Stihl 026 Rebuild/Upgrade

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If I can clean up my original cylinder "by hand with 150, 320 emery cloth and red scotch brite pad and then with a dremel", is there any reason that I could not similarly clean up the original piston and reuse it with some new rings?

NO! Don't do it. As mentioned that is your piston smeared on the cylinder.

That Cyl should clean up and get an OEM piston/rings and gasket/seal kit.

Do get an adjustable carb. Wt-194 if non-compensator, WT-426 if compensator. You will need this if you do a muffler mod and/or set squish.

I'd also replace impulse and fuel lines, and filters if they are damaged and/or worn out. Clean your air filter with warm soapy dish detergent, rinse well, and allow to dry. Scrubbing or high pressure air can damage the flocking, light air works O.K. to get off surface crud

Go over the clutch/oil pump/bar chain for any needed attention .

Pressure test before running.

Do a search here, most of the above is well covered in previous threads. If that don't help we will.
 
If I can clean up my original cylinder "by hand with 150, 320 emery cloth and red scotch brite pad and then with a dremel", is there any reason that I could not similarly clean up the original piston and reuse it with some new rings?

This can be done if the piston has some light scratches and scoring. Pistons are very soft when compared to the cylinder and rings. I have reused pistons before but I wouldn't even consider trying with yours. That piston is done.
 
I found an 026 parts manual and I've been working on the PNs I will need to buy for the overhaul. My SN is 134976153 so it looks like I will need the short fuel hose. My Walbro carburetor has 2 adjustment screws on the side and is stamped WT 194 C6.

Some questions:
  • For the clutch bearing, I see there are 2 PNs: 9512 003 2260 (CDN) & 9512 933 2260. What's the difference?
  • Does the Stihl piston kit (1121 030 2001) include the snap rings (9463 650 1000)? They're not listed but they appear in a catalog photo.
  • The wrist pin bearing (9512 003 2250) does not appear to be included in the piston kit. Am I correct?
  • Presumably, the WT-426 compensator carb compensates for a plugged-up air filter. Would I need a different air filter and add a compensator hose?
 
I would never run 50:1 regardless of what the manufacturer says!


I always get a chuckle when I hear that! I look at saws 20 years old plus, running 50:1 no piston failures, not much carbon build up BUT they are stock saws with thousands of cords of wood under their collective belts. Run a good quality oil, e-free gas and you should be fine.
 
I found an 026 parts manual and I've been working on the PNs I will need to buy for the overhaul. My SN is 134976153 so it looks like I will need the short fuel hose. My Walbro carburetor has 2 adjustment screws on the side and is stamped WT 194 C6.

Some questions:
  • For the clutch bearing, I see there are 2 PNs: 9512 003 2260 (CDN) & 9512 933 2260. What's the difference?
  • Does the Stihl piston kit (1121 030 2001) include the snap rings (9463 650 1000)? They're not listed but they appear in a catalog photo.
  • The wrist pin bearing (9512 003 2250) does not appear to be included in the piston kit. Am I correct?
  • Presumably, the WT-426 compensator carb compensates for a plugged-up air filter. Would I need a different air filter and add a compensator hose?

WT194 is a good carb, many blokes here have it on the saws with no issues. I have a tree service customer that has the hyway kit in his saw and I saw him today to ask him about how the saw has been performing. His muffler modded saw is running just fine. It blew 150 psi and the piston was nice and shiny. He is running the saw hard, doing ash tree removal. Also if you save the cylinder the piston is 30.00 from saw parts. Sadly the price decrease has not hit Canada yet and shipping from the states is mad money. You plan to make a living with this saw or just sue it for firewood and such?.
 
I found an 026 parts manual and I've been working on the PNs I will need to buy for the overhaul. My SN is 134976153 so it looks like I will need the short fuel hose. My Walbro carburetor has 2 adjustment screws on the side and is stamped WT 194 C6.

