Husky 350

[calee]

Just picked up a 350, guys says piston is bad scored and has pics to prove it, says cylinder is still good per local husky dealer. Unknown how this happened, his dad was running it. Otherwise it looks in good shape. I know nothing about these saws. Any Info you guys have is welcome and appreciated. Thx

 

[old-cat]

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...0-jonsered-2141-2145-2150-information.237587/

Read, learn!

 

[calee]

Ok thanks that thats a good bit of info. If some of you guys were going to make this, as close to s pro saw as possible, what would you do?

 

[old-cat]

Ok thanks that thats a good bit of info. If some of you guys were going to make this, as close to s pro saw as possible, what would you do?

All that info is in the thread. Basically the saw needs to be totally rebuilt, you end up with a SERIOUS saw!

 

[Mattyo]

sorry in advance Calee....you're gonna need to do some reading....

 

[calee]

Ok how do you get the av spring off the cylinder to remove the cylinder?

 

[w8ye]

The spring is retained by a screw.
Reach down through the spring with a hex key wrench to remove the screw.

 

[calee]

There is a plastic price that is in the outside end of the spring the holds the screw for the wrap handle.

 

[old-cat]

With the handle and all in place, you can unscrew the outside screw from the handle then run the 4 mm allen all the way down into the screw attached to the cyl.

 

[super3]

Use the long end of the allen if all you have is a standard one. Many options for adding leverage to the short end.

 

[SawTroll]

Ok thanks that thats a good bit of info. If some of you guys were going to make this, as close to s pro saw as possible, what would you do?

Put a 346xp top end on it.

 

[old-cat]

The most bang for the $$$ is the late 45 mm cylinder with a Meteor 353 piston, reduce the squish gap to .020" then re time and port it.

Amazing power!

 

[w8ye]

If you don't need a cylinder, a flat top 353 piston would give it a pretty good power boost.

There's a reason the original cylinder is scored.

Check the intake boot retainer. If plastic, it needs to be metal.

Check under the muffler for the plastic being burned?

 

[Four Paws]

If some of you guys were going to make this, as close to s pro saw as possible, what would you do?

Sell it to someone who actually likes a plastic cased clamshell saw (Old-Cat for instance). Then go buy a magnesium cased saw...a Husky 50/51/55 is a nice project. You can get a good education rebuilding that 350, but when you are done, you still have a 350.

 

[calee]

I like the idea of 353 piston and 45mm cylinder, if needed. The squish gap? Is that the gasket between cylinder and case?
I dont have the skill to retime or port. If someone wants to do the work on thus saw say so. Or has good trades.

 

[Mattyo]

I got a lightly ported 350 in the trading post. ...I'll trade for it if you like...but might be more $$ than u want to spend....

 

[calee]

Mattyo looked at ad, im considering. Tell me what you got in mind and where you are, please.

 

[Mattyo]

I'm in Farmington CT. ...

Please send or post pics of your saw
...then we can talk

 

[Mattyo]

Ok, it isn't 3am anymore... what was I thinkin? yes, post pics asap...that's a good idea. If you are just looking at a piston then that's $40 or so. But the 350 really needs a diagnosis as to what was wrong in the first place. Its likely it has a plastic intake clamp ...and therefore a leak in that spot. That needs to get changed...$10 or so for the part. The base adapter likely needs to be resealed... there sometimes is a leak between the chassis and the base adapter necessitating some machining of the base adapter ...sanding etc to get it flat and then a reseal. This costs nothing but time. new base gasket, air filter, fuel filter, new lines maybe.... it can cost a few $$ for sure. This is probably what it needs at minimum. stage 2 involves machining the base adapter to lower the squish and up the compression...and doing a little port work to open the exhaust and intake and retime the saw optimally.

You can ...if you have the $$... get a new 346xp P&C from spike60 (a member here) and then you'll have a rippin saw, but at quite a cost.

if I might make a suggestion... sell the saw as a parts saw... or better yet part it out...you could make money.

best advice...if you really want a 350 then get one from the trading post that has been thoroughly gone through. someone just sold one for $200.... it had a 44mm P&C ...so it was detuned a bit, but still a completely gone through saw. new old stock 346xp's go for $500 ... and if you wanted to upgrade this 350 to the 346xp P&C you might spend close to 300-400 doing it. you run into the law of diminishing returns quickly.

either way, even if you buy my 350...expect to fiddle with it a bit. they are fun little saws for sure...but they need tinkering. the good news is that they are one of the easiest saws to maintain, tinker with, and buy cheap parts for. best of luck whatever you decide....

-Mattyo

ps... i'll make you this offer.. if you ship the saw to me, at your expense, i'll give a a quote to fix it.... or me to buy it as parts, or something.... if you don't like my quote, i'll ship it back at my expense (but in pieces because it'll be completely apart). not trying to speak for him, but OLD CAT likes to fiddle with these too, and would definitely be qualified to fix this for ya

 

[calee]