064 repair project

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Ok - got the muffler off earlier on - man if only it was as easy to get the complete exhaust system off a car ;)

I didn't see any heat shield/reflector foil though, see here:

[photo=medium]3311[/photo]

I did sort of expect to see this, since big t double mentions one in his thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/064-project.257530/#post-4819798

and it's got part number 1128 084 8302. So I'm not sure why it won't there - is it an optional extra for hotter countries or something?
 
Managed to sneak a glance at piston and intake cylinder wall. There's light scuffs on the exhaust side of the piston - but I may ignore that for now.

[photo=medium]3312[/photo]

[photo=medium]3315[/photo]

The cylinder what I could see did not look too bad. You can't really see much here, but here goes:

[photo=medium]3314[/photo]

I'm not sure what the compression should be... but I guess if it's more than 160psi... I should be ok with that piston me thinks.
 
Looks pretty good Matt. Those scuffs are probably caused by carbon deposits falling back into the cylinder, so if I were you I'd clean all that crap out of the exhaust port before you put the exhaust back on.
 
Looks pretty good Matt. Those scuffs are probably caused by carbon deposits falling back into the cylinder, so if I were you I'd clean all that crap out of the exhaust port before you put the exhaust back on.
Yeah I thought it looked pretty clean too. Certainly take your advice regards cleaning that carbon out.

BTW do you know anything about having a reflector foil hidden away between the bottom of the muffler and the top of the crankcase? It was shown in my IPL for the saw - have you ever come across one on a stihl before?
 
The foil is usually there, sometimes it comes loose or gets crinkled up from someone puttin the muffler back on.

When you buy a gasket kit a new foil come with it. I've never tried to buy one separate, I was never too worried if it wasn't on there
 
The foil is usually there, sometimes it comes loose or gets crinkled up from someone puttin the muffler back on.

When you buy a gasket kit a new foil come with it. I've never tried to buy one separate, I was never too worried if it wasn't on there
Knowing me (a tad obsessive) I'll probably try to replace it since it seems that it's actually missing.

Do you get this heat reflection foil stuff on all stihl logging saws?

(the only saw I've ever fully stripped before was a 200t - and now I come to think that one did have a silvered layer on the inner surface of the tank housing)
 
If I understand what you're saying, you think that there should be foil on the tank, but you don't think there is?
Either my eyes are deceiving me or you need to get clearing more of the crap off that saw!:D
comparisonCapture.jpg


Like Deets says, it tends to come loose (a combination of oil and saw dust) and either get shoved out of the way or pulled off. I've had a couple where I've just needed to flatten it out again, scrap all the crap off the sticky side and put it back in place. I don't think it's anything special, so a decent thickness of foil duct tape would be a suitable alternative if needed. Definitely a good idea on the underside of the top cover as I think we've all seen saws with either a hole through or the front edge burnt off where a leaking muffler has been left to cause problems.
 
Hey Dan!

That saw's pretty clean there right now - can't prove it at the moment - since I'm an early bird I'm heading for the hills in a sec. All that crud you could see was just a mix of oil/sawdust/grit - it came off really soon with a few brushings of diesel and blasts of air.

The thing you pointed at with the red arrow was either a shrivelled label or a broken up fragment of the existing foil - anyway it's gone now....

So does the new foil from stihl come with self adhesive backing or something?

Anyway I'm signing off now :havingarest: and the wife seems to want her laptop back...

later
Matt
 

Thanks again Dan,

Anyway we are now suffering an annoying and unfortunate setback to 064 work....

the drip rate of the leaking kitchen mixer tap has accelerated from a drip every 20 minutes to once every 2-3 seconds :mad:

and "Mad Matt" has attacked it after work... the expected mix of old/new/copper/plastic fittings was encountered...

a couple of isolators were fitted, but I now need to fork out for a new tap and waste valuable chainsaw time finishing the job :(

Hopefully normal service will be resumed soon - will keep you posted!
 
