Oregon 91PXL057G or 91VXL057G chain?
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Homeowner
Yes, I'm with stupid <-
I have used 91VXL052G in 1.9hp 38cc saw, it is quite aggressively biting chain, cuts fast but is not it's best with that amount of power, with more power it would really shine though.
I'm comparing to 91P 052 (it is what package said) that was in guide bar + 2 chains packaging, this was easy chain for saw to pull and yes impossible to get much of any kickback with, but not very fast to cut with.
Also 91P that I had, had shorter cutters so with 91VXL one might get longer life out from chain, but not sure how different 91P that came with guide bar is to 91PXL, do they even compare?
For brush clearing and limbing, I would try M91VXL (multicut chain) instead either of those two though, it is more expensive, but should tolerate more of sand and dirt, they claim chain lasts 3 times longer than normal 91VXL, I have not had chance to test that claim yet as Husky lost spark soon after I got that chain.
M91VXL is bit slower cutting than 91VXL, but faster than 91P I had, might be best for your use if you can get one and are willing to pay twice the price of those other choices.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I can only comment on the technical aspects of those chain models, as I never used any of them.
The two chain models have both different cutters and different "kickback reduction".
The cutters of the 91VXL are regular semi-chisel, and they also are longer than usual, creating "chatter" problems on some saw/sprocket/bar combinations. Kickback reduction is in the form of large (long) ramped rakers.
The cutters of the 91PX (not PXL) are the traditional Oregon 91 design = shorter and camfer chisel (modified semi chisel, with a different profile around the "corner"). Kickback reduction consist of small ramps besides much smaller rakers than on the VXL. The chain also is sold as Husky H37.
Another option worth considering is the Stihl 63PM, that resembles the VXL, but has shorter cutters. Then there are of course the 63PS chisel chain, that will cut faster in the wood, but likely isn't the best choise for brush cutting, as it will be more "jumpy".
I suspect the smoothest option for brush cutting (and smaller limbs) is the 91PX - but the only way to know what really works best for you is to try the options yourself.
The two chain models have both different cutters and different "kickback reduction".
The cutters of the 91VXL are regular semi-chisel, and they also are longer than usual, creating "chatter" problems on some saw/sprocket/bar combinations. Kickback reduction is in the form of large (long) ramped rakers.
The cutters of the 91PX (not PXL) are the traditional Oregon 91 design = shorter and camfer chisel (modified semi chisel, with a different profile around the "corner"). Kickback reduction consist of small ramps besides much smaller rakers than on the VXL. The chain also is sold as Husky H37.
Another option worth considering is the Stihl 63PM, that resembles the VXL, but has shorter cutters. Then there are of course the 63PS chisel chain, that will cut faster in the wood, but likely isn't the best choise for brush cutting, as it will be more "jumpy".
I suspect the smoothest option for brush cutting (and smaller limbs) is the 91PX - but the only way to know what really works best for you is to try the options yourself.
Th 57G part is just the number of drive links. I think the PX is the answer as it appears to be the prior champher chisel VX that turned into PX with the addition of the bumper drive link. The better choice for my idea of brush is the Stihl product in the 0.043 drive link thickness (needs corresponding bar). A 56 drive link loop can be forced on the bar I have that calls for 57 so long as the drive sprocket is 6 teeth. If it almost fit chances are I would shorten the tail just a bit. The 56 will have no odd sequences.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I've been doing a lot of brush cutting / trail clearing lately using 91PX, and it has worked very well. The chamfer chisel profile is also quite fast for wood cutting as well, it's just that the cutters are short as ST wrote.
However for brush cutting I've been using a 12" bar with a larger nose sprocket, and I find that it's almost impossible to throw a chain with that combo. With the large nose the chain moves smoothly even when fairly tight, and the chain is simple can't get out of the bar groove. It's smooth and not grabby.
However for brush cutting I've been using a 12" bar with a larger nose sprocket, and I find that it's almost impossible to throw a chain with that combo. With the large nose the chain moves smoothly even when fairly tight, and the chain is simple can't get out of the bar groove. It's smooth and not grabby.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Best option for brush cutting is a brush cutter. With a circle saw blade & a straight shaft trimmer >30cc, nothing in the 4-5 inch categorie is going to stand a chance. Further with a straight shaft trimmer you have a much better reach for higher or farther away branches. And last at the end of the day your back is going to thank you that you spared it the constant bending over.
