log splitter 2 small rams vs 1 big ram

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razor

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im building a log splitter and looking for advice on whats the best ram to use 2 small rams or 1 big ram?
i was hoping to go with the 2 small rams because i have some buried in the nettles round the back and would like to put them to use, they are a identical pair and the rod size is 1.5" and cylinder is just under 3" and the stroke or length is about 2 foot what do you lot think would they be beefy enough if mounted side by side? i'll try and get some pics of these rams up
 
see if i can get the ram pics up here . would they be up to pushing through a 4 way wedge? or am i best buying 1 big ram like 4 or 5 inch
 

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Maybe use the small ones for a log lift? I've never built one but would bet one big ram would work better for the pusher.
 
The shafts look pitted, rusted Every time you cycle the cylinder its going to leak a little bit over time you make puddles, over a long enough time frame you loose all of your hyd fluid, not good! Even if you repack the end caps (glands) as soon as the pitted shaft areas run across the new seal- its torn. I would think either look else where, better cylinder(s) Or buy new for said purpose and then all is well. A side from the shafts condition the return port/plumbing looks small 3/8 maybe going to be slow cycle-time and build heat which you want neither in a splitter.

I think running 1 larger cylinder is easier- #1 and better. Not that it cant be done be done, but running 2 cylinder is expensive, hose, fittings, valves etc. it all adds up. the 2 cylinder will generate more heat along with a host of other issues what ar ethe condition of the seals in side of the cylinder? In the lng run 1 large cylinder is just easier. IMO
 
Using 2 3in cylinders will pretty much give you the power of a 4.5in cylinder. Its not that hard to plumb two cylinder's instead of one, thats not where your problems lay. As Has been said, the pitted cyl rods is what is going to cause you grief. It might be possible to polish out the rusty spots, but even if you do, its going to weep oil every time the cyl are extended and retracted. If it wasnt for the pitting, i would say go for it, build with what you got, but this time, I think you will be better off just buying/finding a different cylinder.
 
I'm in the process of resurrecting a double ram splitter that I built about 35 years ago. I stacked the rams on top of each other. It worked fine. I'm going to a new electric start 7hp motor instead of an old Briggs that was salvaged. Otherwise, no changes. I believe the stroke is only about 19" but that's long enough for what I use.

I'll get photos in the morning.
 
thanks for all your replies so far. i like your idea of the log lift zogger but i think these rams might be a bit overkill for the size of logs im splitting.
yeah the pitting could be a big problem but hopefully most should polish out, i think what i'll do first is plumb the rams up to my loader and see if they work without leaking to much and go from there, if they dont hold oil then yeah a new ram it will have to be. i dont think heat will be to much of a problem it will be running of back end of tractor with big capacity and oil cooler so should be alright. i was thinking if i can go with these rams i should be getting 8-9 ton extending force per ram does that sound about right?
buzz sawyer i was going to fit the rams close side by side but stacking the rams top and under sounds a better idea i'll have to look into that. will be interesting to see your build
 
If both cyl are 3in bore, then you should have about 15tons of force at 2500psi. Pull force would be abot 11 tons. The 3in measurment that you provided, is that the actual bore of the cyl or the outside dia. If its the outside dia, you may only have about a 2.5in bore, if thats the case, you will be around 13.5 tons of force @2500psi. This enough force for small easy to split wood, but you can forget using a 4way on anything that might be hard to split.
 
yeah the cylinder bore is about 3 inch i dont know the exact size because i havent had the rams apart but the outside dia of the cylinder is just under 4 inch. if i can get 15 ton pushing force with these rams then i would be happy with that. will get some wire wool and clean the pitting up best i can and try see if they hold oil.
thanks for your help
 
Here's a couple photos of mine. Again, in the process of minor re-design and a new engine. Keep in mind, this was 35 years ago, I was 27 and had seen only one other log splitter (lickety splitter) and had minor experience with welding and machining. Parts were things my dad had accumulated over time. The only things I bought were the pump, the valve, and the hoses. A machinist friend forged the cutting tip of the wedge from tool steel. I don't rememeber ever sharpening it. No, it didn't have the power of the Lickety Splitter but I've split a fair amount of wood with it. I have to hold the valve in the forward position but it has a detent to stop it in reverse. I think the total travel is about 18". Also need to add a support near the front of the ram as it can lift and bend the rails of the I beam.
DSCN9352.JPG DSCN9353.JPG
 
grand splitter you've built there, sounds like its stood up to the test of time too with 35 years of use. good size rams you got on there they look abit bigger than mine.
is the jerry can for your hydraulic oil ? so on your valve block were you saying once you've extended the ram splitting the log it will return without having to push lever other way ? i could do with fixing up something like that on mine.
 
