Metal handle splitting axe.

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hardhat

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Had an axe like this my father made a long time ago. Used it for 3 cords and had carpel tunnel so bad that I was in pain for weeks. The vibrations on each split add up.
 
You will get no shock absorption with the metal handle, even if you pad it up somehow its gonna be murder on you. 1 miss-hit and you will wish you had never thought of this idea.
 
You will get no shock absorption with the metal handle, even if you pad it up somehow its gonna be murder on you. 1 miss-hit and you will wish you had never thought of this idea.

Have used it for about 3 years splitting wood. There is definitely some vibration, but hasn't bothered me yet. The main thing I like about it, is that there is no way that handle is coming out. you can whack a piece of wood with the handle right below the head and no harm done other than rattling you a bit. I have this, a metal handled axe and a metal handle shovel. They are always there when the handles are broke out of the other stuff.

Larry
 
Buy a Fiskars.

You're working way too hard and wearing out your joints way too much for what you're accomplishing in that video. Go for less fatigue today and less aches & pains as you grow older.

Leave the thing you're using for the gnarliest pieces if you insist on trying to split them (I just noodle now with a chainsaw).

The tires on the ground idea intrigues me a bit -- I used to like to setup up, oh 6 to 8 blocks on the ground when I used a maul and walk down the row splitting. I'm wondering if the same idea but with the tires lined up diagonal so you could whack from three sides as you walk up and down the row?
 
Have used it for about 3 years splitting wood. There is definitely some vibration, but hasn't bothered me yet. The main thing I like about it, is that there is no way that handle is coming out. you can whack a piece of wood with the handle right below the head and no harm done other than rattling you a bit. I have this, a metal handled axe and a metal handle shovel. They are always there when the handles are broke out of the other stuff.

Larry

Keyword there. It is a cumulative effect. You could get a bad stinger once or it could just feel like a little vibration here and there, its not a good thing.
 
Looks like it works good for you, no denying that wood split good.. Me, I would have to wear shock padded gloves though.

I was wondering what might be some sort of compromise, never built one, but thought about a wooden handle with a steel core.
 
Buy a Fiskars.

You're working way too hard and wearing out your joints way too much for what you're accomplishing in that video. Go for less fatigue today and less aches & pains as you grow older.

Leave the thing you're using for the gnarliest pieces if you insist on trying to split them (I just noodle now with a chainsaw).

The tires on the ground idea intrigues me a bit -- I used to like to setup up, oh 6 to 8 blocks on the ground when I used a maul and walk down the row splitting. I'm wondering if the same idea but with the tires lined up diagonal so you could whack from three sides as you walk up and down the row?

I definately agree.

Looks like you're working way too hard with that heavy maul. Don't get me wrong I'm not telling you what to do, but for $40 right now, you should seriously consider trying a Fiskars. The decrease in splitting effort will really suprise you once you get the hang of how to use it.

I have an all steel 8# maul used to start chunking up rounds, but when I got one chunk busted off, I pick up my Fiskars and can do twice the work with half the effort.

Also, I have never understood why people split from one side of the round. Side step around the dang thing as you're splitting. It will not only save you broken handles, but also save you from shock.
 
I definately agree.

Looks like you're working way too hard with that heavy maul. Don't get me wrong I'm not telling you what to do, but for $40 right now, you should seriously consider trying a Fiskars. The decrease in splitting effort will really suprise you once you get the hang of how to use it.

I have an all steel 8# maul used to start chunking up rounds, but when I got one chunk busted off, I pick up my Fiskars and can do twice the work with half the effort.

Also, I have never understood why people split from one side of the round. Side step around the dang thing as you're splitting. It will not only save you broken handles, but also save you from shock.


Might have to get a fiskars. The thing about these darned metal handles, is they are always there and aren't going anywhere, ever as far as I can tell. No doubt they are not friendly on the body. Good word of advice, up there. Hadn't really considered that these could actually cause damage using them.......

Thanks,

Larry
 
Saw the threads about fiskars. Look like great axes. I broke the handle out of one of my 8# mauls and welded a piece of black iron pipe for a handle. Guaranteed not to break. It is heavy, but the added mass helps splitting larger pieces. Might get a fiskar for the smaller stuff..

Whatcha think?

Splitting wood with tire and metal maul - YouTube

Metal handled maul - YouTube

dude seriously, you seem like a smart fella... I give you credit for accepting you for who you are but I would have put a lid on my chrome dome before I shot that video. Save your self respect and shave the rest of it off.

and yeah fiskars rock.
 
Might have to get a fiskars. The thing about these darned metal handles, is they are always there and aren't going anywhere, ever as far as I can tell. No doubt they are not friendly on the body. Good word of advice, up there. Hadn't really considered that these could actually cause damage using them.......

Thanks,

Larry

I know what you mean Hardhat, about wanting something that won't ever break on you. The thing is those Fiskars are darn near indestructible. You could keep the all steel job in reserve, sort of a heavy artillery while you do most of the splitting with a Fiskars.
 
Might have to get a fiskars. The thing about these darned metal handles, is they are always there and aren't going anywhere, ever as far as I can tell. No doubt they are not friendly on the body. Good word of advice, up there. Hadn't really considered that these could actually cause damage using them.......

Thanks,

Larry

I know what you mean about wanting something indestructible.

Good thing about Fiskars, is IF you break it, they'll replace it for free.

I can't believe how strong it is considering the handle is hollow. During my short stint of learning how to use it, I hit the handle just below the head HARD on a Walnut round. Very little felt shock and the handle was undamaged. I can see why they have lifetime warranties.

I wanted to add, I work in a plastics injection molding factory. Modern polymers can be made VERY tough. Some are literally stronger than some steel of the same thickness and weight and have much better snapback properties which let them absorb shock and such. I know the word "plastic" makes it sound cheap and weak, but it's anything but.

We make some parts out of a fiberglass imbedded nylon material that is crazy tough.
 
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I think you have a good idea there! Nice welds too! Use what ya have! :msp_thumbup: I have a 8# maul and keep breaking the handle on my 6# so I asked for a X-27 for X-mas. This is a good fix in a pinch, or for someone like me that would rather work harder using the 8# maul than go to the Hardware to put anouther handle on. Even still it takes me time to "work" up to the 8# if I have not split in awhile. I think the vib's would not be good for all my aliments though.
 
I broke some splitter handles and got sick of the fragile wood so I did something similar. What I did that was different was hammer a piece of round wood up the center of the steel pipe, and used as thin steel tube as possible with it still being strong to reduce the weight. The wood up the centre of the handle cancels out the vibration for me anyway, and I've done the same thing to an old axe head I have and painted it bright pink and called it "mr pinky". Its indestructible.
 
We've seen this topic resurface a few times each year. I like the thought of the wood core to dampen vibrations.

I have personally developed some tennis elbow from saw/splitting work back when I had only one saw (L65) and was using that for all of my limbing and was also splitting a large amount of wood by hand. Luckily haven't had an issue in over a year now.
 
Used my wooden handle 8lb maul for at least 10 years, easy to use & never had a problem with handle. Loaned it out & sure enough the handle got messed up. No way would I use a metal handle. You should try a fiskars or maybe a better wood handle, you'll thank us when you're older.
 
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