Need help with Stihl 056 ignition fix using Nova II module

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tntatro

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Hello, I have recently tried a fix on a Stihl 056 Bosch ignition using the Nova II module. It has great spark but starting is difficult. I had to advance the flywheel slightly and got it to start but the saw would not idle under 2,600 rpm or so. The chain will advance at 2,500 rpm. My other 056 will idle around 2,000-2,400 without problems.

I had this ignition on another saw and it behaved the same way. I had a different ignition on this saw and it idled fine so I'm pretty sure it is the ignition and not the chainsaw or carburetor.

The saw is an 045 super and the compression is really high, much higher than 150 psi. It tested around 175 psi but that was after putting it together and had oil in the cylinder.

Any suggestions on how to get this to start and idle normal?

I'm considering trying a different brand module such as the Stihl or the Mega Fire but I'd rather be able to fix this one.
 
I'd hook a timing light up to it and see where it's set at. Guessing won't get you far.
I don't have a timing light. I don't know much about timing, I've just been reading up and trying what others have done. Maybe I'll have to get one. At least it starts so I can do that.

It seems to be flooding. I have to lock the throttle wide open and pull fast to get it to start. If I tune it as low as I can without it stalling then give it wide open throttle for a couple seconds it will idle really high after and the chain will spin fast. I did a pressure/vac test and it holds fine. I may switch carburetors again to see if it behaves different. I probably need a carb rebuild on this one. Now that I think of it I had a different carb on when I was using the other ignition. I'll have to check it out more tomorrow.
 
I repaired an ignition on one years ago and advanced the timing and used a timing light to set it properly. I dont remember how much it was but it was quite a bit. Ignition problems will show themselves as fuel problemsusually so I doubt that changing carbs will matter but try it cause its easy.Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me will chime in.
 
Okay, that makes sense that it would affect the fuel. Any educated guesses on which way to try next based on what it's doing? The first time I got it to start it was advanced about a half key width. Then I tried about 3/4 key width and it seems to be the same. Maybe try 1/4 key width? I couldn't get it to start with the flywheel key in. Are these the increments I should go by or is there a better way to adjust without a timing light?
 
I slotted the ignition plate to advance the timing and it was pretty far. Im thinking try 2 to 3 key widths. I used a Stihl ignition,not a Nova but Im thinking its similar.
 
So far I have only got it to start at 1/2 and 3/4 key width advanced. It started hard and had to be full throttle to start. If it stalls I can't get it to start again. No luck at 1/4 key width or 1 full key width. When I say key width I am measuring from the shaft where the key is located. Should I be measuring on the outside of the flywheel. Two or three key widths seems like it would advance it pretty extreme if measured from the shaft.
 
I am fixing up two 056 supers that have not been used in about 15 years so hoping you get the perfect fix. Both saws have good ignitions, but from past experience is that just when you get them dialed in the spark quits sparking. It seems to me that these saws have a slower chain speed with plenty of torque to keep the chain moving in spite of the knots. Thanks
 
The ignitions that I have had that will start cold then fail when hot seem to respond excellent to the fix by Foggysail. I have done two so far that work great and I'm about to try one more that does the same thing.

When there is no spark at all then I think it is not the capacitor but another part so this type of fix is required. The one I'm working on now did not have any spark at all. Now it has excellent spark but doesn't start easily or run properly. I'm studying timing but not sure if that can fix it. I don't understand how the timing could have changed from a different module. I may try the Stihl module if I can't get this Nova II to work.

Right now I have two 056 magnums and an 045 super. One magnum has the foggsail fix and is running excellent. The other magnum I believe will run good after the foggysail fix. It runs good now until it gets hot then looses spark. The 045 super is what I'm trying to get going now. If I have to I'll get the aftermarket ignition from Germany but hopefully I can get this figured out because I have one more ignition like it with no spark at all.

I generally tune these saws to around 10,500 rpm. With mine anything over 11,00 doesn't seem to gain anything. The book says a little higher for the supers and magnums but I think they run pretty good between 10,500 to 11,000. I mostly tune by 4 cycling than tachometer reading.

If you have ignition problems then I suggest trying the foggysail fix first and if that doesn't work try this other method. Others have had success with this method but I don't know if any used the Nova II module successfully.
 
I don't know if the ignition is anything like an 031 but when I used the Nova II module in my 031 I had to advance the (points) flywheel about 1 inch measured on the outside edge. It ran perfect then. I understand I could have changed to an electronic ignition flywheel and ran it straight up.
 
Wow, okay thanks for that info. I guess it's worth a try to go to an extreme. I've been doing a small amount of research about timing and was ready to print out a degree wheel and check things out but thanks to windows 10 I can't use my printer anymore. I think I need to find some way to keep track of what I have tried.
 
I just marked the flywheel at TDC and removed the key then moved the flywheel about an inch forward and bolted it back down. Of course I had to run it without the key but seems it didn't need it. Of course if you had to work on the saw and had to remove the flywheel it might cause problems getting it back right. My saw ran terrible before I did that.
 
I just measured how much advancing one key width is and it measures to about 1 inch. Two fins are about an inch also. I had it started and it idled for a little while at about 2,300 rpm. It's still hard to start though. It seemed to run good until it stalled. If I shut it down or it stalls then it's even harder to start back up. This time I had it about 7/8 key width.
 
My 044 does that pretty bad sometimes but it runs awesome. It doesn't seem to want to start if I advance it 1" or more. I have tried 1" and 2" and it didn't kick back. It actually seemed to pull over a little easier. I am turning the flywheel counterclockwise. Is that advancing it? I'll mess with it more tomorrow and try to advance it in smaller increments. It just seems like there is a small window where I can get it to start but I haven't had any luck yet outside of that. It was actually running well for a short time until it stalled, then it is so hard to start back up.
 
My 044 does that pretty bad sometimes but it runs awesome. It doesn't seem to want to start if I advance it 1" or more. I have tried 1" and 2" and it didn't kick back. It actually seemed to pull over a little easier. I am turning the flywheel counterclockwise. Is that advancing it? I'll mess with it more tomorrow and try to advance it in smaller increments. It just seems like there is a small window where I can get it to start but I haven't had any luck yet outside of that. It was actually running well for a short time until it stalled, then it is so hard to start back up.
Counterclockwise advances the flywheel and the ignition spark.
 
Okay, I'll keep advancing it to see what happens. It seems like it is flooding. It won't pop when choked on a cold start and I eventually have to lock it wide open throttle and pull really fast a bunch of times and if I'm lucky it will start.
 
I'm considering getting one. I think Harbor Freight has a cheap one that might get me by.
 

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