Ms290 burnt up!

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Stephen C. said:
I went to our local Pro saw shop and asked the guy at the parts counter for crankcase sealant. He said the don't sell it and didn't know what the mechanics used, he invited me to the back room to talk with them. Our local "pro" saw shop has never heard of any of these sealants. They assured me they use high temp silicone. "That is what their manufacture recommends." I talked to all 4 mechanics in the back room, got the same answer and that is all they have in their tool boxes. They showed it to me. If you say the word Dirko or Motoseal they get the deer in the headlights look. I mentioned I thought there was something better. They didn't seem interested. I thanked them and left. :drinkingcoffee:
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One More reason why "I" like to work on my saws
 
Fear not to use "Yamabond". It is a quality product. Dirko is in the same class. Its all good.
 
Back to the oil mixing... LOL. I put the oil in the gas can first and then pump the gas in. Never had a problem.
 
Me too, I use 2 or 2 1/2 gal containers & run the nozzle wide open to stir it up good. I always give it a little shaking before fueling the saw. I can see why it might be a little better to put the mix in at partial level, especially with a larger container. I sure wasn't aware that any modern oil-mix separated to the degree of what the OP discovered.
 
Mud man said:
I was using 2 cyl oil from tractor supply. Honestly is it better to rebuild it vs. replace with a long block?
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Depends on what is wrong with ur engine. Top end. Bottom end. Both send pics of burnt and scored parts. We like those pics
 
Pull ur jug and check bottom end. If it feels smooth and no slop in bearings besides a lil side to side float with the rod than get a piston and jug kit make sure all ports are chamfered nice and roll with it and use 40/1 mix
 
Go to the "beg for manuals" thread in the stickies and ask for a service manual on that saw. There are very kind folks that will send you one(if you dont have it) and it will give you detailed instructions w/ pics on how to remove and replace the motor. The motor is removed and reinstalled as a unit. You will only be able to check the bearings by removing the bottom cap on the engine and removing the piston/crank/bearings out the bottom. You can then spin the bearings on the crank to determine if they are still good. If they are, you can reuse and replace the piston and rings. You will have aluminum transfer on the cylinder. All of this must be removed(either mechanically or chemically) before you reinstall a new piston. Removing the aluminum is not covered in the service manual because Stihl wants you to replace the motor. There are dozens of threads here about removing the aluminum with muratic acid or a jewelers grinder and sanding wheels.

(or)

If you dont want to do the above, you can replace the motor. That saw would have to be in good condition for me to do either option.
 
since i've followed this thread from page one, i know that you have the hutzl engine and want to install it in the 029 plastic case. hopefully you got the 49mm bore 039/390. to do that you have to disassemble the saw. that means removing everything, the handle bars, front and rear and all the plastic on top, then carburator, clutch and ignition module and flywheel. you have to remove the rear bar stud. the best way that i have found for that is to unscrew it with a pair of vice grips. buy a new stud to replace it. the upper front engine mount is a pain as is the chain break. when you've got all that off, remove the four bolts thru the bottom of the saw. your engine will then be free. next scratch your head and start to solve the chinese puzzle of slipping the engine out of the plastic case. pay attention because it just as hard to get it back in. don't force anything. you just have to turn it and tilt it and it will slip out. assemble the new pan and engine with a light coating of yamabond (or whatever). use some half inch spacers or buy some shorter cap screws to clamp everything together and let it sit for 12 hours. remove the four bolts and put the engine back in the case. hopefully, while you were letting the new engine set, you have been practising slipping the old engine in and out of the plastic case. do that until you can do it in your sleep, then put the new one in. the secret to getting the upper front av mount back in its hole is to pull it thru with a string tied in a slip knot. a little crisco helps but isn't necessary. i probably forgot something.

it's not as easy as taking the cylinder off a conventional saw, but the upside is that you not only have a new top end but also new bearings and seals. take good care of it and it might outlast you.
 
heyduke said:
since i've followed this thread from page one, i know that you have the hutzl engine and want to install it in the 029 plastic case. hopefully you got the 49mm bore 039/390. to do that you have to disassemble the saw. that means removing everything, the handle bars, front and rear and all the plastic on top, then carburator, clutch and ignition module and flywheel. you have to remove the rear bar stud. the best way that i have found for that is to unscrew it with a pair of vice grips. buy a new stud to replace it. the upper front engine mount is a pain as is the chain break. when you've got all that off, remove the four bolts thru the bottom of the saw. your engine will then be free. next scratch your head and start to solve the chinese puzzle of slipping the engine out of the plastic case. pay attention because it just as hard to get it back in. don't force anything. you just have to turn it and tilt it and it will slip out. assemble the new pan and engine with a light coating of yamabond (or whatever). use some half inch spacers or buy some shorter cap screws to clamp everything together and let it sit for 12 hours. remove the four bolts and put the engine back in the case. hopefully, while you were letting the new engine set, you have been practising slipping the old engine in and out of the plastic case. do that until you can do it in your sleep, then put the new one in. the secret to getting the upper front av mount back in its hole is to pull it thru with a string tied in a slip knot. a little crisco helps but isn't necessary. i probably forgot something.

it's not as easy as taking the cylinder off a conventional saw, but the upside is that you not only have a new top end but also new bearings and seals. take good care of it and it might outlast you.
Click to expand...
Good post!

If you're a visual learner, there's an hour long vid. on u tube under the obscure title "detailed and complete reassembling of stihl chainsaw (ms390)". While it's not a perfect video (...don't smoke the clutch like he does at the end, don't lock piston with rope through exhaust port, 8mm socket not 9mm ...........) , it'll give a general idea of what's involved.
 
71dart said:
Good post!

If you're a visual learner, there's an hour long vid. on u tube under the obscure title "detailed and complete reassembling of stihl chainsaw (ms390)". While it's not a perfect video (...don't smoke the clutch like he does at the end, don't lock piston with rope through exhaust port, 8mm socket not 9mm ...........) , it'll give a general idea of what's involved.
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Was that a how to or what not to do vid
 
Stephen C. said:
Yes I did. I bought it brand new. Got a great deal on it. I ordered a 3.7 on sale for $217 and Sears didn't have any in stock so the substituted the 4.2 ($479 saw) as an equal or better replacement.:happy: It is a Craftsman 4.2 with the original unused 24 inch bar. ( put a 16 on it for the cutting I was doing):numberone: (Poulan 4200 in prettier colors). I ran it for almost 28 years till the POS burned up. My friends that ran Homelites were right (but they still cant feel their hands :laugh:), Poulan's are junk. My replacement 4200 still runs like a new saw.:drinkingcoffee:I should check and see how old it is.
View attachment 408026
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Yeah that is a cool old saw all metal. This is what i am starting on hope its good to go for the mn gtg
 

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