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old-cat
Fir Man
There's definitely a difference in what you have and what I had.
Quality control issue?
Quality control issue?
bought that this summer ... I bought 2 ... so I'll take the other one apart eventually and see whats up... .
okay, got the saw back together. I don't have much in the way of pics...but I've got the whole thing on video... really not looking forward to editing this all down...but I will get to it.
compression is 160 psi dry ...first couple pulls.... which is a little dissappointing...but I'll run some gas through it and see where we end up.
compression is 160 psi dry ...first couple pulls.... which is a little dissappointing...but I'll run some gas through it and see where we end up.
Well, it don't run. Just figured out why. The piston is hitting the spark plug ...and jamming the gap shut! squish is perfect .020-.022 .... now I gotta mod the spark plug? anyone got a model # for a .040" shorter plug?
old-cat
Fir Man
Put two washers on the plug
I had the same thought.... and it worked.... nice.
BUT.... still didn't run. swapped the coil... no go... took the carb apart and cleaned it... now it runs. the saw needs fuel for sure... and the tune seems touchy.... but it definitely revs! gonna hand it back to dad and see what he says...
BUT.... still didn't run. swapped the coil... no go... took the carb apart and cleaned it... now it runs. the saw needs fuel for sure... and the tune seems touchy.... but it definitely revs! gonna hand it back to dad and see what he says...
Hey guys I've read through this thread a few times. I purchased a new metal ring to swap out the plastic from the carb the head the plastic boot and and ring are a sing molded piece. Did you guys just slip the metal ring over the plastic. Thanks guys.
old-cat
Fir Man
Two ways you can do; File all high spots off the old partition, plastic clamp or buy the updated partition.
old-cat
Fir Man
You have to go all the way around that plastic, get all the little bumps off. Then to get that clamp on easier, file a tiny bevel on the smaller latch part so it will slide into the square hole like a door latch.
raumati01
ArboristSite Operative
I just scored one of these for $100 with 3 chains , the thread on the cylinder where the muffler bolts into is sloppy . I only really bought because of this thread, I hope you're pleased with yourselves.
Whats the best carb for these saws?
Whats the best carb for these saws?
old-cat
Fir Man
Probably the one you have if it's OEM
raumati01
ArboristSite Operative
I think I remember seeing in this thread that the earlier carbs were better, this saw is a couple of years old.
old-cat
Fir Man
Every one I have used has worked PERFECTLY. You can't improve on that!
Hey fellas,
I'll be picking up an early-ish 340 for very little sometime soon, and I've been told it runs but the top end is a bit average.
So I'm keen on chucking a 45mm top end on it, I was considering the 346 44.3mm but after finding the 45 with single ring and closed ports, I'd like to go this way.
I'd like to know which one is the one to go for out of the Meteor or Hyway (or another kit)?
I'll also be getting the riser block of course and a couple of other bits.
I'm looking to run without the base gasket (providing squish is good) and a muff mod. not looking to mess with porting.
Also, what difference is there between the intake boots? I've read a few times of people putting a 357/359 one on.
Anything else required or things that should be done?
I'll be picking up an early-ish 340 for very little sometime soon, and I've been told it runs but the top end is a bit average.
So I'm keen on chucking a 45mm top end on it, I was considering the 346 44.3mm but after finding the 45 with single ring and closed ports, I'd like to go this way.
I'd like to know which one is the one to go for out of the Meteor or Hyway (or another kit)?
I'll also be getting the riser block of course and a couple of other bits.
I'm looking to run without the base gasket (providing squish is good) and a muff mod. not looking to mess with porting.
Also, what difference is there between the intake boots? I've read a few times of people putting a 357/359 one on.
Anything else required or things that should be done?
Have a look at the youtube link in my sig. My channel has lots of 350 stuff on it
SawTroll
Information Collector
OEM 44.3 mm likely still is the best option - how good a high quality 45 mm one is likely will depend on if it is a "copy" of the 353 one, or if it is an actual attempt to improve on the 44.3 mm OEM one - and of course the quality of the product.
With the current price picture, I really don't see any reason to not go OEM.
old-cat
Fir Man
OEM is the ONLY way
The after market p/c things are a joke.
You don't need 357 intake parts unless you have a high quality porting job
The after market p/c things are a joke.
You don't need 357 intake parts unless you have a high quality porting job