Ok... definitely having what could be called problems right now. My pressure/vac test seems to suggest that the engine does not pressurise or hold any vacuum at all. I did post a while back how I was going to do my test and some of said that you did your tests slightly differently but I think the consensus was that my plan was sound. I'll tell you again and show piccy and maybe you'll agree "yes thats fine - you must be leaking" or "no your equipment is all wrong". So I...

1. cut tube rubber to block exhaust, and snug the muffler tight to this
2. screw spark plug down snug
3. make an alloy plate and cut tube rubber and some metal pipes down to seal intake

[photo=medium]3345[/photo]

4. as you can see I push the mityvac gauge onto the impulse hose hole

I assume that my method is fine and leaks in boot/seals/gaskets should be shown up. I've some good experience of doing this on an ms200t - so I have some idea of what I'm doing - but anyone can see something completely wrong in my test setup please shout out!!

Anyway whatever I did, the gauge would not apply pressure or vacuum at all, for any time. (I did test my gauge and it's fine). Can these engines get that bad?? (Perhaps that bad result could mean split boot - but as said - I did manage to start the saw a few weeks back)

The second problem. So I thought - ok I'll strip it some more. So I can put on soapy water to see where leak is. Clutch come off ok. I loosened the flywheel nut - ok. Then I tried the way to take off the wheel that I've read about - and I used successfully on my 2oot - light taps to crank end - with nut on loose to protect. Whilst I did this I tried holding the powerhead by the wheel - and I also tried with (gentle!!) prying behind the wheel. The flywheel is pretty stuck still. So does this method sometimes just not work? Do you sometimes have to bite the bullet and buy the proper puller?

Any advice and words of support gratefully received,

Matt
 
I'd start spraying soapy water now and see if you find the leak. You might not have to mess with the flywheel. A leak that big will be pretty obvious, sometimes you can hear them also.
 
I'd start spraying soapy water now and see if you find the leak. You might not have to mess with the flywheel. A leak that big will be pretty obvious, sometimes you can hear them also.
Thanks Whiskers, I'll give it a go tomorrow.

What I was thinking might make the wheel easier - if I need it off - is if I have the saw lying clutch side down and tip oil and diesel in the center of the wheel and leave for a few days. May well loosen things up a bit.
 
Hi Matt,

If you can't register anything +/- you've probably not got something sealed up as well as it should be. I know it sounds straightforward but I can have lots of fun just getting the sealing strip to sit properly behind the exhaust on some saws, so start by checking anything you've done, then move on to the usual suspects; crank seals, etc.

I'm in negotiations for an 064 at the minute, so I'm watching your progress with interest :)
 
Hi Matt,

If you can't register anything +/- you've probably not got something sealed up as well as it should be. I know it sounds straightforward but I can have lots of fun just getting the sealing strip to sit properly behind the exhaust on some saws, so start by checking anything you've done, then move on to the usual suspects; crank seals, etc.

I'm in negotiations for an 064 at the minute, so I'm watching your progress with interest :)

Thanks Dan,
Yes, I kind of wondered about my setup. Perhaps I'll play with the muffler side of things a bit tomorrow - as I've got the day off work :happybanana:

I'm pretty sure about the rig I've done on the intake, my little system of ally plate borne down on rubber by the 2 tubes seems ok - I did take it apart a while and you see the old imprints on the rubber made by the intake quite well.

I'm always kinda of nervous not to over tighten stuff at first.

Anyway it's feet up time now...

(good luck with your 064 - I hope you're lucky...)
 
Nothing to do with my current plight of trying to figure out my leak and maybe pull my flywheel if ness...

I wondered does anyone know an easy way of knowing which intake manifold I should buy if I decide I need one?

My ipl gives me a choice of 2

1122 141 2201
or
1122 141 2200

mine seems to have 2 raised lumps inside which the inner sleeve "locks" into. You might be able to see that here:

[photo=medium]3306[/photo]

thanks
Matt
 
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