Harman SF260 question

[billveon]

View attachment 314387View attachment 314389Hello All,

I just bought a home that has an existing Harman FS260. Looking at the manual and comparing it to the plumbing in the manual I don't think it is correct. First a brief description of system. Double loop 1 zone, base board. Okay, My expansion tank is plumbed in line with the relief valve and not in the supply line and is the highest thing in the system (tucked up in the floor joist). I do not appear to have a flow control valve at all, I do not have an air scoop, The one way flow valve and pressure reducing valve are in line with my "new water or refill" line which is teed in to my return line and not through the drain plug area like shown in the manual. Do any of these variations matter at all on how this system with function for me this season? Any help would be appreciated as this is my first experience using a boiler and wood burning. Thanks. I will try again to get my pdf's of both my unit and the manufactures uploaded but I couldn't get it to work so far


I GOT THE FILES TO LOAD. YOU CAN SEE WHAT EXACTLY I HAVE COMPARED TO WHAT IS IN MANUAL. Thanks for the input so far guys!!

Bill

 

[hanniedog]

Is the Harmon being used as a stand alone unit or hooked to another boiler? I am running a Harmon 360 along with a propane boiler. The auto fill valve is hooked into the propane return line with an expansion tank and auto bleeder. There is also an expansion tank and bleeder by the wood boiler. They are in the supply side. Been running the system for going on 7 yrs and have had no problems with it.

 

[hanniedog]

The main thing that you need to worry about is the boiler getting to hot. My unit sits in the garage and has a water to air coil in the fuel oil heater for the garage. If the Harmon gets to 210 the fuel oil fan comes on drawing the temp down.

 

[leon]

Sf260

Curious,

Is the Boiler in the basement?

How many bleeders are located at the vertical elbows???????

Is the hot water coil hooked up?

It should have an air scoop

Are you saying you have a backflow preventer and not a check valve or
are saying you have a check valve?

You need a backflow preventer to be up to plumbing code do you have one?

The pop off valve should be at the top of the boiler plumbing-it is on my wood boiler.

Do you have a water fill ball valve from the fresh water to the boiler/backflow preventer/check valve?

Normally they also have a fast fill valve that bypasses the pressure regulator
if you need to refill the boiler quickly to save time as well.

 

[billveon]

Is the Harmon being used as a stand alone unit or hooked to another boiler? I am running a Harmon 360 along with a propane boiler. The auto fill valve is hooked into the propane return line with an expansion tank and auto bleeder. There is also an expansion tank and bleeder by the wood boiler. They are in the supply side. Been running the system for going on 7 yrs and have had no problems with it.

Yes, It is a stand alone system. My auto fill valve along with one way check valve is teed in to the return line.

 

[billveon]

Curious,

Is the Boiler in the basement?

How many bleeders are located at the vertical elbows???????

Is the hot water coil hooked up?

It should have an air scoop

Are you saying you have a backflow preventer and not a check valve or
are saying you have a check valve?

You need a backflow preventer to be up to plumbing code do you have one?

The pop off valve should be at the top of the boiler plumbing-it is on my wood boiler.

Do you have a water fill ball valve from the fresh water to the boiler/backflow preventer/check valve?

Normally they also have a fast fill valve that bypasses the pressure regulator
if you need to refill the boiler quickly to save time as well.

Yes, boiler is in the basement.

No bleeders in the vertical elbows there, but there is a bleeder at the top of a radiator unit in the basement and at the end of every baseboard unit.

No water coil for domestic water.

No air scoop (where would I install the air scoop?

I have a check valve right after the auto fill valve teed in to the return line.

Yes the pop off valve is at the top of the boiler but, it has been moved slightly, it goes like this...boiler, elbow, 6"straight, elbow up, tee, off of tee going horizontal is the pop off valve, going vertical is about 5' line to the expansion tank. That is the part that seems wrong to me. I feel like the e tank should be teed in to the supply line to function correctly. I did run the unit the other night to see how all would function. I set my aquastat at 180˚, the auto damper worked fine, the unit did build pressure at about 140˚, got to about 25+, I released the pop valve till I saw 15psi and it never climbed after that. water got to about 190˚. I think it "works" but I want it to work efficiently as possible. Thanks.

 

[billveon]

View attachment 314386

Hello All,

I just bought a home that has an existing Harman FS260. Looking at the manual and comparing it to the plumbing in the manual I don't think it is correct. First a brief description of system. Double loop 1 zone, base board. Okay, My expansion tank is plumbed in line with the relief valve and not in the supply line and is the highest thing in the system (tucked up in the floor joist). I do not appear to have a flow control valve at all, I do not have an air scoop, The one way flow valve and pressure reducing valve are in line with my "new water or refill" line which is teed in to my return line and not through the drain plug area like shown in the manual. Do any of these variations matter at all on how this system with function for me this season? Any help would be appreciated as this is my first experience using a boiler and wood burning. Thanks. I will try again to get my pdf's of both my unit and the manufactures uploaded but I couldn't get it to work so far

Bill