone with a similar engine (Briggs 5.5) had made a mod that I could (easily) copy.

I'm getting looped on exhaust fumes lately when I use the splitter. :)

Shari
 
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Drill those rivets out and clock it to point somewhere else and replace the rivets with sheetmetal screws.
 
Without a welder, it would be hard to get something to work. Only thing i can think of is getting some galvanized flex pipe used for car exhaust/HVAC systems, and redirecting the exhaust around the other way. Only issue with that is how to fasten the flex tube to the muffler. With a welder, you can get yourself a small dia elbow from jegs/summit, and route it back. Using a piece of flat steel make a flange and weld it onto the pipe, then mount it to the muffler.
 
Drill those rivets out and clock it to point somewhere else and replace the rivets with sheetmetal screws.

Now that sounds like something I could do.

We've got a small manual sheetmetal break here that I think I know how to operate. Could I also bend up a piece of (galvanized?) metal in something like the shape of an upside down "L" and instead of a 90 degree bend do a 45 degree? Then match screw holes with the current deflector and sandwhich the bent metal and the deflector together. The splitter never leaves the yard so any modification doesn't have to be road worthy.

Shari
 
Here is an off the wall thought. You said it never moves really..convert it to electric. Much quieter, no fumes. Or sell it as is and just buy a new electric splitter.
 
Shari,

I wondered why my Didier splitter was reversed from all the others I've seen pictures of. Mine has the engine on the opposite side. After working on it, I can see where this reversal was done by a previous owner. I had no idea why, until I ran it and realized the exhaust points away from me as you use it.

It's sure a lot more work than a diverter, but at least it explains it.
 
Now that sounds like something I could do.

We've got a small manual sheetmetal break here that I think I know how to operate. Could I also bend up a piece of (galvanized?) metal in something like the shape of an upside down "L" and instead of a 90 degree bend do a 45 degree? Then match screw holes with the current deflector and sandwhich the bent metal and the deflector together. The splitter never leaves the yard so any modification doesn't have to be road worthy.

Shari

Yes you should be able to bend some steel up to work. Rember galvanized is poisonous when it gets hot. It should burn off after a bit. Bend something up, dry fit it over your existing deflector when it looks good screw it on.
 
nathon -

I correct myself - mine does NOT have that diverter. Where would I purchase one?

Shari

any decent small engine repair/outdoor power equipment dealer, should have one if not could order one from briggs,
if not try tractor supply, they might have one in their mower replacment parts section,
or you could buy from somewhere online, like mfgsupply.com, or jackssmallengines.com
briggs makes a few different deflectors, so just make sure you have the model # off the engine. on the older briggs the model,type, and serial numbers were stamped into the engine shroud, not sure about the newer OHV engines tho, maybe its stamped, maybe a sticker...
 
I got a idea...

I don't often suggest something like this (gets me in trouble usually), but I think I got a intek out here (dead) but otherwise the engine should be similar. I could go yank it's muff off, and haul it into the shop and create a custom one that would bend it into a complete 180 and put a muff on the end of it. Tricky part would be to find a way to support it so that vibration didn't rattle it to pieces. Might be workable if you are not in a terrible hurry for it, and could donate a few $$ to my mtn dew addiction.
 
I don't often suggest something like this (gets me in trouble usually), but I think I got a intek out here (dead) but otherwise the engine should be similar. I could go yank it's muff off, and haul it into the shop and create a custom one that would bend it into a complete 180 and put a muff on the end of it. Tricky part would be to find a way to support it so that vibration didn't rattle it to pieces. Might be workable if you are not in a terrible hurry for it, and could donate a few $$ to my mtn dew addiction.

Patrick,

Wow! That is a right kindly offer! I'm going to check around town here this next week though and see what I can find. Apparently this engine model never had a diverter on it as we are the ones who installed this engine.

Right now the exhaust blows right at me. Then there's me, working in a coat with a loose hood, and you can guess where a lot of those exhaust fumes end up. :(

Shari
 
wood splitter fumes

Patrick,

Wow! That is a right kindly offer! I'm going to check around town here this next week though and see what I can find. Apparently this engine model never had a diverter on it as we are the ones who installed this engine.

Right now the exhaust blows right at me. Then there's me, working in a coat with a loose hood, and you can guess where a lot of those exhaust fumes end up. :(

Shari

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Hello Shari,


About your Briggs engine; I am going to assume it has pipe threads going
into the cylinder head-ours do-at least the old ones do anyway and I doubt
it has changed due to the simplicity of it.


As you said the splitter sits and does not move(hopefully it does not bark and whine like the wifes dacshunds
anyway. I see no reason why you cannot break the retainer washer loose and unscrew the muffler and add a very long piece of threaded pipe-black iron pipe to accomplish what you need to do-you could get enough pipe to send the fumes a few feet away or up and away without affecting the engines performance. and attach a new muffler to the end with a black iron coupler.

I use my unit enough that I bought a catalytic converter for it to eliminate the fumes and I am glad I did.
I will be converting it and my generator to burn propane as well as gasoline too.


The nice thing about a propane conversion is the engine will burn cleaner but its a bit noisier to use, I am assuming you use ear muffs or ear plugs..
 
flange fitting

I just checked both briggs here, they are the flange variety.
My suggestion is the best, and really not that complicated. A little tubing, some torch work, and :blob2:
 
Sheri, is there a gasket between the muffler and block, that could be used as a pattern? I could use that to make an adapter so you could add an exhaust pipe to where ever you need to go with it. Chris, you have my #
 
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