394xp opinions

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Venomvpr900

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Have a chance to get a non running 394xp. How where these saws? What's a good price on a non runner that's in average condition, let's assume the p and c is good? I'm a stihl guy but also a good deal guy just looking for input from guys that have ran the saw. Thanks!!
 
I wouldn't pay anymore then $200 but thats only because you can get good runners here for $300. Go for it and flip it. If you plan to run it i recommend upgrading it to an HD air filter if it hasn't already been upgraded as the low top rely's on the cylinder cover and AF cover to seal properly. I have seen to many 394's with saw dust inside the intake to be comfortable running the low top filter. I have seen some with cracked intake blocks also which will be noticed right away because everyone i've worked on with a cracked block was a pig to start when hot. They are a good saw though. Don't let these things bother you as i have worked on a ton of them and it is rare. I'm not saying they all crack or will crack. Just saying a couple i have worked on were cracked.
 
I'm sure you would check it, but make sure it has spark, cause the coils tend to be something that dies on them. Its $80+ if it needs one. I almost had to get one myself.
 
Good saw.....I'd replace the intake block right off the bat so you know you're good to go, regardless of what the current one looks like.

They are heavy. Pretty much a cinder block with handles, but you won't be wanting for stump power.
 
Why? Both are 90cc saws. Later 066's and 660's stock are a joke.
The 394 is a torque monster and yes the early 066 had torque but not anything like the 394 has. The 385 IMO is close to the same torque as an early 066 but i feel it still has a little more. Saws of the same CC can be entirely different when it comes to the power they make and most of the people on AS should know that after a few weeks of reading. Feeling it for yourself is a better bet so go try all the saws you can.
 
I wouldn't replace the intake block just for the hell of it. An intake block isn't a wear and tear item. If it's good i'd run it. It's not like there will be any less chances of it cracking just cause you put a new one on there. Why spend money you don't need to on a saw you already got a good deal on. If you get it that is.
 
Just know that when inspecting the intake block cracks can be in some tricky places. When i work on a 394 i inspect the block best i can then run it. If it doesn't act up when at operating temps i just continue to run it. A crack is rarely noticable when a saw is cold. When the saw is warm a crack in the block will swell making it larger which will make the saw run weird most of the time. Yer worst enemy will be a black intake block as it is way harder to see a crack. The tan ones on the husky's are actually quite easy to spot a crack. Don't mean to put it in your head that your block is cracked because it more then likely is good to go. It is just a part to check on these saws.
 
I paid more (for my 394) than what has been mentioned, but the saw came from a reputable member here and was in known good condition. It was worth the piece of mind vs taking a gamble :) They make great torque in stock condition! If you don't have to carry it long distances and you are in good health, the weight shouldn't be an issue. This summer I had to pack it into the woods a good ways and I felt it lol. This is where lightweight bars make life easier!
 

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