Friction hitches. Which one to use for different situations

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Here are a couple of vids that you may find useful.
I find the VT smoothest and least wear on the i2i and the distel most compact.



 
Yoyoman, your vt in your video is a french tresse. The difference is that the top side should cross under the bottom line on the second to last cross. It doesn't seem like much but it is a lot safer IMO.
Got ya, I don't see much difference and at times I vary the braids depending on the wear and memory of the cord.
 
And all this time I thought VT stood for Valdotain Tresse! Guess I'll have to brush up my French.
I learned and used the taunt line hitch while in the Navy but never considered using it while climbing.
I worked out what much later became known as blakes hitch and have been using it since the late sixties. I still use it a lot, but mostly use the same VT shown in the video.
 
I use a blakes on my climb line and a schwabisch with my eye to eye cords. both are very predictable and trustworthy. I've tried and used a bunch more but I like these 2 for their simplicity.
 
Ya i like to use the blakes hitch most of the time but when i used 8.4 climbing rope the hitch was melted in half. I switched to a sterling 10 mill and i use a rappelling device now
 
Do you think it varys between arborist rope and climbing rope or is it the same?

Yes. It will still work but what type of rope as well as what the rope is made of and its core to sheath ratio, will affect how good (or bad) it grips. Different tech cords for the hitches are not identical either. Often in my experience a certain climb rope and a certain hitch cord will not work real well. You need to find a hitch cord that works reliably for the specific climb ropes you use.
 
Your question show you don't understand enough about rope and hitches to ask a good question on the subject.

But wait, there's more... http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lightest-rope.254443/#post-4899982

I dont use arborist rope. I use rock climbing dynamic rope and it works just as well. You should try the Sterling evolution kosmos rope. Its 10 mm i think rated 8.8 kn and dosent have much give so when i do unsecured footlocking it dosent let me bounce on the rope unless i fall.
:eek:
 
Are you using a friction hitch to rappel down a single line?

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk
 

Is this for real? Using dynamic rock climbing lines is a bad idea. Honestly i can see no logical or sound reason why you would risk your life with such a thin low rated rope, when for similar cash you could have a real arborist climb line? :confused::eek:o_O
It is clear from your post in this other thread above that you have already been using it. You clearly have no idea of the physics involved. These are not meant for tree work and do not have the required properties for safe and effective tree work. Have you ever had any credible tree climbing training? One of the first things we were told was buy the proper ropes and dont buy dynamic rock climbing ropes even if it is a great price. A rock climbing rope is basically not designed to be used in the way you are using it. When tying a blakes it is not designed to cope with the heat of being used as the rope and the friction hitch. Generally speaking the smaller the diameter the WORSE it will cope with the heat from the hitch.

8.8 KNs? Are you sane buddy? You do realise that your weight falling over 1 meter and coming to a dead stop on the rope can generate more than 10 times your weight in impact force? So the 8.8 Kns impact rating is likely gone right there.
You should not be putting your life on anything less than 23KN. Anywhere in the system. As i said have you had tree climbing training?

Ya i like to use the blakes hitch most of the time but when i used 8.4 climbing rope the hitch was melted in half. I switched to a sterling 10 mill and i use a rappelling device now

8.4? You mean an 8.4 mm rope for the life line? Yikes! :eek: I use stuff bigger than that for my prussics and eye to eyes! ;) No real surprise that the hitch melted when using such a small diameter line. Honestly buddy what did you expect? I am honestly curious. You are darn lucky you were not injured. I have seen climbers take a fall from a melted hitch. If you had major dramas like this, with a thin rock climbing rope why go and buy another? Wouldn't it have made you think "maybe i should get a tree climbing rope seeing as i am tree climbing?" I will say again. The smaller the diameter generally the less well it deals with heat. Buy a proper tree climbing rope of a sensible diameter (11mm to 12.7mm) and these problems should be gone. These ropes are designed to deal better with heating as they are designed to be used with a blakes and other friction hitches. Thin dynamic rock ropes generally are not constructed the same to deal with this.

No. I use DdRT with a blakes hitch. When i come down i use a rappelling device. The petzl verso to be specific

If you are using a blakes you are using the tail of the main line to tie the hitch. Like Masterblaster's photo. You could try a taught-line but it is seriously more ancient than the blakes. You can tie a stopper knotted prussic with the tail of your line also. Honestly there are not many decent hitches that use the tail of the rope as the hitch, that work all that much better than a blakes. It is old school but it works well. If you are melting your rope at the hitch maybe go for a split tail system so you are not damaging and having to cut your climb rope shorter. Look into a basic prussic cord system or even a DMM hitch climber setup.

If the only advice you take is this i will be happy: STOP USING CRAPPY THIN ROCK CLIMBING LINES AND BUY A REAL TREE CLIMBING ROPE!! Please go and take some tree climbing lessons.
 
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