Some questions:
  • For the clutch bearing, I see there are 2 PNs: 9512 003 2260 (CDN) & 9512 933 2260. What's the difference?
  • Does the Stihl piston kit (1121 030 2001) include the snap rings (9463 650 1000)? They're not listed but they appear in a catalog photo.
  • The wrist pin bearing (9512 003 2250) does not appear to be included in the piston kit. Am I correct?
  • Presumably, the WT-426 compensator carb compensates for a plugged-up air filter. Would I need a different air filter and add a compensator hose?

The WT194 should be fine for your saw. If you are tearing it down for a clean and rebuild go ahead and purchase a kit for the carb. Be mindful of how you take it apart so you can put it back together the same way.

I see the difference in the part numbers you are speaking of with the CDN annotation on the clutch bearing. The dimensions are the same for each bearing (although I do not know what the "CDN" stands for. These bearings are $9.00ish here at the dealer.

The piston kit from Stihl will include the snap rings. Installing them is a bit of a challenge at times, but there is plenty of help here for that as well. Most of the piston kits come with one snap ring installed. The other should be in the box with the kit.

The wrist pin will not be included in your piston kit -- you are correct. Buy the OEM wrist pin bearing -- the quality is much better than the aftermarket ones (at least in my experience thus far). And to me there is no sense in wrecking a good rebuild over a $10.00 wrist pin bearing ;)

If you use the WT194 it is a carb without a compensator. Your saw will use the old style filter without the compensator. If perhaps you are forced to use a compensator type carb you can always swap the top from the WT194.

Hope you get it up and running soon.
 
Luckily for me, I live in a border town and have a friend who lives in Buffalo so I often buy stuff in the USA.

I have an outdoor furnace (Central Boiler E-Classic 1400) that I bought a few years ago under a federal home improvement tax credit. I use it for home heating and mostly avoid burning natural gas during the winter. With the emerald ash borer infestation here, I've been using my saw a lot more. A property owner nearby has over 30 large ash trees that he wants me to remove for him. Once those are gone, he has more that he wants cut.

My guess is that CDN means Canadian. I'm not sure if this would have been Stihl option or a requirement of the marketplace.

As for the piston kit, my Stihl parts manual shows PN 1121 030 2001 containing:
  • Stihl 1121 034 3010 (Ring - Ø 44x1.2mm, 2)
  • Stihl 1121 034 1505 (Wrist Pin)
The photo in OEM GENUINE STIHL 026 MS 260 PISTON 44MM 1121 030 2001 shows the wrist pin and snap rings included.
 
I emailed some parts suppliers for rebuild pricing and they have been very slow to respond. So far, just my local Stihl dealer (Lapp Cycle)and SawParts Canada have replied. I'm waiting to hear from Niagara Saw as I stopped in earlier this week to follow-up on my quote and they wanted to know if I have a thick or thin cylinder gasket. I've been busy lately on cutting more ash to focus on fixing my saw.

To answer my earlier post, I see from pure-gas.org, I can get ethanol-free 91-octane gas at Shell, Esso, Canadian Tire, Costo, and Ultramar. Delta Sonic sells e-free gas in Cheekotowaga, NY. Luckily, there's a Canadian Tire and Shell in Fort Erie in case I don't feel like going over the river.
 
I got the cylinder off and, to my untrained eye, it doesn't look too bad. The exhaust side of the piston is scuffed and the rings are flush with the skirt. The rod doesn't appear to have any play on the crankshaft. Any guesses as to what would cause this sort of wear?

I see that Tecomec is an Italian company. Someone here recommended that I also look at SawParts Canada for parts and they appear to sell Hyway, which is a Taiwanese company. Weedeaterman lists its 026 Top End Kit for US$145.99 (~ C$189.79) while SawParts Canada lists its Nikasil 026 Top End Kit for C$89.99. Is the Tecomec top end kit really C$100 better than the Hyway?