Thanks for the kind words.
The rams are 3" ID with about 17" travel. I have the wedge set to allow a 23" log and at times have to add a block to push stringy stuff like elm or hickory all the way through. I plumbed only the bottom ram to reverse. I have to push the lever into reverse - where it locks. When the cyl. bottoms out, the pressure increase pops the valve back into neutral. This has been a bit of a pain when splitting shorter logs. I may try to clamp a stop on the rail and see if I can get the same effect so I don't have to use a spacer block. I normally burn 16" stuff.
Yes, the jerry can is for the oil. I've always just used automatic transmission fluid. Never even put an oil filter on it. I may upgrade to a two stage pump if the new motor doesn't have as much power as the old one.
 
im building a log splitter and looking for advice on whats the best ram to use 2 small rams or 1 big ram?
i was hoping to go with the 2 small rams because i have some buried in the nettles round the back and would like to put them to use, they are a identical pair and the rod size is 1.5" and cylinder is just under 3" and the stroke or length is about 2 foot what do you lot think would they be beefy enough if mounted side by side? i'll try and get some pics of these rams up
First of all, we do not have all cards in the deck face up. To many assumptions about the back ground facts. If that can of Heinz beans is a 15oz can, its diameter is 2 7/8". The cylinders on the image seem to be 1/4" less diameter than the can....
The cylinder bore could be closer to 2" than 2.5"....
Even if the two cylinders combined will match the splitting force your splitter requires, I would try to trade them for a larger cylinder.
It is easy to think that two small cylinders will push more tons than one larger cylinder. But it is all about numbers and math.
If these two is approx 3" outside diameter, the should be 2.5" bore. It is the cross-section are that matters for the splitting force. The cross-section area is the square of diameter by Pi divided with 4, and that equals 4.91 sqi per cylinder, 9.82 sqi for the two combined. A 4" bore cylinder will have 12.57 sqi cross-section area....so your dbl-cylinder project will come out almost 30% less force-full than a splitter with a 4" cylinder. With a max 3000 psi pump pressure, these two will push max 14.8 ton.
A 4" bore will push 18.8 ton.
Also combined the dbl-cyl setup will make up for more friction losses than one single 4" bore cylinder...
But as I said above, we don't even know for sure the true dimension of that can of beans....
 
yeah your right i've made a bit of a balls up with my measurements, i dont know how but i think i must of mixed the outside diameter up with the inside
the actual size of the outside of the cylinder is 2 3/4" rod size is 1.5" so inside cylinder around 2" ?
good job you pointed that out otherwise i probably would have gone with these rams and would have been pretty disappointed to find out i cant even split a twig
these rams are going back in the nettles and i will be looking for a 5 "or 6 " ram or 2 3 1/5 " or 4" rams

buzz sawyer, im with you now about the detent on the spool valve i like that idea , will put one on my list, hope you get on well with fitting your new engine.
 
Since you cant use the cyl you have, now might be a good time to step back and decide just exactly what you want to build. Do you really need a 5 or 6in bore cyl, or will a 4in cyl do just fine. A 4in cyl will push just about anything thru a 4way wedge. What other materials/parts do you have laying around. If you have to buy everything to do your built, it might be best to just buy a off the shelf splitter. This could save you some money as well as a bunch of time
 
the only major parts i need to buy will be the spool valve block and a ram and maybe some pipe, pipe fittings etc. all the steel will be off the farm scrape pile
will be alot cheaper than buying a new one, plus i enjoy building stuff. for a 20 ton machine here your looking at paying £800 - 900
so 4" cylinder will be big enough then? even for logs riddled with knots. i'd rather have the extra power than not enough.
 
the only major parts i need to buy will be the spool valve block and a ram and maybe some pipe, pipe fittings etc. all the steel will be off the farm scrape pile
will be alot cheaper than buying a new one, plus i enjoy building stuff. for a 20 ton machine here your looking at paying £800 - 900
so 4" cylinder will be big enough then? even for logs riddled with knots. i'd rather have the extra power than not enough.
You have to decide system pressure before thinking about what your splitting force is going to be with a 4" cylinder. And the main point in the system pressure is the pump. A barnes two-stage pump is rated for max 3000psi. That will make 18.8 ton with a 4" cylinder. Then your power source will decide how big (gpm) pump you can hook up. That will decide the possible cycle time
 
the only major parts i need to buy will be the spool valve block and a ram and maybe some pipe, pipe fittings etc. all the steel will be off the farm scrape pile
will be alot cheaper than buying a new one, plus i enjoy building stuff. for a 20 ton machine here your looking at paying £800 - 900
so 4" cylinder will be big enough then? even for logs riddled with knots. i'd rather have the extra power than not enough.
You have to decide system pressure before thinking about what your splitting force is going to be with a 4" cylinder. And the main point in the system pressure is the pump. A barnes two-stage pump is rated for max 3000psi. That will make 18.8 ton with a 4" cylinder. Then your power source will decide how big (gpm) pump you can hook up. That will decide the possible cycle time
 
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