TSC bar oil?

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Since this thread is still running I might throw in some thing else. I'm fourth generation in the family doing residential tree care. So,some one in the family has been running chainsaws, since there were chainsaws. I worked for my Dad from the late 60's to the mid 80's. In that time period the logic on bar oil swung from one extreme to the other. One line of thought was that a thick oil stuck to the bar longer and lubricated better. The other line of thought was a thin oil flew off the end of the bar and "carried heat" off the bar better and faster. Both sides has slews of scientific data to back them up. We adjusted our chains so you could pull up on the chain with two fingers till the drive link was just clear of the bar on top, or maybe even sagging a wee little bit on the bottom of the bar. Run a tank of oil per tank of fuel, should be good. The three Homelites in this picture were running when I took the pic, and they all have the original bars on them. Twenty years commercial use and another 20 of me abusing them. They all sit on a shelf in the garage now, but 40 plus years of mostly 10w30, Joe.

good points Joe.but i have to ask....where's the oil tank on the saw with the wooden handle and does it still run? :dumb2:
 
Since this thread is still running I might throw in some thing else. I'm fourth generation in the family doing residential tree care. So,some one in the family has been running chainsaws, since there were chainsaws. I worked for my Dad from the late 60's to the mid 80's. In that time period the logic on bar oil swung from one extreme to the other. One line of thought was that a thick oil stuck to the bar longer and lubricated better. The other line of thought was a thin oil flew off the end of the bar and "carried heat" off the bar better and faster. Both sides has slews of scientific data to back them up. We adjusted our chains so you could pull up on the chain with two fingers till the drive link was just clear of the bar on top, or maybe even sagging a wee little bit on the bottom of the bar. Run a tank of oil per tank of fuel, should be good. The three Homelites in this picture were running when I took the pic, and they all have the original bars on them. Twenty years commercial use and another 20 of me abusing them. They all sit on a shelf in the garage now, but 40 plus years of mostly 10w30, Joe.

Tough to argue with those results.
 
Since this thread is still running I might throw in some thing else. I'm fourth generation in the family doing residential tree care. So,some one in the family has been running chainsaws, since there were chainsaws. I worked for my Dad from the late 60's to the mid 80's. In that time period the logic on bar oil swung from one extreme to the other. One line of thought was that a thick oil stuck to the bar longer and lubricated better. The other line of thought was a thin oil flew off the end of the bar and "carried heat" off the bar better and faster. Both sides has slews of scientific data to back them up. We adjusted our chains so you could pull up on the chain with two fingers till the drive link was just clear of the bar on top, or maybe even sagging a wee little bit on the bottom of the bar. Run a tank of oil per tank of fuel, should be good. The three Homelites in this picture were running when I took the pic, and they all have the original bars on them. Twenty years commercial use and another 20 of me abusing them. They all sit on a shelf in the garage now, but 40 plus years of mostly 10w30, Joe.

Looks like the Homelites faired better than the Mopar
 
i use 10w30 in the winter just drive down to walmart or freds and hand over 12$ and walk away i usually keep one around in the winter even though i stick to cutting wood in the summer and spring. you never know when the need arrives to cut wood in the winter.
 
good points Joe.but i have to ask....where's the oil tank on the saw with the wooden handle and does it still run? :dumb2:
The oil goes in the helper handle, I had it off draining. Put it back on and hung it on the wall in the family room. That was my Dad's limbing saw before they had small saws for up in trees. When I was a kid he still hand cut limbs up to about 18". He had a 48' chest and a 28' waist up into his 60's. Not many guys like that around anymore, Joe.

 
Looks like the Homelites faired better than the Mopar

Well, you've heard of the "Fast track", the "Cuda" is sitting on the "side track". But, it is a nice one. It's a Formula S 383 four speed. Plymouth only built 64 of them in 68, none in 67 or 69, big block convertibles that is. The engine and trans are done, I have all new interior, just waiting on the money to do the sheet metal. I've got just about 1 year to go till I retire and then I plan on finishing it, Joe.
 
Well, you've heard of the "Fast track", the "Cuda" is sitting on the "side track". But, it is a nice one. It's a Formula S 383 four speed. Plymouth only built 64 of them in 68, none in 67 or 69, big block convertibles that is. The engine and trans are done, I have all new interior, just waiting on the money to do the sheet metal. I've got just about 1 year to go till I retire and then I plan on finishing it, Joe.
That is one RARE 'cuda!I'd like to see it done and I'd like to see it run!
 
10W30 feels like what we get up here too.

Almost forever we've been buying/using the TSC brand by the case loads when it's on sale, no problems to report...

...but I can't truthfully remember the last time I've run either saw WOT.

Every time I cut I give the saw a visual and hands on inspection. The chain is adequately oiled...no hot spots on the teeth and it will dirty your ungloved fingers the way it should.
 
sure beats super tech bar oil i used TSC oil is quite tacky but not overly thick.
reminds me of itasca oil but at $3.00 less good stuff!
 
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