Husqvarna 450 or Dolmar 421?

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Husqvarna 450 or Dolmar 421

  • Husqvarna 450

    Votes: 17 26.2%
  • Dolmar 421

    Votes: 48 73.8%

  • Total voters
    65
I think I punched in variations of Husqvarna 450 vs Dolmar 421, which is better, which more reliable etc. Not trying to be an ass, but this has been over a several week period and I've cleared history several times since. I know one from here is like "wanting to replace my Dolmar 421". I'm not sure how to copy and paste from this phone anyway to be honest.

Almost ever review describe the 421 bar as less than optimal, home owner grade on a pro saw or simply "junk".

ETA: most of the reviews and comments are very positive on the Dolmar 421 as well as the service from Ford f150. Just wanted to add that in case someone thought my intention was to take it across the coals.
 
Back to the question, what are the exact differences between the 450 and 450 rancher? I see a weight difference, but no explanation. I called Husqvarna customer service and they didn't know. One is considerably heavier than the 421 and that would tip the scales for me in Dolmar favor if in fact that was the actual 450 weight.
 
Back to the question, what are the exact differences between the 450 and 450 rancher? I see a weight difference, but no explanation. I called Husqvarna customer service and they didn't know. One is considerably heavier than the 421 and that would tip the scales for me in Dolmar favor if in fact that was the actual 450 weight.
The only difference between the 2 is the sticker on the recoil cover. I had both new on the bench a while back and looked them over real close and thats the only difference. They also weigh the exact same, 11.1 lbs on my scale.
 
I am a dolmar fanboy and dont try to hide it but i also think that i give pretty fair advise on most saws. I readily admit the dolmars failings....most of the time that amounts to size and weight penalties.

421 is the 2nd best saw in the 40cc class to me, 1# spot goes to the Stihl 241 but are you willing to pay $230 more for a saw that the only real advantage is it has a bit slimmer profile and weighs a few ounces less? I am not but in all fairness i havent ran a 241 so maybe they are that much better. Everything else is a big compromise compared to the 421, how much do you want to give up in build quality to save a few bucks.

421 has a few flaws in past models that sometimes showed up, the fuel line issue which has since been fixed, occasional coil failure....never had one in my hand but have sold a half dozen coils over the last few years.....cant think of any other parts that i have sold for these saws other than a few clutch covers which isnt a design flaw....that just normal use or abuse IMHO
 
Well we now know from this thread that some newbys can loose the circlip and washer... :D




@NC Cutter,

If your question is pointig at what saw is better, 450 or 421? Then my answer is this.

If I was presented either saw, I truely do believe that, with proper maintenance, they will both last the homeowner at least 2 to 3 decades! Personally I wouldn't mind owning either and cutting my type of firewood with either. I seriously doubt that over a days work, either saw would give me any speed advantage!

If I spend my money, I have certain criteria that are important for me. It all comes down to build quality and there is one point that kind of disturbes me with the clam shell designs. The bar nuts are simply turned into the plastic! I have seen over the years quite a few threads about "ripped out barnuts". In the beginning of the clamshell era the saw's engine extended so far out front that the bar nuts were in the engine housing!

7
 
there is one point that kind of disturbes me with the clam shell designs. The bar nuts are simply turned into the plastic!

7

I am not sure what the ipl shows it looks like two t bolts and one threaded stud. The t bolts go through a metal channel that would rest against the plastic the way it looks to me. Just because one brand threads into the plastic does not mean they all do.

The Husqvarna top handle "clamshell" gasoline saws (I think only one at this point) do have metal that goes to connect with the bar stud.
 

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there is one point that kind of disturbes me with the clam shell designs. The bar nuts are simply turned into the plastic!
That is only on Stihls. They also put inboard clutches next to the plastic case, with predictable results. Other companies understand the materials properties better than that.
 
One thing that people complain about with the farm grade Husky's is that they're sold in Lowes. I see that as an advantage over other makes. Lowes stores are everywhere, they carry a decent supply of parts for these saws (filters, chains, bars), are usually well stocked in those parts and have very liberal hours compared to the average saw shop. The disadvantage is the obvious lack of service.

Stihl has caught on and are branching out to hardware stores, garden centers and some department style farm stores like Rural King. That's great for the consumer, but bad for the small dealer.
 
