stihl ms 362

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I "lurned" to sharpen a chain about when I learned to spell.

Sharp chain will bog a saw faster than a dull one, unless you screw up the rakers.
Depends how you sharpen it sir .chain i run for my 75cc would bog a 60 cc saw ,i hear what you are saying ,there are lots of 60cc saws felling trees around here with 28 inch bars daily ,full skip helps the smaller powerheads when the bar is longer,grinding square chisel helps too ,what works out North West ,may not be ideal for Northeast though .I see you caught my spelling ;) i ran a 28 inch bar on my 036,and 034 ,it worked fine ,the 362 should have a little more power than they did .I run full skip .404 on an ms440 with a 32 inch bar ,it works fine also in this area .
 
Depends how you sharpen it sir .chain i run for my 75cc would bog a 60 cc saw ,i hear what you are saying ,there are lots of 60cc saws felling trees around here with 28 inch bars daily ,full skip helps the smaller powerheads when the bar is longer,grinding square chisel helps too ,what works out North West ,may not be ideal for Northeast though .I see you caught my spelling ;) i ran a 28 inch bar on my 036,and 034 ,it worked fine ,the 362 should have a little more power than they did .I run full skip .404 on an ms440 with a 32 inch bar ,it works fine also in this area .


O.K. I'll bite.

Since you mentioned sharpening and not chain you must mean the same chain on the 60cc and 75cc saws. As I mentioned the only thing that makes sense to me is setting the raker depth more shallow for the smaller saws or bigger bars. If you have a way to sharpen the cutters different please enlighten us.

I run 33RS or RSC for all my saws from the 036 to my 056M/066. I sharpen them the same way. The rakers get filed deeper with bigger saws and/or shorter bars/soft vs hardwoods. Sometimes I will run an 8 pin with bigger saws and short bars for more chain speed.

I would love to know a way to sharpen chains so my 036 will pull a 28" bar so I could leave those heavy 038/056/066 at home.

I have dropped 50" hardwoods with a super XL but it was not fun fast or easy, and I'm surprised that old saw is still running. I would not try that now given the saws I now own and would turn to my 90cc saws.
 
I've heard a ported Echo 600p will cut right with a stock ms461. Powerhead would be 1 1/2 lbs. lighter and (even after porting), cost about $200 less. What's your thoughts on this since you've done a nice port job on a 600p?
This post is not just silly......its funny too!:laugh: I've 'heard' that a ported............o_O
 
O.K. I'll bite.

Since you mentioned sharpening and not chain you must mean the same chain on the 60cc and 75cc saws. As I mentioned the only thing that makes sense to me is setting the raker depth more shallow for the smaller saws or bigger bars. If you have a way to sharpen the cutters different please enlighten us.

I run 33RS or RSC for all my saws from the 036 to my 056M/066. I sharpen them the same way. The rakers get filed deeper with bigger saws and/or shorter bars/soft vs hardwoods. Sometimes I will run an 8 pin with bigger saws and short bars for more chain speed.

I would love to know a way to sharpen chains so my 036 will pull a 28" bar so I could leave those heavy 038/056/066 at home.

I have dropped 50" hardwoods with a super XL but it was not fun fast or easy, and I'm surprised that old saw is still running. I would not try that now given the saws I now own and would turn to my 90cc saws.
First do not try to cut 50 inch wood with an 036 ,in smaller stuff ,Try a full skip chain ,with about a 15 degree top angle ,ground square and rakers set.020-.025 ,i am talking for softwoods like cedar or alder or fir ..not hard maple or oak ,it will not cut as powerful as a 75cc saw ,but it should cut without bogging ,i would not cut 28 inch wood all day with this setup ,but if 20 inch or smaller should be fine all day ,the extra reach of the 28 is nice when have to limb so not reaching too much ,or hunched over .on the rakers thing ,a lot of guys seem to think that makes them cut better to get aggressive there ,seems to bog the saw too much in my opinion ,plus round teeth are grabby to begin with making it even worse .I ran a 28 inch oregon light on my 036 ,it balanced real close to a 20 inch es .It had muffler mod ,and base gasket removed ,otherwise stock saw .036r 255.jpg 036r 255.jpg
 
So it's not so much the filling but skip chain too.

15 degrees is close to milling chain? Why?

0.025" rakers are what I use, 0.020" is probably where I'm at after several sharpenings before touching up the rakers. The only time I go deeper is in white pine/big saw/short bar. My cutting is 95% hardwoods.
 
So it's not so much the filling but skip chain too.

15 degrees is close to milling chain? Why?

