How is your NWP kit holding up?

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Spokerider

Spokerider

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I bought a NWP piston / cylinder kit from Baileys for the 090. Haven't installed it yet.

How is your NWP holding up? Interested in the feedback.

Also, the piston clips that come with the kit, are they "safe" to use? Or should I find some OEM Stihl clips?
 
They are some of the worst AM kits I have seen used, many had wrist pin clip issues, putting OEM clips in helped some while others were not machined correctly to accept and hold OEM clips. I have seen 3 diff NWP sets ruined by clips coming out.
 
Hummmmm.
Well I would have bought a Meteor kit, but they don't make one, or even a 66mm 090 piston.
Which saws were they you have seen that damage in?
Any idea if the 090 kit accepts OEM clips? Is it the diameter of the clip wire that either allows it to work, or not work?
 
I seen two 066 jugs and a 046 jug ruined by clips coming out. I have not seen a NWP set for the 090 so I cannot comment directly on them The grooves in the piston were cut too shallow on the two 066 jugs and too thin on the 046 jug, the wire clip would not settle down into the groove on either end of the pin. Some sets I have heard about the pin would not go into the piston and others where the pin was either too long or too short.
Check your piston closely to see if the clip grooves are reasonably deep enough to hold the clips and that the clips fit decently into the grooves.
 
Use a NWP Big Bore (52mm) on my Jred 2171 (husky 372xp). I've had no issues with it. Ordered from Baileys about 5 years ago... Had some casting flaws, so exchanged it and got a really good one.... better casting than my OEM MS260 jug.
I used OEM clips. Mild woods port with .019 squish (thanx AS). Run a minimum of 4 tanks thru saw weekly... sometimes over 20 tanks a week.
No experience with 090 application.
 
I will try to source some OEM clips, and inspect the fitment carefully as you suggest PG600.

The casting on the 090 jug looks pretty good, no casting voids that I can see. The ports are not quite symmetrical and the surfaces are a little rough, but I'm going to polish them up to remedy that.
 
I have a NWP 52 MM kit on 372. I ported it to the hilt and put compression around 200 PSI ( 5 years running). The crank bearings went once and were replaced. The same crank, piston, rings, and cylinder are on the saw and it takes a licking 8 months out of the year cutting firewood.

NWP cylinders are fine by my standards.
 
i keep all the old factory clips and reuse them .....i have bent almost every aftermarket e-clip i tried to install (fit loose when installed ) i also use some dirko on the clips and let it dry (8hrs) before i put the jug on just in case .....lol
 
.........so the 090 piston pin is 15 x 9 x 46. Does that mean I can use ANY OEM clip that fits a 15mm piston pin ? Husky, Stihl, whatever?

Never heard of Dirko before;


Seems pretty thick. Has anybody used Loctite threadlocker on the clips before? Maybe the red?
 
dirko red is what stihl uses at the factory on all there clamshell motors (ms170,180,200,210,250,290,390 .........) its good stuff but like you said it is thick ..... a little film is all you need
red loctite isnt hick anuff in my opinion
can you use your old stihl clips ?
 
just use anaerobic gasket maker (it's red like locktite)

i've only used one kit on a 046 but i gets it's ass kicked every day i've head nothing about it failing.
BTW it's poping at 205 and turning 9.5k in the wood
 
It's all about inspecting the parts prior to installation with any of these aftermarket top ends. I was one of the testers for the prototype Bailey's 046 big bore kit. I used it on a commercial thinning job in bigger timber, for about four months. I used OEM rings and wrist pin clips. After the four months, I took the top end off and sent it back so they could inspect it. It did a good job. The performance wasn't top notch but for a prototype it was fine.
 
Jacob,
Will you please elaborate on "It's all about inspecting the parts prior to installation with any of these aftermarket top ends".
Inspecting exactly what?
I plan on checking piston to cylinder wall clearances, squish, piston pin length / fitment, alignment of ports to muffler and carb, looking for any burrs on the mounting surfaces, etc. I don't know enough to spot any minor casting defects on the piston or borderline machine work to see a flaw when I'm looking at one.......something that may compromise longevity down the road.

This reviewer on Baileys found that the impulse port needed to made deeper than what came from the factory;

Only time will tell Posted by: JEFFREY L. from NY on 10/30/2010 Rating: My OEM cylinder was scored so, being short on funds I ordered this since it looked like a bargain. I compared it visually with the OEM cylinder and this is what I found: External finish was identical; it had the same casting lines, same cooling fin configuration, size etc. The ports seemed to be identical both in size, placement and finish although the casting lines were a bit more pronounced in this aftermarket unit. (I cleaned mine up with a Dremel tool.) Spark plug hole, threads and cover mount holes were all excellent...as good as OEM. Decomp valve was good but I didn't disassemble to see the machine quality. The spring and rivets were a little rough on finish but they function just fine. The honing cross-hatch marks in the cylinder were pronounced; definitely not as smooth as my OEM. It gave the cylinder a dull gray look...almost like it's not been chrome lined at all but there was a heavy film of oil on it. After doing some research I found this may be advantageous. A properly cross-hatch hone will aid in keeping the piston rings steady and will retain a film of oil aiding in lubrication. My saw is for milling so the more lube the better and it should prolong piston/cylinder life. The only thing that struck me as not up to par was the relief cut in the base of the cylinder for the impulse hole. It was shallow and crudely done. My OEM was crisp and much deeper. Again, I Dremelled out mine and was very pleased at how easily it improved. I never had an issue with chrome flaking when doing any Dremelling. Lastly, the piston. This one is "moly" coated and was better machined than my previous aftermarket one. It needed no "cleaning up" or de-burring whatsoever. A drop-in replacement. I found the wrist pin to be much thinner walled than OEM and the spring clips thinner too so, I reused mine. I wanted to keep the weight as close to original as possible. My reassurance to all the naysayers out there is: for the price of one new OEM setup I can replace this assembly 4 times over! 188 people found this review helpful. Was this review helpful? Yes - See more at: http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...palces-1106-020-1211.axd#sthash.cDVY8CRP.dpuf
 
Spokerider, the key to the clips is fitment in the piston grooves. Be very careful swapping pins as they should be fitted to the piston, if they don't fit the bearing then don't use the kit. Ken
 
I've Got an 044 with a 52 mm kit on it.
I purchased it like that. The fit and finish on the jug are nice, inside and out. The split piston rings are another story. Junk.
This particular saw only had 130 psi , ran good tho. Squish was .065. Dropped the base gasket and put in a set of stihl 046/460 rings and squish went to .046
And the comp went to 150 assembled but not run .
So , check that squish and deep six the nwp rings.
Just my 2 pesos.
 
We had a NWP piston in a 066 explode and wreck the case&cylinder. Hard use but will not go with NWP anymore.
 

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