hauling wood with garden tractor?

[1 stihl nut]

An adequate sized garden tractor is also more maneuverable than an atv imo. Especially with a trailer. Sharper turning, better backing etc.

An appropriately sized trailer for the tractor and the conditions is the key to productivity. Too small and you waste time making trips. Too large and you can end up in precarious positions. If you are working on firm, reasonably level ground, a small tractor can move a cord of wood around. If you are working on substantial inclines, its a good rule of thumb to not have your trailer weight exceed you tractor weight.

If you are working on soft ground...have large tires. But not necessarily"flotation" tires. Pickup truck tires or implement tires are better because they are easier rolling, especially when loaded. Larger diameter is much better because they not only aid in giving a bigger footprint, but give you a better angle of approach for climbing over obstacles and out of ruts. Small tires are for toys.

The OP mentioned his trailer and his wagon. IMO, these are both toys. Build a trailer with at least double the capacity, put some used auto tires on it and go to town. You don't really need spring suspension unless you log a lot of hiway miles. A bed 3-4' wide and 6-9' long and sides 24-42" high. Another benefit of larger diameter wheels is a better ride. This will be small enough to maneuver in tight woods and big enough for a relatively substantial load. Your tractor should handle it fine.

I'm sure log arches have their practical uses...like if you are actually after logs. But for getting firewood, they seem like another excuse to waste time farting around. All depends on what your real objective is.

 

[MechanicMatt]

The deck took a beating going on the atv trails, but the quad didn't want to play along so the red Honda got thrown into duty. I wish I had a older Wheel Horse to pull my trailers but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. I will say, this mower didn't want to play along untill the tire chains were put on, and even then it had limitations. They hydro would pull, just traction limited.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

what that with a CVT like that you not only have a belt to wear out, you also get a centrifugal clutch to wear out....more/ more expensive parts replaced less frequent, or 1 cheap part replaced more frequently...take your pick (they both suck)

without a "positive" type reduction all the way to the axles (see manual transmission) there will always be something slipping/wearing out at slow speeds with drive systems like that...ATV's aren't made for slow speeds, yeah they can go slow, but not without slipping/wearing the drive system

Wrong again! First of all, my old Grizz is one of the first ones made in the 90's, never had a belt replaced, never had it slip and it's never had a clutch problem of any kind... It's pulled loads of rock off my fields that I bet you no garden tractor would have pulled and I do have numerous garden tractors, including MFWD Kubota's...so I know what they will do.

I've skidded some big logs with it too, enough of them to know what it will do. It NEVER slips the belt, last time I asked my dealer, he said they have never even replaced a belt on one! And as for the clutch, it's an "oil cooled" clutch, they absolutely are problem free too. Also, the low range in it, has a low enough gear along with all the low end torque the motor makes, you can go slow without any problems.....so you really need to use one for a time to know of what you speak!

SR

 

[Whitespider]

How far from Highlandville are ya?

I'm southwest of there... maybe 45-50 miles as the crow flies, more like 70 on the roads.

Well, I have both, REAL garden tractors and ATV's... I have a hard time believing that a garden tractor will out pull my Yamaha Grizzly

Well, I know for a fact my old Sears garden tractor will out pull dad's 4x4 Honda ATV (does Foreman sound right?). Saturday we were pullin' logs out'a the ditch by his place (he took down an elm and 2 hard maple). When we got to the bigger logs the tires on his ATV would would slip and spin on the mix of snow, ice and loose gravel... and you could smell the clutches gettin' hot. I went and got my little, beat-up, old Sears... never slipped a wheel, but it don't pull as fast.

See, it has a "real" transmission/trans-axle in it... three forward gears, plus a high and low range. Put that thing in low range, 1st gear, run it full throttle, and it moves at a crawl (a lot slower than a man walks). With the (bias ply ) tires plum full of fluid, wheel weights and chains it flat bites even on ice (just one rear wheel/tire weighs more than all 4 of the ATV's)... at such a low gear it won't pull the engine down one single RPM (something will break first). And because it's smaller and more maneuverable, it will go places while pullin' the trailer the ATV can't when not pullin' the trailer.