0.025" rakers are what I use, 0.020" is probably where I'm at after several sharpenings before touching up the rakers. The only time I go deeper is in white pine/big saw/short bar. My cutting is 95% hardwoods.
are you running square or round cutters ? The 15 degrees is less aggressive and gives a smoother cut .the square helps a lot also ,a good square chain is like adding 10cc to your saw some guys will say .the 15 degrees also will stay sharp longer ,on my 75 cc i run about a 15-20 degree top plate ,i normally do not touch the rakers for about 3-4 sharpens
I have seen vid of guys cutting big pines with a 660 and a 20 inch bar in a 35 inch tree ,seems like they are wasting energy walking around the tree cutting it down ,i would rather stand on one side ,make 3 strait cuts and be done .
 
So it's not so much the filling but skip chain too.

15 degrees is close to milling chain? Why?

0.025" rakers are what I use, 0.020" is probably where I'm at after several sharpenings before touching up the rakers. The only time I go deeper is in white pine/big saw/short bar. My cutting is 95% hardwoods.
He is talking about square ground chain not round. And TRX is absolutely right when he says you can file a chain for different powerheads and wood densities. The is a LOT more to it than just raker hieght (which should be looked at in a 'progressive' way) not just whether it is .015 or .020.
 
This post is not just silly......its funny too!:laugh: I've 'heard' that a ported............o_O

I tend to believe what he said since his 600p and the 461 (his also) were running 20" bars. Like Brad said, probably not going to happen with longer bars. Have you run a ported 600p against a 441 & 461 like he has? Do you have some first hand experience and thus, some valuable insight on this subject that you'd like to share with us?

BTW: His 600p was ported by a very well known member of this site;).
 
are you running square or round cutters ? The 15 degrees is less aggressive and gives a smoother cut .the square helps a lot also ,a good square chain is like adding 10cc to your saw some guys will say .the 15 degrees also will stay sharp longer ,on my 75 cc i run about a 15-20 degree top plate ,i normally do not touch the rakers for about 3-4 sharpens
I have seen vid of guys cutting big pines with a 660 and a 20 inch bar in a 35 inch tree ,seems like they are wasting energy walking around the tree cutting it down ,i would rather stand on one side ,make 3 strait cuts and be done .
I will also say I run the same semi skip 32's on my 562 as my 395 and cut the same wood with them.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
First do not try to cut 50 inch wood with an 036 ,in smaller stuff ,Try a full skip chain ,with about a 15 degree top angle ,ground square and rakers set.020-.025 ,i am talking for softwoods like cedar or alder or fir ..not hard maple or oak ,it will not cut as powerful as a 75cc saw ,but it should cut without bogging ,i would not cut 28 inch wood all day with this setup ,but if 20 inch or smaller should be fine all day ,the extra reach of the 28 is nice when have to limb so not reaching too much ,or hunched over .on the rakers thing ,a lot of guys seem to think that makes them cut better to get aggressive there ,seems to bog the saw too much in my opinion ,plus round teeth are grabby to begin with making it even worse .I ran a 28 inch oregon light on my 036 ,it balanced real close to a 20 inch es .It had muffler mod ,and base gasket removed ,otherwise stock saw .View attachment 459866 View attachment 459866

Ive ran 28" on my 362 cuttin smaller logs on the ground to firewood lengths with no issue at all.
 
He is talking about square ground chain not round. And TRX is absolutely right when he says you can file a chain for different powerheads and wood densities. The is a LOT more to it than just raker hieght (which should be looked at in a 'progressive' way) not just whether it is .015 or .020.
Fred Knows Chains and Stuffs.
 
What is "just fine" to one user may not be to others, it is a matter of expectations.

Also, there are better 60cc saws than the MS362 out there, all made by Husky - but there are lots of worse ones out there as well.

I'm shocked. Oh wait its you, makes sense now. Sawtroll whatcha been up to old man? Are you still running around this site pushing them Husqvarna saws, yes I believe you are, been spying on ya tonight.
Let me finish what you forgot to put in your quote there. All made by Husky but all outsold by Stihl, There ya ole timer, now that's telling it like it really is. Glad I could help you out...
 
Maybe I'll get this discussion back on track...if you are planning on running a 25" bar(24" to be exact, Stihl is dumb like that) in hardwoods with a 362, you are gonna be disappointed. Not only will it be underpowered, it will be poorly balanced.

24" bars are 70cc+ territory E of the Rockies. A 461 is top of the heap, but a lot of saw for a relatively inexperienced youngin'...
 
did some checkin on the 441 magnum, there is a pretty big price bump on that old bugger. might be out of the Christmas budget as i know the 362 even with my discount was getting real close to the budget, family isnt poor but not exactly rich either. it basically boils down to what is affordable at this point
 
The 362 is a fine saw and will get a lot of wood cut. You can cut some pretty large wood with a 20 in bar.
 
instead of cutting down trees we usually have my uncle come and dig the roots out and push them over with his back hoe,

Maybe it's just me but that sounds real dangerous if the tree as large as you are talking comes down wrong on back hoe and operator. Conventional felling of the tree and then dealing with the stump is much safer.
 
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