026 Carburetor Rebuild - The Saga Continues

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I agree, this likely boils down to one or maybe two problems, so I'm not going crazy before I get that Mityvac unit and run some diagnostics. And yes, when I rebuilt the carb I did check the metering lever, twice in fact, and even adjusted the arm. It's got a brand new carb in it now. This saw is way past the point of being a cost effective fix... Well, not way past. But it's gonna be a learning project for me at any rate.
 
2 carbs and it's still flooding?

Read the owners manual for the correct starting procedure. And make sure the mcl is staying in high idle after it pops (on full choke) and not slipping to the run position.
 
If' it's got spark, compression and fuel and it started and ran for a while that leaves operator error in my mind. Unless the mcl isn't working right or the timing is off.
 
Here is how I would approach this saw if it were mine.

1) I do not believe your problem is the carb. If the spark plug is not throwing a fat blue spark, I would replace the coil.

2) Your vac tester will not come with a plug to seal the intake hole behind the carb. I use a flat plate with a piece of inner tube behind the plate to seal the intake or a rubber stopper trimmed to fit. Your exhaust port on the cylinder must be sealed as well. This can be done with a piece of inner tube behind the muffler, then tighten the screws. Plug the van gun into the impulse port on the saw frame where the carb impulse line plugs in. Pump the saw down tp approx -7 psi. If the saw does not hold and leaks off before 10-15 seconds have passed, set the vac gun on pressure and pump the saw up to +7-10 psi and dunk the entire saw in a sink or tub of water and watch for bubbles. The bubbles willl most likely indicate the leak point.

3) Regardless of the vac test, I think I would take the saw down to the level of removing the cylinder. This is a relatively easy task mechanically on the 026 and you will learn a lot that will be helpful later. This will also give you the opportunity to closely inspect all rubber lines and boots, you can replace your cylinder gasket . Pull the flywheel and check if you have a broken flywheel key and check the gap between the magnets and coil contacts. At 125 lbs compression, that is runnable but that saw should throw 140-160 stock. You can replace the rings when you have the cylinder off and clean up the piston,check for skirt wear, clean up the cylinder and check for scoring. This will require a ring compressor and a set can be had cheaply($10) from site sponsors and auto parts houses. Remember your clutch is left hand thread.

4) Take advantage of this opportunity make the saw a useful learning experience. They can be frustrating at times but usually good solid diagnostic procedures will lead you to the problem. The 026 is the best training saw out there.
ur mity vac kit will come with a yellow plug that will percectly seal the intake boot after the carb is off
 
Now it's backfiring. Is it really backfiring or just spitting excess fuel back out the carb ? If it is a true backfire, IMHO that's a timing issue. I think the saw sheared a flywheel key. There are a bunch of reasons to strip that saw down to basic components just to see if the rubber goods may warrant replacement to avoid any future problems. He has already bought a new carb which didn't solve what was diagnosed as a fuel problem...even though the saw didn't fire after mix was sprayed in the carb or plug hole. He could pull the flywheel in 2 minutes and eliminate that as one reason the saw is not firing. This whole problem is further confused by low compression. He says he has a bad gauge...what if it reads high and the comp is really 100 psi? What I am getting at is it is impossible to accurately diagnose the problem under the current info...maybe the vac/pressure test will solve the mystery.
 
I had the same issues on an 034 carb rebuilt with a factory rebuild kit I ended up replacing the carb ran like a champ
 
I ended up here on AS due to a WT194 carb issue on an 026. Seven cleanings later, it was a champ.

Compression and a vac/pressure test will tell it all, for the number when accurate don't lie. Vac and pressure test your line, tank vent and carb too, the whole ordeal will take about 10 minutes to do. Then some troubleshooting has been done.
 
The choke flap is in the air cleaner and can give starting and runnng problems. Make sure it is truly closing on start up or it won't draw up fuel. If the spring is weak it can allow the choke to partially close when running and flood the engine.
This may not be your problem but some of your symptoms sound like it.
 
The choke flap is in the air cleaner and can give starting and runnng problems. Make sure it is truly closing on start up or it won't draw up fuel. If the spring is weak it can allow the choke to partially close when running and flood the engine.
This may not be your problem but some of your symptoms sound like it.

Good tip...I have several 026s and one is not running right. I will check that this weekend. Thanks.

Bardo...is it possible to buy replacement springs or do you replace the whole filter?!
 