I've put a good 8-10 cords of wood in a trailer with my 450 since last October with zero problems. I keep the saw clean, chain sharp and adjusted, air filter clean, gas fresh (no more than a month or 2 old) and it's given me flawless performance, and it's even a refurb unit. I don't think anyone here who takes care of their saws and is one of the "pro or nothing" guys has ever worn out a lesser saw. yes they break, but I'd venture a guess that it's mostly due to lack of maintenance/upkeep or just straight negligence. that's my .02

-scott
 
One thing that people complain about with the farm grade Husky's is that they're sold in Lowes. I see that as an advantage over other makes. Lowes stores are everywhere, they carry a decent supply of parts for these saws (filters, chains, bars), are usually well stocked in those parts and have very liberal hours compared to the average saw shop. The disadvantage is the obvious lack of service.

Stihl has caught on and are branching out to hardware stores, garden centers and some department style farm stores like Rural King. That's great for the consumer, but bad for the small dealer.
I disagree. Wait till you have a problem with a saw that you bought from a box store that you can't figure out and you take it back to them for repair... chances are you will get a look like your an alien from mars or something of the sort.

Here's a little story. I was buying trimmer line at Home Depot awhile back. Down the isle I heard a guys asking a store worker what bar and chain he needed for his saw that he bought there. I listen for a few minutes (while the employee was clearly thoroughly confused) as I was looking over there line selection. As I walked past I humbly pointed out the set up the customer needed for his saw.

We need respectable dealers for O P E.
 
The models that each respective products fit is printed prominently on the front of the Husqvarna packaging. The customer and store employee sound clueless.

Warranties are worthless as I've found out. Especially the Husqvarna warranty. I took mine into the local dealer for a recoil and he charged me for the part, but changed it out. Said getting them to pay for warranty work was like pulling teeth and that he wouldn't get paid for that. So to answer your question, if I was faced with an issue I couldn't fix, it would go to the dealer or a small engine place and I'd be treated the same regardless of where I bought the saw.

Good, honest dealers would be great, but they're a rarity today. I know of none that would qualify locally and that includes all makes.
 
I disagree. Wait till you have a problem with a saw that you bought from a box store that you can't figure out and you take it back to them for repair... chances are you will get a look like your an alien from mars or something of the sort.

We need respectable dealers for O P E.

Well said ^ .... I 'suspect' traditional saw dealers are challenged by different levels of support from saw manufacturers depending on their volume. My dealer does high volume and the reps seem to pay close attention to what they ask for.

:D - "alien from mars" lol


Just muff modded my ea4300/421 the other day. Hoping to get out soon with screw drivers to give it a run, richen it up a bit and see the difference. Will be hunting for rich burble out of the cut. Great little saw!
 
The models that each respective products fit is printed prominently on the front of the Husqvarna packaging. The customer and store employee sound clueless.
Most consumers buying a saw at a box store are clueless, that's part of the problem.
if I was faced with an issue I couldn't fix, it would go to the dealer or a small engine place and I'd be treated the same regardless.
I highly doubt that would be the case if you did not buy from them. You scratch my back, I scratch your back kind of deal.
 
I was set on picking up a Dolmar 421 based on price and quality. However, Husqvarna is throwing in their 543xp's as a package deal with their zero-turn mowers. I was able to pick one up NIB for a major discount from a zero-turn buyer. It was a win-win deal. This is a quality, Japan-built saw with time-tested technology (Zeohah/Redmax http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/40cc-shoot-out.233295/). I highly recommend this saw IF you can get it for what it's worth ($3-400). If not, bend over and get yourself an Stihl MS241C.
 
The models that each respective products fit is printed prominently on the front of the Husqvarna packaging. The customer and store employee sound clueless.

Warranties are worthless as I've found out. Especially the Husqvarna warranty. I took mine into the local dealer for a recoil and he charged me for the part, but changed it out. Said getting them to pay for warranty work was like pulling teeth and that he wouldn't get paid for that. So to answer your question, if I was faced with an issue I couldn't fix, it would go to the dealer or a small engine place and I'd be treated the same regardless of where I bought the saw.

Good, honest dealers would be great, but they're a rarity today. I know of none that would qualify locally and that includes all makes.

It's $15 to send my Dolmar to @fordf150 if needed. Peace of mind. I lost some parts on my 421, he saw that and had them in the mail before I knew he'd mailed them.
 
Just muff modded my ea4300/421 the other day. Hoping to get out soon with screw drivers to give it a run, richen it up a bit and see the difference. Will be hunting for rich burble out of the cut. Great little saw!

From what I understand, it's a eighth to a quarter turn richer. Please keep us updated!
 
Yup, got a 421 and love it. Have not muffler modded it because of concerns of voiding the warranty.
 
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