I would advise against using the chainsaw cutter circular blades on smaller trimmers. I see them requiring way more power.
On my Hitachi CG22 I run a circular saw blade and 2-3 inch branches are no problem whatsoever.
7
I would advise against using the chainsaw cutter circular blades on smaller trimmers. I see them requiring way more power.
On my Hitachi CG22 I run a circular saw blade and 2-3 inch branches are no problem whatsoever.
7
This depends on what cutting brush and limbing means to various people. To me it means cutting to 12 feet making bundles and then taking the bundles away. Or making piles nearby. Stuff like hickory usually need a few cuts to make them stack reasonably well. If the intent is to just kill off the unwanted stuff the clearing saw you describe is a valuable suggestion. A non extendable pole saw is somewhere between a conventional chainsaw and the brush cutter.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I've given up on the circular metal blades around here for clearing at ground level - we live on a pile of rocks. At the point where I need to use it and that it would be most useful, you can no longer see into the bracken far enough to see the stones and rocks. Even when you know the terrain it's just inevitable that you'll be constantly hitting rocks. The blades with points that actually look like circular saw blades last about 5 min, while the other shapes last longer but they won't cut real wood.
Beyond that the land is steep slopes, and I find the pole mounted attachments awkward to use, as often you're either down hill or up hill and neither is the right length!
I have a Stihl FS-250 so, I can 'mow' a thicket down with that and the hard blade of choice. When I have to reach under or around something, I can't use the brushcutter. I will not use it in a fence line nor as a limbing saw.
Also when cutting firewood, limbing with a Stihl MS-362CM gets old fast. I need to be able to cut 1.5"~2.5" trees on the ground which while possible with my brush cutter, isn't going to happen in my world. What I have is basically an Arborist rear handle chainsaw for clean up work (all on the ground) so, I want to ensure I have a chain that is appropriate for my needs. I don't want something 'grabby' that will pull small flexible trees into me or pull the saw away on the ground, nor be so slow I can't use it to limb firewood effectively.
It needs to be reasonably safe (but, no requirement for Anti-Kickback chain) around obstacles which could be other trees, T-posts in a fence line, trees growing through something on a farm (implements, abandoned cars, etc.), cost effective (Stihl chain is too expensive for this use) since I expect it to see occasional dirt and possibly broken cutters from contact with other things (yes, I wear good safety gear to help protect me from mishaps
).
Also when cutting firewood, limbing with a Stihl MS-362CM gets old fast. I need to be able to cut 1.5"~2.5" trees on the ground which while possible with my brush cutter, isn't going to happen in my world. What I have is basically an Arborist rear handle chainsaw for clean up work (all on the ground) so, I want to ensure I have a chain that is appropriate for my needs. I don't want something 'grabby' that will pull small flexible trees into me or pull the saw away on the ground, nor be so slow I can't use it to limb firewood effectively.
It needs to be reasonably safe (but, no requirement for Anti-Kickback chain) around obstacles which could be other trees, T-posts in a fence line, trees growing through something on a farm (implements, abandoned cars, etc.), cost effective (Stihl chain is too expensive for this use) since I expect it to see occasional dirt and possibly broken cutters from contact with other things (yes, I wear good safety gear to help protect me from mishaps
).
Homeowner
Yes, I'm with stupid <-
I took out all those rakers / depth gauges and every 3rd cutter (I can't get skip chains here so have to make them myself) from 91P chain, with that I cut 1/2" to 1.5" junipers near the ground, it was grabby, but it was so brutal that small stuff did not flex, it got teared down. Worked ok for limbs too on bigger stuff, those under 1.5" junipers I did not even try to limb, they had so tiny limbs that I could of pull them off by hand if needed.
That might not be case with wood you have to clear.
Anyway it did not matter much that chain got dull because of hitting dirt often, cutters just teared instead of cutting, works fine with small stuff that is cut close to ground.
With normal chain issue with that small stuff was flexing and also sometimes tiny tree got stuck into chain and had to pull it out from clutch cover, with modified chain I had not those issues and work was lot faster. So when going to enough grabby, it starts to work well again.
