Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
So are you saying I don't have to split the case to replace it?
346xp OE Rebuild
- Thread starter Full Chisel
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So are you saying I don't have to split the case to replace it?
Definitely not. Instead of pressing into the case, it's pressed into the outer bearing race. The races are wider than normal, making room for the seal. The 385 and 390 are the same way, as well as several Stihl saws.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
So basically I just have to pry out the old seal and press the new one in? Any tips on this process.
Appreciate the info Mr. Snelling!
Appreciate the info Mr. Snelling!
sunfish
Fish Head
Good to know Brad. I just assumed the Bearing had to be replaced with the seal.
A lot of people assume the same thing with the 385/390s, since the bearings comes with a seal already installed. But again, it's similarly, and just as easily removed as any crank seal on a pro saw.
old-cat
Fir Man
If you click on my avatar then click on my photos there's pics of the seal pullers I made that work EXCELLENT!
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
I saw someone's post who had filed a notch in the end of a flathead...looks kind of similar to yours. I'll have to whip something up although we probably have seal pullers at work.
Fired it up again a few minutes ago and it's still leaking like a sieve. So I don't think it's leaking at the base...it has a nice fat bead all the way around the seal this time. Back to square one and waiting on seals to come in.
I noticed one of the carb screws doesn't quite snug up due to the partition being stripped out...would that cause a leak like this? I mean this thing races at idle...probably 5-6k and surges a bit.
Fired it up again a few minutes ago and it's still leaking like a sieve. So I don't think it's leaking at the base...it has a nice fat bead all the way around the seal this time. Back to square one and waiting on seals to come in.
I noticed one of the carb screws doesn't quite snug up due to the partition being stripped out...would that cause a leak like this? I mean this thing races at idle...probably 5-6k and surges a bit.
sunfish
Fish Head
That's common problem with the plastic threads and screws being over tightened. But don't think it would cause that big a leak, needs to be fixed though.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
That's what I'm thinking as well...
old-cat
Fir Man
Pull the carb sideways while it's running to tighten that loose spot. Maybe better not though, you'll have a toasted piston soon enough.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
I'm not going to run it any more until this leak is addressed. I'm heavily leaning towards crank seals at this point.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Soooooo, I'm guessing these aren't the right seals?
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Need some help fellas...is there another type of seal because there is no way these fit in the bearing race from the outside. Going to pressure/vac test this afternoon to try and isolate the leak.
TIA!
TIA!
sunfish
Fish Head
I've never done the pto side of a 346, but that seal does not look right.
Way too big for PTO seal.Seal has to be inserted "inside"the bearing.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Can anyone hook me up with the part number(s) of the seals I need? Are they different between the PTO and flywheel side...looks like they should be?
I tried to do a pressure test and I couldn't get it to hold from the intake so I'm going to start there with a new partition and flange. That needed to be addressed anyway with the stripped threads and all.
I tried to do a pressure test and I couldn't get it to hold from the intake so I'm going to start there with a new partition and flange. That needed to be addressed anyway with the stripped threads and all.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Looks like those fit a 350.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Are they different than a 346?
