Skidding winch for the tractor

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Yeah, 30mm seems to be the bolt/shaft size. I was still surprised that my adjustable wrench looked tiny compared to it.

That would be close to my bush measuring. I was guessing 47-48mm. So, a 2" adjustable it is. Thanks for the info.

Shea
When I did mine the other night I had to use a medium pipe wrench, and I have some 36mm axle sockets that weren't close. Although we have two totally different brands of winch they sound close in shaft size.
Here's what mine looked at behind the front plate and the spring I was saying that I forgot to put in before replacing the drum :dumb2: lol.
The hole in the drum/spool by the center is the wire rope/cable holder, my 8yr old said thats what is was befor we took it apart o_O. I pulled all the cable out before I removed the drum/spool. I can't imagine trying to do it with 200'+ of cable on there.
This model had no hole or slot around the rim of the drum to put the cable in as you pulled the drum out and with the cage that goes around the drum being within .25" there was no way to remove the drum without first removing the cable . On this one the axle is also a carriage bolt of sorts that can be tapped out the plow side of the winch. When I removed the drum to put the spring in that is what I did(leaving it in a little so the clutch and gear didnt come loose) and it came out very easy compared to leaving it in like I did the first time:clap:. When I put the drum back in I put the nut on the axle and was able to pull on that while pushing the drum back with my feet until the drum hit the spring.20160315_222313.jpg 20160315_222308.jpg
 
I also have to say I just don't understand why no place that I know of in the south sells these things........surprising.

Shea
The nearest dealer for mine is over 2 hrs away. Dealer requirements are very low but I am within his territory. Talking to the company rep who sets up the dealerships, they have a long way to go with saturating the market, not per him, but me. There version of dealer supported advertising was in my mind weak at best.
The only time I've seen anything is a couple utube videos and a few craigslist ads on the ne coast. I can think of many other places to advertise. If I wasn't in the other guys territory I would set myself up as a dealer and then try to bolster their advertising here, with a few sales and a little persistance they may be willing to do pay for more advertising in our region. As it is I will be talking to the other dealer about becoming a sub-dealer or doing sales for him, you may want to do the same.
 
I liked the hinged dozer blade on the Norse 4500 I believe it was.View attachment 492551
Nice picture, but I can't see the sled:).
Does the blade hinge come into play mainly driving over stumps. I could see it helping if it was real tracked out.
Mine goes almost as high as my axles when set up properly on the tractor and thats on a CUT (kubota l3800).
Looks like that one rides plenty high as well.
 
Nice picture, but I can't see the sled:).
Does the blade hinge come into play mainly driving over stumps. I could see it helping if it was real tracked out.
Mine goes almost as high as my axles when set up properly on the tractor and thats on a CUT (kubota l3800).
Looks like that one rides plenty high as well.
Lol.
The hinged dozer rides over ground obsticles like rocks and stumps, but can also be pinned so that it doesnt hinge.
In the hinged position it allows to stack logs and random firewood lengths on the landing.
Unhinged it works great as a trail building blade.
 
Lol.
The hinged dozer rides over ground obsticles like rocks and stumps, but can also be pinned so that it doesnt hinge.
In the hinged position it allows to stack logs and random firewood lengths on the landing.
Unhinged it works great as a trail building blade.
Could you explain how you stack logs with it, never seen that beforethat I'm aware of.
 
Could you explain how you stack logs with it, never seen that beforethat I'm aware of.
On the bottom of the blade at both ends are two curved 1/2" thick hooks, so while backing into a log and lifting at the same time, it allows stacking to a certain extent.
While driving off said stack, the blade hinges so as not to undo what was already done.
 
Gypo, that's a BIG stick! I get some bigger ones, every once in a while too,

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I use my 268xp,

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to block them up,

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You get a LOT of firewood FAST with those big logs! lol

SR
 
On the bottom of the blade at both ends are two curved 1/2" thick hooks, so while backing into a log and lifting at the same time, it allows stacking to a certain extent.
While driving off said stack, the blade hinges so as not to undo what was already done.
So when you do that do you have the log choked like a third of the way down the log to help get the other end off the ground.
Mine has a hitch on it and I can use that to get the opposite end up pretty high doing that. I wish the PO would not have welded it to the skidder. I would like to be able to put a 6" drop hitch in it or have another piece that was designed to hold the butt down while lifting. Doing it like I do is sketchy as the log could come off the hitch and the opposite end will fall. Not a big deal, but more control is nice and I would carry logs out of the woods that way depending on the location instead of skidding them if time allowed. I also use this technique to load a trailer when the logs get heavy.
 
