serious question on can I modify a wild thing? read my reason before cussing me

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old biker

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I used to be very heavy into playing with chainsaws, mostly cutting firewood, & I still own a very sizeable collection of older, decent, quality saws. probably a dozen old Homelite supper XL, 925, several Huskys, 1 with a 100cc kit, a couple Stihls, I know I have over 50 older saws. so I am not a novice, but a guy with arm problems

I had to drop out of scene over 10 years ago due to problems with my left arm, if I run a big saw more than a couple of minutes my arm will lock up & pull against my chest, usually under 1 tank of fuel, & I almost cant pull it down with my other hand. it may take anywhere from a few min to several hours to get my arm back to normal & will hurt for days. so for the last 10 or so years I just used 1 of 2 saws around the house & not had any real problems, both of which are very light, 1 is the Poulan Wild Thing, the other is an Echo es3000 if I remember right, but due to the top handle, I find it awakward to do anything more than limbing with it, so it is put away, & only use the wild thing as needed around the house. I have used the wild thing through several tanks in same afternoon without problems, not sure if I will have problems if I try to do alot of cutting, I have had to use a big saw when a big tree fell & I suffered for using it

here is whats going on, I own some land that now my wife wants me to get cleared, so we can go enjoy it, I have let it grow over the last 10 years, but I kept it up for close to 30 before that, & I am shaking thinking of using the heavy saws with my arm, but I also know what the junk wild thing will do, or not do. what can I do?

I am not opposed to buying another saw, but it has to be very close in weight to the wild thing, & easy on vibrations, or what can I do to modify this, or buy another one to modify. I have a big project ahead of me, & I am looking at my options.
 
OB, not sure if this will help but a stroke really fugged up my left arm so a very lightweight saw is my friend most of the time so I bought on of these.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/in-tree-saws/ms192tce/
I probably could make better time with a pet beaver or a hatchet but at least I'm out in the woods.

Stroke killed my riding forever and I miss "My Baby"

 
ok that saw is very close to my Echo 3000 & the top handle doesnt give me the leverage, while a conventional saw will. & I would love to be able to even use my Still 026, but even that causes me trouble.

Very nice old shovel, 66 - 69?

I still ride, I have an old flatty 45, an old pan, 2 shovels, and a BSA chopper, & my current ride is a 2007 street bob

& believe it or not I dont have problems running a weedeater, as it is suspended on a shoulder strap, & I run primarily with my right hand & use my left as a steady
 
Sorry to here the 026 gives ya problems. My stupid stroke has caused me to get kinda creative in order to get things done around our 68 acres. Have you done any physical therapy ?

"Baby" is a 67 FL. pretty much original except for the exhaust, seat, carb, voltage reg. and pipes. Threw the Bendix in the trash and put on a late CV. Smoooooooth. No flat spots. LOL

 
I seen someone use a wild thing once. I noticed it didn't have felling spikes on it. I would at least get a saw that has those. You can dig in and pull up on the rear handle to make the cut with your right hand . You can do a muffler mod on small saws to get some more power. Basically take the muffler off and drill a couple holes in it. Blow out the metal filings. Then richen up the H screw on the carb. You can gain about 25% more power. Search muffler mod on wild thing and I'm sure there a thread on it.
 
never done any physical therapy, nor seen a doctor about it, it only gives me problems when running a chainsaw. I think its the weight & vibration, one thing I have not tried is to use a left handed saw, only seen a few, & they were vintage saws, but would reverse my hand position & who knows.

my leaf blower is hand held, but I use it exclusively in my right hand without problems. whatever causes the problems, its due to the weight and vibration, & only my left arm.
 
OB, from an old thread someone suggested using a saw with a wrap around handle. Don't know if it would work for ya.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/left-handed-chainsaw.30300/

I quoted this for ya. Don't shoot the messenger !! LOLO

If you have a chainsaw with a wrap handle you can use it lefthanded, I do this when I have to, I don't see why someone couldn't do this all the time. As far as someone making one, I don't think so.

Buy a saw with a wrap around handle or modify one of your saws.

Good luck and BE CAREFUL OUT THERE !!
 
well for some lightweight example, the old O&R engine was used on a chainsaw, they were lefties, & if I remember my history corrct, FORD chainsaws were the same O&R engine. lol. I know there were other vintage saws that were real lefties, I used to hang around saw shops when I was alot younger, never used one however, & not sure if that would work?

I am pretty sure I have a couple with full wrap around handles, but are heavy saws. I think I even have a couple old saws with BOW bars.

I did look at some echo & johnsered saws in last couple of days, & nothing doing with the weight. I have seen one that looks interesting tonight on the Stihl website, the MS 150 C-E, I will see if anyone has that in stock & see if thats a potential.

I have literally hundreds of trees to cut up. my right of way is close to 1 mile, & in last decade there has been a twister that touched down in tree tops, & a bad ice storm, so to get the old field cleaned up, which was a yard where an old house stood, & will make a great picnic area & a get away again. I have alot ahead of me. & the field is surrounded by the forest, & so many downed trees, plus what needs to be cut. thats what has me here. & I very well may do a ported muffler.
 
I seen someone use a wild thing once. I noticed it didn't have felling spikes on it. I would at least get a saw that has those. You can dig in and pull up on the rear handle to make the cut with your right hand . You can do a muffler mod on small saws to get some more power. Basically take the muffler off and drill a couple holes in it. Blow out the metal filings. Then richen up the H screw on the carb. You can gain about 25% more power. Search muffler mod on wild thing and I'm sure there a thread on it.