I have an 026 that needs work, so I'm following this thread. Do you have a small air compressor? They are real handy for blowing sawdust and oily dirt off the engine. I did notice a lot of crud there on your saw. As the years go by that stuff builds up in there, and your saw can start running too hot. Also, if it's not clean when you remove the top end, dirt can fall down into the crankcase. Looks like you're on the right track there with the rebuild. Also, here's a hint about posting pics. If you can, adjust the settings in your camera to a lower resolution for web posting. That way, the pics will load a lot faster for those of us that have slower internet speeds. Good luck with your project.
 
I emailed some parts suppliers for rebuild pricing and they have been very slow to respond. So far, just my local Stihl dealer (Lapp Cycle)and SawParts Canada have replied. I'm waiting to hear from Niagara Saw as I stopped in earlier this week to follow-up on my quote and they wanted to know if I have a thick or thin cylinder gasket. I've been busy lately on cutting more ash to focus on fixing my saw.

To answer my earlier post, I see from pure-gas.org, I can get ethanol-free 91-octane gas at Shell, Esso, Canadian Tire, Costo, and Ultramar. Delta Sonic sells e-free gas in Cheekotowaga, NY. Luckily, there's a Canadian Tire and Shell in Fort Erie in case I don't feel like going over the river.

Pretty much all the Gas stations in Ontario that sell the high octane fuel are E-free. Esso, Sunnoco, Petrocan Ctire, even Cosco no need to cross the bridge just for gas.
 
That piston is crap. Throw it out.

You really shoulda blown off that saw good before disassembly. It's gonna be a bear to keep stuff out of the crankcase during reassembly. I've been there too bud, in a rush to see what's up. Gotta clean before hand.

If you're deciding Huztl, eBay is cheaper than what you're stating. You need to measure your cylinder to confirm its a 44mm and not a 44.7mm. There's a seller on eBay that's got OEM 44.7 piston with rings for $25 shipped.

I'd stuff paper towel in that crankcase, tape the rod up with some masking tape, and clea that saw off before you do anything else.
 
Come on, guys, wouldn't a bunch of sawdust down in there quiet the gear noise? Sheesh! :D
 
That piston is crap. Throw it out.
I'm going to clean up my old cylinder and use a new piston. I haven't decided which one to buy yet.

You really shoulda blown off that saw good before disassembly. It's gonna be a bear to keep stuff out of the crankcase during reassembly. I've been there too bud, in a rush to see what's up. Gotta clean before hand. ... I'd stuff paper towel in that crankcase, tape the rod up with some masking tape, and clean that saw off before you do anything else.
I realized as I was taking it apart that I probably should have cleaned it off first. I don't think any sawdust got into the crankcase so I was thinking that I could put it back together, clean it off, and then disassemble it again for the rebuild.

If you're deciding Huztl, eBay is cheaper than what you're stating. You need to measure your cylinder to confirm its a 44mm and not a 44.7mm. There's a seller on eBay that's got OEM 44.7 piston with rings for $25 shipped.
Huztl?

I double-checked my cylinder and it is definitely 44 mm. My cylinder gasket is about 1 mm thick.
 
No need to argue semantics. Although cleaning the cylinder without acid is not technically "honing"it is removing the transfer and returning the surfaces of the cylinder to a usable form. I have been a member here long enough to remember the debates about honing. I made a few tests of my own and the results varied accord to the amount of damage inside the cylinder. If you use a scotch brite pad or a scotch brite ball you are polishing the inside of the cylinder. It may be argued at a different rate or with a less aggressive medium -- nevertheless the end result is a usable cylinder.

Personally the Hutzl cylinders for the 026 and MS260 have not gotten good reviews here. There may be some new information in this regard, however it is my conviction that a cleaned up OEM cylinder and nice Meteor piston will make you a happy sawyer if the other variables in the rebuild process are cared for. Get this saw up and running, you will be glad you did.
 

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