395xp slabbing sugar maple

[Chris_In_VT]

My first milling "job" with my alaskan mill.
395xp, 32" bar, granberg ripping chain.
The owner of this property originally had me cut a few large cookies out of this trunk for a project. As soon as I saw this log, I knew it was a perfect job for an alaskan mill. Down a hill in the woods, no equipment to skid it, no way to set up a bandmill. This was the best 7 feet of the tree too. Some slabs have soft spots, but most of it has some good spalting.
I got half the slabs, a few bucks for gas and some blueberries and raspberries. It was fun!

Feel free to critique\advise me on my technique. Still new at this.

 

[Chris_In_VT]

 

[MGoodwin]

I am sure you found out how hard of work pushing is. I recently added a simple winch with remote throttle (previous post about this). You seem to be a good distance away from the motor head, but the remote throttle gets you a bit further (less exhaust inhalation) and the winch was awesome. Took 80% of the effort out of cutting. I know some will advocate "just" elevating one end of the log and let gravity do the work, but there are obvious logistical issues with that. The winch is indifferent to slope. The winch I made was hooky (that might be generous) but was quite effective.

I noticed you where "see-sawing" the saw through the wood. Some say this is bad form, I would say just be aware that you are opening your kerf a bit, and will get a rougher cut. I dont think there is anything wrong with that, I have been doing exactly that until very recently (winch pulls the saw straight), as you are typically planning the boards down anyway. Whats another pass or two through the planner?

Looks like a lot of great character. Seems like you were making decent time in the cut too. Happy cutting!

 

[Chris_In_VT]

I am sure you found out how hard of work pushing is. I recently added a simple winch with remote throttle (previous post about this). You seem to be a good distance away from the motor head, but the remote throttle gets you a bit further (less exhaust inhalation) and the winch was awesome. Took 80% of the effort out of cutting. I know some will advocate "just" elevating one end of the log and let gravity do the work, but there are obvious logistical issues with that. The winch is indifferent to slope. The winch I made was hooky (that might be generous) but was quite effective.

I noticed you where "see-sawing" the saw through the wood. Some say this is bad form, I would say just be aware that you are opening your kerf a bit, and will get a rougher cut. I dont think there is anything wrong with that, I have been doing exactly that until very recently (winch pulls the saw straight), as you are typically planning the boards down anyway. Whats another pass or two through the planner?

Looks like a lot of great character. Seems like you were making decent time in the cut too. Happy cutting!

I don't know about a winch. If I get to the point where I'm milling enough to make me think about a winch I would probably consider a band mill. Plus I'm only 24, I can handle pushing the saw (downhill) (for now)...
I wa wondering if someone would comment on the seesawing or rocking motion in the cut. I was wondering if it was "proper" or not. I do realize the finish is rougher but it will get planed, you're right. The chain wasn't dull, it was still cutting good. I just found it cut a bit quicker (or imagined it anyways) because it's not taking a whole swath at once.

Got a nice aspen at my parents house my dad is gonna help me with. That'll be a fun project. Probably got 4-5 clear 8' logs in it, 25" DBH. It'll give my dad a lifetime supply of wall hanger canoe paddle material (he makes them for our BSA troops Eagle Scouts)

 

[mdavlee]

You could sharpen a little more aggressive so all you have to do is hold the trigger and keep it sliding down the log. When it stops self feeding stop and sharpen. Usually every 3rd cut in maple, cherry, and oak. I don't do the see saw cutting myself.

 

[BobL]

Good effort for a first up!

I don't know about a winch. If I get to the point where I'm milling enough to make me think about a winch I would probably consider a band mill. Plus I'm only 24, I can handle pushing the saw (downhill) (for now)...

A winch is not necessary if your chain is sharpened correctly and the log is sloping downhill. That saw should shred that log so I suspect your chain is still not setup right for that wood.
If you want to post a sideways close up picture of a cutter and we'll comment on the profile.

I wa wondering if someone would comment on the seesawing or rocking motion in the cut. I was wondering if it was "proper" or not. I do realize the finish is rougher but it will get planed, you're right. The chain wasn't dull, it was still cutting good. I just found it cut a bit quicker (or imagined it anyways) because it's not taking a whole swath at once.

It's no quicker (next time try timing the cuts) and it generates a poorer finish because no matter how tight everything is on the mill and saw there will be small twists and flexes going on, and this produces a poorer finish. I reckon this makes a bigger difference than using milling chain. It's better to hold a steady line and pressure. Don't fang back into cuts after stopping but ease back into the cut.

This will get rid of these lines and the uneven cutting that results from cutting triangles of wood rather than rectangles

With CSMing there's a lot of emphasis on cutting fast only to generate more work at the wood processing end (planing) end of the job.
I'd rather spend the time cutting just a little bit slowler on the log than manoeuvring large pieces of lumber more times through a planer/thicknesser.

I can get as good a finish with my CS as I can with my BS

 

[Chris_In_VT]

I will get some pictures of my milling chain. It's a GB (granberg?) milling chain but it doesn't have the "scoring" cutter. It looks like semi chisel filed at 5 or 10 degrees. It was fresh off the reel, I hadn't filed it yet.

I was going to ask for some pointers on filing it. I feel I'm pretty capable at sharpening round chisel chain but I know this is different. I do have an adjustable filing jig, can't remember the brand but I haven't ever used it. Might for this.

 

[Skeans]

Take a bit off the rakers so it pulls on it's own let the saw do the work for, why make it harder then it has to be.


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[BobL]

I will get some pictures of my milling chain. It's a GB (granberg?) milling chain but it doesn't have the "scoring" cutter. It looks like semi chisel filed at 5 or 10 degrees. It was fresh off the reel, I hadn't filed it yet.

OK - in that case it will have what I call a "Wussy" factory sharpen. You can just "take a bit off the rakers" or you can try and quantify the situation.
Maybe start with this post http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nts-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-6#post-4107285
This post discusses all the chain angles and in particular one I call "raker angle". It's not the angle on the top of the raker but the angle between the wood - cutter tip - and top of the raker.
The angle this should be set at for optimised cutting varies with things like CS power, wood hardness, sprocket size, length of cut.
Most raker gauges maintain the same raker depth which do mot the same as same raker angle, over the life of a chain which is the main reason why used chains cut so poorly.
Devices like Carlton File-O-Plates (FOP) are better but still only generate a single raker angle which is usually too wussy.
There is no single recommended values you will have to suck it and see. I recommend starting with a 6º raker angle and working (usually upwards) from there.