I suppose you could "load" the tires on an ATV but that would sort't destroy any ride 'n' drive quality... and you'd still be limited by the way the clutches slip and apply torque. ATV's are handy to have around, great pieces of utility equipment; but the drive lines ain't really designed for real heavy pullin'... you'll burn something up if ya' over do it. I've skidded some pretty big logs out'a the woodlot with my little tractor, slow but sure... logs I know dad's ATV couldn't (and it couldn't get down in those tight spots to hook on to 'em anyway).
*

 

[nathon918]

It NEVER slips the belt, last time I asked my dealer, he said they have never even replaced a belt on one! And as for the clutch, it's an "oil cooled" clutch, they absolutely are problem free too. Also, the low range in it, has a low enough gear along with all the low end torque the motor makes, you can go slow without any problems.....so you really need to use one for a time to know of what you speak!

1st ...who the hell would bring it to the dealer to replace a belt...you? also you do know they're trying to sell you on it?, it wouldn't be in their interest to tell you that sort of stuff
2nd... problem free clutch...OK what about life of the clutch...just because its oil cooled don't mean it doesn't wear out...look at any real manual ATV or dirt bike, or most motorcycles...all have oil cooled clutches and they all wear out.

think you should look into how a centrifugal clutch works...as soon as you reach the "engagement" RPM, if your not moving, theres something slipping, clutch or belt... (engagement rpm would be found with NO load tires off the ground...the more worn the clutch is the higher the engagement rpm would be

 

[Dirtboy]

Geez, for a second there I thought I was on an ATV forum .

 

[theswampthing]

The biggest log I've skidded with my 855 Wheel Horse was a 20' locust that was about 12" diameter, and it wasn't easy. Of course a bigger tractor will out pull it, but it works for small scale firewood production. No problem dragging smaller stuff down the mountain. I would love a 4x4 with an FEL, but this what I have.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

1st ...who the hell would bring it to the dealer to replace a belt...you? also you do know they're trying to sell you on it?, it wouldn't be in their interest to tell you that sort of stuff
2nd... problem free clutch...OK what about life of the clutch...just because its oil cooled don't mean it doesn't wear out...look at any real manual ATV or dirt bike, or most motorcycles...all have oil cooled clutches and they all wear out.

think you should look into how a centrifugal clutch works...as soon as you reach the "engagement" RPM, if your not moving, theres something slipping, clutch or belt... (engagement rpm would be found with NO load tires off the ground...the more worn the clutch is the higher the engagement rpm would be

Look, I'm personal friends with the folks that have sold Yamaha's here since the 70's... I'm not just a walk in customer, the parts guy is the owners son and grew up in the business and is a friend of mine... They had not even sold one belt to that date... The Yamaha is NOT like other belt drives, it does NOT wear belts out... You obviously don't know anything about what you are speaking of, or you would already know better!

As for the clutch: It's over sized and OIL COOLED, they just aren't a problem... UNLIKE other brands that will have some belts wear out ect...

Like I said, we have had two Grizzly's, still have one here on the farm that get's some HD work... Original belt, original clutch, neither has had any problems and the belt had never slipped, squeaked or make any other noises! They are under full tension all the time and just plain don't have problems.

That's after 15 years of pulling BIG loads of rock out of my fields and many loads of firewood! I've also pulled more than one car and a few dead tractors with it, so you have no credibility with me!

As for pulling loads "it shouldn't be pulling", (like a dead tractor) I put 4' lengths of rail road track on the racks for weight + in one case, I had my 400 pound neighbor driving it... lol

Did you see my WH above chained up with duals and weights? I have 6 old REAL garden tractors plus a MFWD Kubota... I know what a garden tractor will do, I also know what my Grizz will do and it will out pull any of my garden tractors...

SO, unless you ALSO have "both" to use over several months, you do not know how they compare and you do not know what you are talking about...

SR

BTW, I have TWO old Sears garden tractors, including a Suburban 12...