I love felling spikes, & understand that alll to well, a great example is alot of the old Homelite superxl12 came without them, but could be added. I have them both ways. I know I even have a vintage Poulan, thats really a Homelite Super xl 12, but its labeled Poulan, factory green I forget the model without going & hunting for it, but I am familiar with many saws made from the 50's to 90's but my biggest problem is weight & vibration, everything else takes a backseat

The old Homelite saws were my favorite saws, thats why I have so many, I have old blue ones, the re-introduction of the blue, I call new blue & many red ones. never had a shifter one, but always wanted one, but now besides being able to play a couple min, I really couldnt use it.
 
I love felling spikes, & understand that alll to well, a great example is alot of the old Homelite superxl12 came without them, but could be added. I have them both ways. I know I even have a vintage Poulan, thats really a Homelite Super xl 12, but its labeled Poulan, factory green I forget the model without going & hunting for it, but I am familiar with many saws made from the 50's to 90's but my biggest problem is weight & vibration, everything else takes a backseat

The old Homelite saws were my favorite saws, thats why I have so many, I have old blue ones, the re-introduction of the blue, I call new blue & many red ones. never had a shifter one, but always wanted one, but now besides being able to play a couple min, I really couldnt use it.
If you want to get rid of some of your old saws put them on the trading post of this site. The guys on the chainsaw forum love the old stuff. I hear a lot of good things about the husqvarna 346 xp great smaller saw.
 
If you want to get rid of some of your old saws put them on the trading post of this site. The guys on the chainsaw forum love the old stuff. I hear a lot of good things about the husqvarna 346 xp great smaller saw.

thanks, I probably wont sell until I am no longer able to physically use, & in honesty I would love to buy a couple, but I know I cant use, right now I can use, but I will hurt afterwards, but if a tree comes down, I will get it cut even if I have to grab a big saw, everyone on here would love pics of my yard, I am surrounded by BIG WOOD! I dont think there is a tree under 18 inches in my main yard, & many 2 to 3 feet, & down in the holler, up to 5 or so feet, but I have no intention of cutting the trees at my home, & I am only going to cut those that need to be cut at my other land, but compared they are small, most are under 1 foot, & I am too cheap to pay someone to do what I can do, even if I have to use a POS saw to do it, & I really used to love cutting, & still miss it. I will enjoy it until I lock my arm up, I never owned aXL15 with gear reduction, a shifter saw, or an early XL that used a wick instead of a fuel line. I havent looked at the trading post, but those are 3 that I dont think I could turn down if I saw one for sale, so its best for me not to look. lol.

never owned one of the small huskys. I forget the numbers but I know I have an older 366? or I think thats the model number, last time I used it, the clutch broke, & thats been 6 or 7 years, a big tree fell & after the clutch broke, I got out an old Homelite super XL with a 30" bar & finished it. I do have a bigger Husky, but I cant remember the number, it has a 36" bar I think & has a big bore 100cc kit on it

I have cut more with the old homelites than anything, & still love them over all the other saws, I liked the slower speed & and the sound, I just enjoyed them more.
 
A 200t with a 16" bar they are awesome for their size and weight. With felling spikes you should have plenty of leverage. Or maybe a 009 they are pretty light and have some pep. Good luck
 
I looked at a Husky T435 I am thinking very hard, it felt very good to hold, the top handle is my big problem, also not sure about the 1 bolt to hold the bar on, but if I dont find anything else, thats affordable I may pick it up to try, the Stihl 150 ultra light I like from seeing online, the local dealer didnt have in stock, & would order for me, but its over $500 & I dont want to drop that much unless I am sure I want it, & they didnt want to order for me to look at it, so checkmate, I also picked up to see what I thought of a Stihl 170 that they are pushing & said no way. so I got to go out of area to look at other dealers, to see if I find any comparable, or if they have aStihl 150 ultra light in stock, also I would like to look at a Husky T540 XP, if I strike out, I may buy the Husky T435, its only a little over $300, & it was in stock & it felt ok, & if it bothers my arm, I will go back to the Wild Thing POS, as it has not bothered me YET.
 
540xp is a good saw and will push a 16" bar if you were looking a little cheaper the top of the line echo top handle has good power and has 2 bar nuts I believe it also has a long warranty 5 years for homeowners I think
 
The little Stihl 192 also comes in a Rear Handle version.
From what I hear it has some pep to it.
My wife has a Dolmar 421. It is a dandy 10 lb saw.

David
 
as a side note, how many of these suggestions can we easily adjust the carb in the field?
the Husky T435 looks like I could use my vintage mechanic shirt pocket syle flathead screwdriver to adjust the high & low speed screws on the carb. they looked like flathead screws recessed slightly, but it looks like the older shirt screwdriver might work? modern mechanic pocket screwdrivers are short, the old ones were at least 2 times longer, & skinny.
 
I can relate to the arm problem, similar experience about 92 right arm shoulder to finger tips, Never got a specific reason but stoke was in the list, docs and pt people said about a 40% recovery would be max- not an acceptable solution. took me about 3 years to get back 98%, although not permanent according to docs, but its 2014 and still have better than 95% - got other parts that have faired worse over the years though.
 

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