1 inch tree gets cut/teared with 2 cutters passing it, it is not as much sawing as it is tearing, so if you have some old chain, you could try that kind of modification to chain.
Not so great chain for bigger stuff, bounces a lot and probably is hard for equipment too, might even break easier if used to bigger wood, just that you are aware of limitations of such chain. That 2.5" might be upper limit for that kind of chain, but I really did like from that chain when clearing that smaller stuff.
That might not be case with wood you have to clear.
Anyway it did not matter much that chain got dull because of hitting dirt often, cutters just teared instead of cutting, works fine with small stuff that is cut close to ground.
With normal chain issue with that small stuff was flexing and also sometimes tiny tree got stuck into chain and had to pull it out from clutch cover, with modified chain I had not those issues and work was lot faster. So when going to enough grabby, it starts to work well again.
1 inch tree gets cut/teared with 2 cutters passing it, it is not as much sawing as it is tearing, so if you have some old chain, you could try that kind of modification to chain.
Not so great chain for bigger stuff, bounces a lot and probably is hard for equipment too, might even break easier if used to bigger wood, just that you are aware of limitations of such chain. That 2.5" might be upper limit for that kind of chain, but I really did like from that chain when clearing that smaller stuff.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
The same of course is true for any cutter from a chainsaw chain.
Of course a trimmer with a circular saw blade is not perfect. But then again I have never seen a perfect tool.
This is what I mean with working with a circular saw blade and no one can seriously tell me that he is faster with a chainsaw.
But I could also imagine using my kombitool with the chainsaw extension mounted a using it similar to the guy at the beginning of the film.
7
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Yes, that works nicely on flat ground in new growth woods. But here it is steep and rocky, and it's not so much a woods as it is a jungle development project - we have more stuff from Asia than we do native species. Briers and vines in overlapping piles 10' tall and 15' in diameter. These days the newest invasives are overgrowing the ones that have been here for decades. A pole saw works pretty well for some of it, but I find if I get out before things leaf out a small saw works best.
I'm not a fan of skip chain myself. For what I'm cutting and the lightweight of my small saw, I think it would be very 'bouncy' and hard to control. For vines, I think I would use my brush cutter as I don't want them to be pulled into my chainsaw.
That stuff appears to be a little smaller than what I am looking to cut. That blade would be nice on a Blackberry thicket though.
cobey
Addicted to ArboristSite
Px is good, I like it better than vxl
Good stuff, if I found a deal on
A roll I would buy it.
Good stuff, if I found a deal on
A roll I would buy it.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am sorry but I believe you are a bit unrealistic if you believe that these techniques are only done on flat land. I am from an alpine country and we do it absolutely the same. We just wear mountain boots instead of rubber boots and have no one following us to make nice videos. I have a few brushcutter systems. I wear my backpack system when I am in really hilly terrain, my regular brushcutter in average terrain. For your type of dense briers and vines I use the mulch blades like this
I take down small saplings up to thumb thick with this blade type.
7
I doubt that anyone has compared PXL to VXL. The px cutter is not "long". I can compare 91vx to 91vxl. I think 91 PX is that with added bumper drive link. Saw Troll is correct in post 3 about that comparison. There is also a 90px that I could compare. Not sure if I actually used any 91PX.
I noticed that Loggerchain has a full complement of PXL on their site now so that's what prompted me to ask.
http://www.loggerchain.com/91PXL-New-3-8-LP-050-longer-teeth_c108.htm
You may have discovered something. There appears to be no 91pxl pdf file at Oregon.
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/chain/lowkick_chain_main.htm this is as close as I found.
px is champher chisel as is vx, vxl is semi chisel wonder what pxl is. Get some and test. If I had a low power saw and just charge off a loop to a particular job the shorter cutter champher chisel would be my choice. At least of the Oregon choices I have used in 3/8lp 0.050.
You may have discovered something. There appears to be no 91pxl pdf file at Oregon.
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/chain/lowkick_chain_main.htm this is as close as I found.
px is champher chisel as is vx, vxl is semi chisel wonder what pxl is. Get some and test. If I had a low power saw and just charge off a loop to a particular job the shorter cutter champher chisel would be my choice. At least of the Oregon choices I have used in 3/8lp 0.050.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Near as I can tell that is a 91VXL cutter with the ramped drive link of 91PX.