 

[Whitespider]

SO, unless you ALSO have "both" to use over several months, you do not know how they compare...

I've used both over several years... if both can find the needed traction...
The ATV will pull, what it pulls, faster...
The little tractor will out-pull the ATV, but it does it much slower...

Simple way to settle it... ...drive your ATV over here and we'll wrap a chain around the trailer balls. We'll use the hard-pack gravel road as the track and say the first guy to pull the other 100 yards from the start point is the winner. Go ahead and add all the weight you want; in fact, add enough so your wheels won't slip no matter how hard you mash the throttle... 'cause if ya' don't slip your wheels, I've got a side-bet that says your clutch goes up in smoke before we move 100 yards in either direction. An over-sized, heavy-duty clutch will take more abuse, but it still has a limit (they're all oil "cooled"... or oil bathed).
*

 

[gary s]

I gotta side with SR here. I have a 2000 Yamaha Kodiak from new here on my farm dragging and towing way more than recommended and still on original belt and anything else in the drive train. During most of that time I also had a 318 JD which is a very well made garden tractor, but it wouldn't pull like the Yammy in normal woods work.
Now to the OPs question about hauling wood with a Garden Tractor, sure can if that's what you got

 

[MechanicMatt]

@bigblue12v what did you decide to do with your kick @$$ tractor? Build a arch?

 

[bigblue12v]

@bigblue12v what did you decide to do with your kick @$$ tractor? Build a arch?

I have been so busy I haven't had time to do anything really, have used it to plow snow and haul my waste ash from my stove across the snowy frozen tundra that is my property. That's about it. The arch requires that I have a good way to load logs onto my truck, that's kind of the kicker. So far, the only way I can figure to do that is with a bed mounted crane. It's hard to picture that all of this offers any time savings over just bucking and hauling rounds. My idea was to avoid lifting heavy rounds and save time in the woods by trucking logs out and cutting up at my convenience at home. But I question which method is faster and easier. That's where I'm at.....

 

[mcb]

I can't imagine a yard tractor can pull much of a log.

betcha i can drag them to the truck faster than you can wrestle them in.

















Deere 140 skidding a full hitch uphill.:

deere 140 skidding:


keep in mind theyre pines. those two with the beer i can do on flat ground but not uphill yet. without diff lock, you need cutting brakes to steer during a wheelie and to stop the spinning tire when you lose traction and start churning a hole. lifting the log high for traction is critical, and so is having as much front end ballast as you can get, as far forward as you can get it. 26x12s are required for floatation. theyll take about 16 gallons each, my fronts hold 3 gallons per.

still, a little sand, loose rocks or a good branch round will break traction pretty easy so the condition of your trail system is critical. gotta groom the woods before you can get an undersize machine to do oversize work. 1 wheel drive will never replace a 4wd with diff lock. if i were to build another i would only start with diff lock and power steer.. two hardest things to add later.

 

[al-k]

I like to cut and split in the woods then haul it out with the cart. No mess to clean My helper

 

[Henry and Wanda]

Hello,
When I used to live in Maryland, my friend moved into a condo from a single family home. He asked me if I wanted his 1978 Hechinger MTD mower and cart. It has a twin 16hp Brigs. I said sure and proceeded to take off the mower deck and paint it camo. I have used it a lot and it is a great little tractor. I've since moved to Pa. on 18.5 acres and burn a lot of firewood that I cut and process. However, since I started to use the tractor more to haul firewood , I noticed it's one weak point. It doesn't weigh enough !!!
When I get a good load on the cart and hit a muddy or loose dirt area (especially going uphill) it will start to slip and lose traction (even with chains on ) !!!! I have had to half unload the cart just to get moving again. I still love the machine, but I thought I might need a heavier tractor. So, I started to look on the internet for something that was heavier, but not too expensive. I already own a bigger tractor....a 35 Hp New Holland with a cab and backhoe.....not real good in the mountains in tight spots. I found that the old Cub Lo-boys might be a good fix. They weigh about 1500 lbs....a lot more than the MTD....not much hp but the gears make up for that. So I found and bought a 1974 Cub Lo-boy for $1500. It was in great shape and was owned by one farm family all it's life. I took off the Woods mower deck and now have a great wood hauler. Even though it has turf tires, it really bites. I've thought about getting chains for it ( it has pretty big tires) but I haven't bit the bullet yet and sprung for them. So if any of you are having traction problems, this might be the fix for you.....it sure works good for me !!!!!! I named him Howard, after the grandfather that was the original purchaser !!!! Howard found a good home and earns his keep !!!!!