So when you do that do you have the log choked like a third of the way down the log to help get the other end off the ground.
Mine has a hitch on it and I can use that to get the opposite end up pretty high doing that. I wish the PO would not have welded it to the skidder. I would like to be able to put a 6" drop hitch in it or have another piece that was designed to hold the butt down while lifting. Doing it like I do is sketchy as the log could come off the hitch and the opposite end will fall. Not a big deal, but more control is nice and I would carry logs out of the woods that way depending on the location instead of skidding them if time allowed. I also use this technique to load a trailer when the logs get heavy.
I believe hes talking about stacking (decking) by basically pushing the logs into a stack, mostly done with cable skidders and their dozer blade...but its the same principle for a 3 point winch setup...
here's a video that shows it pretty good, skip in to about 50 seconds...then in again to about 8 minutes in
 
I believe hes talking about stacking (decking) by basically pushing the logs into a stack, mostly done with cable skidders and their dozer blade...but its the same principle for a 3 point winch setup...
here's a video that shows it pretty good, skip in to about 50 seconds...then in again to about 8 minutes in

Thanks O9.
 
I wish the PO would not have welded it to the skidder. I would like to be able to put a 6" drop hitch in it or have another piece that was designed to hold the butt down while lifting.

I'd like to see a good pict. of it welded (how it's welded in), can you get me some??

SR
 
I'd like to see a good pict. of it welded (how it's welded in), can you get me some??

SR
Hey Rob.
It's welded all the way around, so much so I can't tell where the factory welds are vs the ones that they did. It almost looks as if it is a factory piece that went to the outside of the vertical support you can see.
Here's a couple pictures. Sorry they are not the best it's a bit dark lol.1458263049824.jpg1458263143029.jpg In this picture you can see the axle/pin that the drum rides on just left of the hitch. You can also see that the hitch has a ball on the bottom as well. I may cut the bottom ball off (it's welded on) and weld a Reese style receiver onto the bottom of this one and onto the vertical support.
In this picture you can see the very bottom of a nut that is welded on to the vertical support any ideas what that is for guys.
1458263235446.jpg
 
I see a pretty good crack in the first pict.... It NEEDS to be fixed!

Personally, I'd torch it out and make a huge improvement in it, welding in a female receiver tube so it would take std. slide in hitches...

I'm tired, so I may not have got all the wording right, but you know what I mean... lol

SR
 
I'd like to see a good pict. of it welded (how it's welded in), can you get me some??

SR
This a hitch that was added to mine by the PO. I have never used it . Not a close up, I will look at it and get closer pictures the next trip to the bush. I think it is welded to the upper winch unit as the lower plate can swing if you take out the locks for it. Norse 400 winch, B414 IH diesel, Power steering ,loaded rear tires. Old, reliable and not expensive.
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I see a pretty good crack in the first pict.... It NEEDS to be fixed!

Personally, I'd torch it out and make a huge improvement in it, welding in a female receiver tube so it would take std. slide in hitches...

I'm tired, so I may not have got all the wording right, but you know what I mean... lol

SR
I think I get uour wording, I must be tired also, maybe the cord of wood I just bucked and loaded:).
I don't see any cracks, and I don't think it will go anywhere, they have pretty good welds on it except the one spot on the top in the first picture.
There is not a continual bead that runs down the whole side so there is a "crack" there, maybe that is what you see, I will look again tomorrow.
Is this what you where talking about, even have choices;).1458265426207.jpg
 
It looks like a black line in the pict, it looks like a crack.... it surely could be something else...

Yes, those are the receiver tubes, I'd make them adjustable, or at least removable, but perhaps the way you use your winch that wouldn't be an advantage?

Not a bad job to do if you have a torch and welder, it just takes time...

SR
 
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