I am guessing choke flap in air filter may be warped or not sealing off for some other reason. When you sprayed fuel into carb, may have sprayed too much and flooded saw. That or the flywheel key is sheered. I've got a couple 026's that have the same intermittent problems with new carbs and both pass vac/pressure test. I think one is fine now but have not dug into the other and figured it out. Anxious to see what the fix will be.
 
Splattergunning at the problem is not going to find it easily.
You have started with the fuel.
Set the new carb up to stock specs.
Put NEW fuel hose /filter And impulse hose. Use new intake hose and check the clamps/attaching hardware.
Now you have a solid fuel system. If the problem is not fixed it is not fuel related.

Now to the spark.
New good plug.
Check the wire, no nicks etc.
Is coil clean and gap adjusted?
Check the timing
Pull the flywheel and check key etc.........

See where this is going
Check each system start to finish then you know that system is not your issue.

Before jumping to conclusions stand back and look. The simple stuff is often overlooked.
Like is the kill switch working properly. Pinched wires, Is the spark plug tight as well as the lead.

Jumping from fuel to fire to seals back to fuel is not productive.

Inhale fuel, squeeze, fire and fart exhaust, repeat. It's just a motor, relax and find what is and what is not right.
 
Bilge Rat, I've been in Des Moines all day and had no time to reply to all this shop talk. Your post is exactly what I was going to say in less words. This is just an engine. I likely have one or two problems. We'll eliminate them one by one. Get my Mityvac pump tomorrow and picked up my impulse line at the dealer on the way to Iowa today. Have a new boot coming. Gonna redo all the rubber. Picked up a fuel filter yesterday at my Husky dealer of all places (they're cheaper on Stihl parts than the Stihl dealer - when they have them.). Will test the saw tomorrow. Have a used coil sittin around somewhere that I know works. We will eliminate this one step at a time, starting with new fuel fittings, testing, electrical, mechanical, and so forth. I'm determined to get this saw running and it's a good excuse to buy a few tools. Got to go to Harbor Freight and pick up a few things I wanted/needed while my mother shopped for furniture. Picked up a six pack for the head scratching moments I'm likely to encounter. Was a pleasant and productive trip, should yield good results. Sound like a plan guys? And btw, thanks for all the tips. Air filter choke closes fully. That had been suggested to me in an earlier thread but I'm gonna try to condense all my findings to this thread now. As for operator error, always possible but too many variables have been changed and I can reproduce a cranking saw with old carb in it and metering lever set to certain height, so let's look elsewhere for now. Thanks all. Peace and bar grease.
 
It was kinda a funny story when I stopped by my Stihl dealer yesterday to grab that impulse line. He asked it the 026 I was working on was mine or someone else's because he had a customer call about an 026 with a carb problem. Well, I didn't feel like that's any of his business, but decided to reassure him that I'm not stealing any of his customers - yet. I told him it was my personal saw. He suddenly became a lot friendlier and decided to stop eating his lunch to go dig for the impulse line in the new shipment they had just received. I'm surprised they would be that hard up for business to care, but they are located in one of the smaller towns in my county. He's always treated me good over the phone but yesterday was the first time I met him in person in quite a few years as my dad normally picks up my parts and oil while he's working up there. I just want to be on good terms with all my dealers and the Husky and Dolmar dealer know me best. I'm sure they would rather get their hands on my saws than just order parts for me but that's how it's got to be for me. I don't know what kind of jacked up hourly labor rates they charge because I've never used that portion of their services. I highly recommend to everyone reading this to try working on their own saw provided they have the same time to cash ratio or similar to what I do. Still waiting on that Mityvac to show up anytime now. Happy cutting all!
 
I fix problems all day long. Boilers, pneumatic driven presses, 3 phase commercial washers, drycleaning machine with HVAC cooling, farm equipment and all the stuff around the house.

Have a garage full of tools but the best tool you have is your eyes, ears, and touch.
Stand back and look then up close. wiggling wires and hoses will find loose/broken lines and connections.
Many times a problem is caused by a simple loose wire/connection or a sticking part that should move freely.

Calmly look don't be in a hurry and think about what that widget does and how it affects the other stuff.

If you get stuck/frustrated walk somewhere away from the saw then stomp, throw things, cuss etc. this will relieve tension and clear your mind.
Walk back to the saw, many times the problem can now be seen.
This works, i don't know why but it does.
 

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