kuuma, caddy, yukon, etc, efficient indoor wood furnaces and duct register temps

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tallywhacker

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i was wondering what the outlet duct register temps are on these type furnaces. thinking of getting one for a 2 story 2800 sq. ft. log house in va. its not a super tight insulated home, but not too bad. im using a clayton 1537g with 1100 cfm blower now, its about 18 years old. I can get 150 register temp on high with flue temps around 350, but I have keep checking on it to adjust flue damper, air under grates and over top of fire to keep the flue temp good to get that temp. these new furnaces seem to be a lot more automatic, which I like but am curios how much heat they put out. yea they might be efficient and use less wood, but how much heat do they put out? thanks for any info
 
Our Caddy can put out 115° air or a little higher with flue temps around 200-250 degrees external. Register temps vary based on heating demand. Our old furnace would put out temps much higher (hotblast 1500) but it had a firebox almost twice the size. That and it could burn a load in 6 hours. With the Caddy however, burn times are longer, cleaner and the house stays within 2 degrees of the thermostat. In the teens, I can get a 10 hour burn overnight and have the house at 71 ( set for 72) in the am. If our furnace put out 150° temps, our house would be a hundred degrees.
 
Register temps...boy, those can really vary on any wood furnace. Depends on the stage of the fire, moisture content of the wood, your draft speed, how clean your heat exchanger is, size of the ducts, number of ducts, size of the blower, blower speed, if you have an air filter and how clean it is, etc, etc. Not trying to be a smart alec, it's just not a simple answer.
How long will your blower run at those register temps? Does it cycle on/off?
Which Yukon are you looking at? I wouldn't group the Yukons in the "efficient" wood heaters category...better than a Clayton for sure, but not like a Caddy, and definitely not in the same league as a Kuuma!
 
@ op:
Has the log house been chinked inside and out? I've heard chinking can reduce wood consumption and heat loss by 50%.
 
yea its chinked both sides, but im always caulking something here and there whenever I find a leak. my stove does ok till temps get in 20's. upstairs is the real problem, I don't have duct work from wood furnace going up there. it gets plenty warm on first floor, but the warm air wont go upstairs
 
The Register air temp is not really much of an indication of ability or efficiency . Meaningless Number in the grand scheme of things. What value is a high register air temperature if it's for only a few hours time frame and takes a firebox that's over 7 cubic feet of wood to do it
 
when it gets cold out I turn the fan temp DOWN lower temp but constant heat, heats better. It is supposed to be -14 and windy this weekend, I think I will put the furnace on high all night for the 1st time. I generally keep it on low till 0* any colder out goes to medium. All these units will satisfy your demands unless maybe its below zero and your trying to heat your house from a 50* temp. Then it may take a while.
 
New generation of mitsubishi heat pumps run non stop but have constant flow of the set temperature , it is only coming out whatever it's set at and they do fine regardless of outside temperature
 
New generation of mitsubishi heat pumps run non stop but have constant flow of the set temperature , it is only coming out whatever it's set at and they do fine regardless of outside temperature

That is not how they work. But the fan does run constantly.
 
i can keep the duct the duct temps around 150, when im their to keep air and flue damper, but you have to keep checking it every 15 , 20 minutes to make sure its not getting too hot or cooling down too much. if im not there , I turn the air supply down close flue damper somewhate to avoid overfire. and yea it does make a difference with what kind of wood you put in it. the furnace fan will stay on till plenum temp goes down to around 85. my main goal here is to get a new stove that's safe, clean burning, and uses less wood. with a higher cfm fan and nice warm duct temps. I don't see the point of paying 3000 to 5000 for a efficient furnace if it wont heat the house.
 
Both will provide alot of heat over a long period of time. As far as maximum output, the Max Caddy will produce more, with a larger firebox and an 1800 cfm blower. Both contain secondary combustion and secondary heat exchangers.
 

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