falling a tree..proper cut locations

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Questions to the fallers. Coos bay for moderate leaners and bore cut for heavy leaners? Of course there are variations with the kind of tree (the stringy tough Elm wouldn't chair easily and the coos would not be workable for a hollow tree). Could you say the safest procedure when in doubt is the bore cut for leaners? And the bore would tell early if the tree is hollow. Comments?
 
Except for some testing with the coos bay cuts, I have always used the bore cut on leaners. I'll try almost anything that doesn't sound too crazy when it doesn't matter if things go wrong. I have yet to see a tree that would be better dropped with a coos bay cut instead of boring.
 
On a heavy leaner you need to be very aware of a potential for a barber chair. A bore cut where you leave a nice back holding strap will avoid that outcome. Set your notch and establish the hinge with a bore cut. When you are ready, make that final back cut to allow the tree to fall.
 
On a heavy leaner you need to be very aware of a potential for a barber chair. A bore cut where you leave a nice back holding strap will avoid that outcome.
Any of the techniques for reducing the time it takes to get thru the back cut will help reduce the likelihood of a barber chair. However, to paraphrase Gologit, the day you start thinking you and your saw have the final say in what a tree does, is the day you get hurt. Leave a bit to much hinge, or get a tree with an unidentified internal defect, and that leaner could chair out the moment you release the strap. Never assume your knowledge and technique will always result in the outcome you expect, and be prepared for the tree to do just the opposite of what you intended. Professional tree fallers die on the job with saddening regularity. Don't assume you are immune because you've read a book or watched an internet video.
 
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