Henry and Wanda

 

[mcb]

always fill your tires first thing. next see if it wheelies or spins. if it spins add chains, if it wheelies add weight. cement is the cheapest.

 

[Fred Wright]

Ag tires with wheel weights or liquid filled tires are a good option. Weight should be on the wheels, not the axles. Many newer garden tractors and lawn buggies aren't designed to support weight on the frame or unibody.

A wheelie shouldn't be possible. If your tractor tries to stand on its hind legs you've likely got the point of pull above the rear axle.

Some things to bear in mind.

 

[Deleted member 135597]

Hello,
When I used to live in Maryland, my friend moved into a condo from a single family home. He asked me if I wanted his 1978 Hechinger MTD mower and cart. It has a twin 16hp Brigs. I said sure and proceeded to take off the mower deck and paint it camo. I have used it a lot and it is a great little tractor. I've since moved to Pa. on 18.5 acres and burn a lot of firewood that I cut and process. However, since I started to use the tractor more to haul firewood , I noticed it's one weak point. It doesn't weigh enough !!!
When I get a good load on the cart and hit a muddy or loose dirt area (especially going uphill) it will start to slip and lose traction (even with chains on ) !!!! I have had to half unload the cart just to get moving again. I still love the machine, but I thought I might need a heavier tractor. So, I started to look on the internet for something that was heavier, but not too expensive. I already own a bigger tractor....a 35 Hp New Holland with a cab and backhoe.....not real good in the mountains in tight spots. I found that the old Cub Lo-boys might be a good fix. They weigh about 1500 lbs....a lot more than the MTD....not much hp but the gears make up for that. So I found and bought a 1974 Cub Lo-boy for $1500. It was in great shape and was owned by one farm family all it's life. I took off the Woods mower deck and now have a great wood hauler. Even though it has turf tires, it really bites. I've thought about getting chains for it ( it has pretty big tires) but I haven't bit the bullet yet and sprung for them. So if any of you are having traction problems, this might be the fix for you.....it sure works good for me !!!!!! I named him Howard, after the grandfather that was the original purchaser !!!! Howard found a good home and earns his keep !!!!!

Henry and Wanda

 

[mcb]

Ag tires with wheel weights or liquid filled tires are a good option. Weight should be on the wheels, not the axles. Many newer garden tractors and lawn buggies aren't designed to support weight on the frame or unibody.

A wheelie shouldn't be possible. If your tractor tries to stand on its hind legs you've likely got the point of pull above the rear axle.

if u arent pulling from above the height of the rear then u cant lift the log. youre just dragging it in the dirt and now gonna wreck saw chain and bar back home. dont bother skidding if u dont intend to get them out of the dirt.


the natural layout of a mower prevents good winch location for skidding.. it would be best right in your lap. above and forward of the rear axle like a goose neck ball.

aluminum rear end housings shouldnt be doing this, that ill agree.

 

[mcb]

Heres a great vid to illustrate bad pulley placement. If the arch was 2 feet forward right over the axle, the load wouldnt be able to wheelie the machine because the leverage ratio of the fulcrum would be drastically less. And further still with grapple he could just grab a ballast log.




Notice something very important here.. No matter how much weight, power and traction... Logs layin flat are hard to move. This skidder only budges them when he starts to drop the nose down and the front end momentum creates enough leverage at the arch to boing the logs off the ground. Each time they raise up he gains another foot or two.

The problem here really is the arch location.. Hes teetering on that flip point like doing a wheelie with a shopping cart. If theyd stay up, he could just motor along. Got the power and the traction but not enough ballast for that compromised arch position.