Husky 394XP problems

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shanedut

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I bought 2 394xp saws and 4 bars with about 8-9 chains for cheap. The saws havent run in awhile. One saw will start run ok at wide open throttle but will not idle dies as soon as you let off the throttle. This same saw with a spare carb i have runs wide open and really high rpms guessing on the limiter will not idle down or slow down at all. Now i havent checked the vacuum on this saw but wouldnt surprise me that it needs seals. The compression is over 150psi now i've cleaned the carbs taken them apart but think they may need a rebuild kit, the diaphrams dont seam stiff or bad but may not hurt to do a kit anyways. The other option is to throw the carb and buy new. Now the other saw does the same thing but with this one when i checked compression it is low down to 135-140 now this is not a good tester either but as its just a rubber plug you just push into the spark plug hole. The second saw i have not checked out real well it may just be a bad decompression plug. Any other advise would be great on these saws. The one saw may be in for a full rebuild is it worth doing the 395cylinder upgrade on it?
 
I would use the 394 cylinder with a new piston if you want to rebuild it. If you go oem on the 395 conversion you'll be in it for $400. You'll need the cylinder kit, carb, and intake.
 
Pretty much thought of just doing the new 394 slug. The one that has good compression is the one that has me concerned as i'm puzzled why it runs but wont idle. To me seems like an air leak but not sure. I just want to get the one that doesnt need as much work fixed up then i'll work on the other one.
 
Just a little up date I tore the saws both down and did vacuum tests. Both have bad crank seals the one was really bad the other was marginal but still leaked. I orded new seals for both saws. On closer inspection of the carbs 2 of them were put together wrong they were not hooked into the needle tab like they were supposed to be. One of the 3 carbs was bad i'm guessing the needle seat is bad probably why I was given 3 carbs with the saws. The one saw needs a new piston and rings as the compression was only at 130psi, when I tore that saw apart all the way I noticed the cylinder looks fine. I see no scoring or damage to it so I will order a new oem piston and rings and gasket kit.

On a side note when both saws are torn down I noticed one has a green ignition and the other has a black ignition is there any difference?
 
Sounds about right, if a saw will run and not idle down its almost always an air leak. At least the topend wasn't toast when you got them.

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I never tried to run them really a few pulls they fired and died. The gas that was in them was bad and the guy said he hadn't used them for 6 years. I pretty much knew new seals were in order.
 
Plastic block between carb and cylinder tend to crack and leak. Might take a look.
 
I read those were problems on theses saws, and seeing how I had the saws all apart and washed up I looked them over real good. I didn't notice any cracks but once I get them running I will make sure I don't have any leaks. I do know that the gaskets may not be sealing that well as I could see gas pouring out the gasket when the needle on the carb stuck open. Thanks for any and all your info guys
 
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