echo carb limiters?

[eat a peach]

Hey guys I am back with another question. I have a 355T echo saw and I need to know how to remove limiters without damaging them. I have not looked at them yet but I took it back to the dealer and may have made the mech a little mad.It has run terribly since I came home with it and I am afraid it is too lean. I don't trust them to re-set it but don't want to ruin any warranty. The mech set it without a tach and I watched him and was not impressed at all. The carb is at full out on limiters and is very weak compared to what it was. I just want to richen it up and use a tach. Any help?

 

[rutterb]

I found that using a sheetrock screw works pretty well. Just put it into the center of the l adjuster and turn clockwise gently it will force the retainer plate that holds the limiters out then you can remove them and set the carb the way that your saw likes. It should not do any noticeable damage.

 

[galde]

I haven't looked at that model, but if it is like the other recently made Echos I would pull the limiters with a fine-thread drywall screw that has had the long sharp tip ground back to wherethe end just enters the slot in the cap. The screw will drive the needle in until the cap hits its limit then it will bite into the plastic of the cap. It only needs to bite in sufficiently so that the screw can be turned CCW until the tab on the cap lines up with the slot in the housing around the cap. I use an inspection light to check the alignment of the tab with the slot. The cap can then be pulled out through the slot without any damage to the cap. After making the proper adjustments of the H and L needles, rotate each needle a known amount (like 1/8 turn) CCW before replacing the caps. Then turn the capped needles the 1/8 turn CW to get back to your tuned setting. This gives you the latitude for any later need to richen up. The as-delivered tune is typically on the lean side with the caps at their CCW limit to keep you from going any richer than the factory setting.

 

[eat a peach]

I haven't looked at that model, but if it is like the other recently made Echos I would pull the limiters with a fine-thread drywall screw that has had the long sharp tip ground back to wherethe end just enters the slot in the cap. The screw will drive the needle in until the cap hits its limit then it will bite into the plastic of the cap. It only needs to bite in sufficiently so that the screw can be turned CCW until the tab on the cap lines up with the slot in the housing around the cap. I use an inspection light to check the alignment of the tab with the slot. The cap can then be pulled out through the slot without any damage to the cap. After making the proper adjustments of the H and L needles, rotate each needle a known amount (like 1/8 turn) CCW before replacing the caps. Then turn the capped needles the 1/8 turn CW to get back to your tuned setting. This gives you the latitude for any later need to richen up. The as-delivered tune is typically on the lean side with the caps at their CCW limit to keep you from going any richer than the factory setting.

Thank you my friend

 

[Incomplete]

Warranty is shorter for commercial than HO; first summer I had my cs-341, the limiter came out with a pair of needle nose pliers and the warranty went by-by! This little saw is particular! As in, I am always field tuning, some times two or three times depending on temperature and humidity. Other than it cools very fast and can be a bear to restart while on rope, it's a great product. I even unclipped it from it's lanyard once while pruning an ash and it dropped over 20 feet into the yard, just missing the side walk. Nothing broken and it fired right up.

 

[FergusonTO35]

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