Started my splitter build

[Eric K]

View from the drivers seat. The shiny spot on beam is where I had to remove a high spot from weld warp.

 

[Eric K]

Log lift from front.

 

[nathon918]

just something to think about,
the log lift mounts, having it the way it is now, can cause the holes/pins to wear rather fast.
you may want to think about adding a bushing to the lift mount, and also the "arm" (something like you added to your push plate for the pin) just gives the pin more surface area to wear on, would also be a good idea to drill em for grease fittings...
everything that moves on mine is greaseable (lift mounts/cylinder mounts, push plate, front leg, table mount and lock) the lift would be the most important to me to be greaseable since it gets used alot...

 

[Eric K]

nathon good point. The pins that the log lift will pivot on are 3/4" and they go thru a 954 alloy bronze sleeve that is press fit. There are 2 sleeves per pivot point. The grease zirk is tapped into end of pin and cross drilled center of each sleeve. I put spiral grease grooves in each sleeve. My thoughts are the bronze is sacraficial and will need to be replaced periodically. The sleeves are common size and cheap couple bucks a piece. Better than rebuilding mounting points down the road. The cylinder mounts are done the same way except only 2 sleeves and the pins are 1". I didn't put grease fittings on my push block because I was thinking it would make a mess on me and wood. LOL You put them on you push block how is the grease situation on beam for you? I can add them easy enough. The cross pins on other 2 cylinders have grease fittings.

 

[nathon918]

i only grease the bottom of the slide, (under side of the beam) since the "keepers" are only 1-1/2" wide there isnt much contact area with the beam, so i just grease there to keep from wearing the ends of the flange/keepers...
nice setup for the lift mounts...
my mount bracket is a clevis type just out of A-36, the lift arms have bushings out of 4130 chromoly 3/8"wall DOM tube reamed to 1" ID, with a softer 1" 1018 pin also grooved for grease, with grease through the end of the pin. my pins are attached to the clevis bracket to keep from spinning in the bracket, so idealy only the pins should wear, then just make new ones when they get sloppy.

 

[jthornton]

i only grease the bottom of the slide, (under side of the beam) since the "keepers" are only 1-1/2" wide there isn't much contact area with the beam, so i just grease there to keep from wearing the ends of the flange/keepers...
nice setup for the lift mounts...
my mount bracket is a clevis type just out of A-36, the lift arms have bushings out of 4130 chromoly 3/8"wall DOM tube reamed to 1" ID, with a softer 1" 1018 pin also grooved for grease, with grease through the end of the pin. my pins are attached to the clevis bracket to keep from spinning in the bracket, so ideally only the pins should wear, then just make new ones when they get sloppy.

Very nice work!

JT

 

[Eric K]

Nic job on your log lift nathon. I almost went with hard sleeve and replace pins route also. Either way works good to protect high use pivots. My pin will be held in place same as yours. Will add grease to bottom of keepers.

 

[Eric K]

Thanks Jt

 

[Eric K]

Going to get back to work on my splitter. Maple syrup season is over so I will have time again. I am to the point of building the hydraulic tank. What do you all think of putting the return weld bung down near the bottom of the tank. I have seen them at or near the top but then use a pipe to take it down near the bottom to prevent foaming. Is one way better than the other? Inside the tank I plan on welding in a diffuser to slow the returning fluid down and there will be a baffle between return and suction. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[jthornton]

I took a bit of angle and drilled some holes near the bottom with about twice the area of the return to slow down the velocity of the fluid and put the holes near the bottom. A photo is worth a 1000 words...

I need to get back to work on my splitter and finish the lift...
JT

 

[Eric K]

Thanks for the pic. I am making mine very similar.

 

[triptester]

The benefit of the return at the top of the tank is that the filter can be changed with minimal fluid loss.

 

[shutup-n-cut]

looking very nice. You have some nice fabrication skills and nice looking welds.
Uncle Mustache would be jealous , LOL

 

[jthornton]

A couple of things I learned making the tank, make sure you remove the mill scale before welding and leave a 1/4" ledge to weld to on the tank sides as 3/16" is cutting it too close.

JT

 

[Eric K]

Built in diffuser for return lines.

Holes for 1 1/4" weld in bungs.

Hole for 3" suction strainer.

 

[Eric K]

Holes for fluid level and temp.

Baffle down the center. Return and suction are on same end of tank with the baffle between.

Removable inspection cover.

 

[Eric K]

Tank is all tacked up ready to weld.

 

[Eric K]

Bosses welded on to tie adjustable wedge post to main wedge.

Tie plate made and installed.

Platform for valves, return manifold, filter bracket, and hydraulic tank.

 

[Eric K]

Trailer jack wheel installed.

 

[jthornton]

That's looking awesome!

JT