my OWB build

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So far this OWB is working great. I've spent a few more dollars on it than expected, but the quality of heat is worth it. The first month of heating with it saved me around $50. Not as much as I had hoped, but I'm still tweaking it. I turned my downstairs temperature up, causing a lot of heat to rise to the second floor and satisfying the upstairs thermostat, so there will be a savings there. I also connected my heat exchanger for the domestic hot water. I did this after the meter was read so I would have a more accurate number for my power savings. My wife mentioned how the hot water last longer, so if she is happy I'm happy. I have burnt a lot more wood than I had hoped too, but it was partially my fault. I was letting my water pump run constantly, trying to maintain a constant heat on top and bottom of my OWB. I just today installed a second thermostat to control the water pump and circulating fan, which should keep my water temperature up on my OWB. It will also make sure I have heat in my house if the fire goes out. I wired it so that if my fire goes out the heat pump will come on, then my gas back up heat. One other thing I did to save wood worth mentioning is I put a downward 90 inside my fire box on the flue pipe. It keeps so much heat from going out of the flue.
And thanks for all the compliments guys!
 
I really like your set up! Is this a pressurized system? I didn't see a vent to atmosphere or a pressure relief valve. It may be there and I missed it. I think the general consensus is open to air for home built units as pressure vessels take lot's of engineering and safety precautions. I'm a big fan of re purposing items and doing it yourself, just want it to be safe for ya.
dave
 
I really like your set up! Is this a pressurized system? I didn't see a vent to atmosphere or a pressure relief valve. It may be there and I missed it. I think the general consensus is open to air for home built units as pressure vessels take lot's of engineering and safety precautions. I'm a big fan of re purposing items and doing it yourself, just want it to be safe for ya.
dave

It is non pressurized. On top there is a two inch hole and a six inch hole open to atmosphere. I welded in a extra piece I had left over for the flue on top to be a large vent incase it ever runs away and over pressurizes.
 
a little over a year with this heater and its working great. I have made a few changes. I added another cabinet to mount a larger fan. The other fan just didn't have the CFM to make a good fire. I also changed my inside thermostat to a wifi enabled Honeywell. My current heat pump with gas back up is set up to have the gas to come on at <30*F. We had a cold day and I had to work late letting the wood stove go out. When I came home the house temperature had fallen to 62*F. After investigating I realized the gas pack couldn't start because the wood stove thermostat had the circulating fan running and the pilot couldn't ignite. Now I can check it on my phone and if the temperature is low I can turn off the wood stove thermostat.
I'm still debating trying to make a gasifier out of it. I hate to mess up a good thing!
 
I really like your set up. I have a stove built to almost the same design except my two tanks were a little bigger and I ran my flue out the top. I wish I would have run across your build thread last year when i was designing mine because I might have changed my flue design to follow yours. Mine, like I said runs straight up so it is only in contact with the water for 3 inches or so and is my biggest source of inefficiency.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top