25" Bucking saw

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Woodchip rookie,

A good 60cc saw will cut '20" ish' North American hardwood all day long. Will also adequately pull a 25" bar. I have used one so equipped for years. If you just want power then go with best hp to weigh ratio. For a Stihl, this means skipping the 70cc and going to a 77cc saw.

Ron
 
That 046 looks too shiny. Suspect a repaint, esp when you look at the condition of the handle vs the clutch cover and front of the saw.
 
70cc saws are more then enough but are more $$$ if you wanted a used one that may be an option. The Echo 590 is a solid 60cc saw. At under $400 new it is hard to beat. I my self like the 60cc saws. They work well on 25" + hard woods like oak and hickory. I use a Dolmar 6100 but that is going to be $200 more then the 590


This. ^^^^^^^
 
IMHO, a 25" bar buried in hardwood is asking a lot of a 60cc saw. Sure, it'll do it, but not as efficiently as I would want. I guess it depends on how tight your budget is.

True, but it sounded like that was going to be the exception to the norm, with most of the wood being 20" or less. A good running 60cc would handle that just fine.
 
If you're exclusively cutting 20+ ash logs, take a look at that 460 or maybe a used 461.
If you think you can get by with a smaller saw, also take a look at a Husqvarna 555... Lot of saw for the $
 
A 70cc saw can do everything efficiently a 60cc saw can do. The converse, not so much…

In addition, a 70cc saw more readily opens up the option of noodling larger than 20" wood, therein allowing the OP to not have to pass up firewood opportunities.
 
A 70cc saw can do everything efficiently a 60cc saw can do. The converse, not so much…

In addition, a 70cc saw more readily opens up the option of noodling larger than 20" wood, therein allowing the OP to not have to pass up firewood opportunities.

I will say having a 70cc saw opened up a lot of firewood scores for me. Most of the guys out there cutting firewood only have a 40 or 50cc saw and can't handle big wood or burn their saw up cutting it up with a half dull chain. If course, big wood is a lot more labor intensive and time consuming. So there is a tradeoff.
 
True, but it sounded like that was going to be the exception to the norm, with most of the wood being 20" or less. A good running 60cc would handle that just fine.
I've found with a stock 6100 Dolly that once it was fully broken in, the stock 20" bar often wouldn't load the engine properly in NE hardwood IMO. (With a carefully filed chain, of course.)
So I got a 24" 84 DL, 3/8" pitch bar (what stihl calls 25"). It's happy with that buried in NE hardwood, and noodling sugar maple when buried. The clutch cover of the 6100 is one of the best at clearing the stringy chips from noodling. Of course when I don't need a long bar, a 20" is more maneuverable and safer. When it's useful, it can make you smile. :yes:
 
I've found with a stock 6100 Dolly that once it was fully broken in, the stock 20" bar often wouldn't load the engine properly in NE hardwood IMO. (With a carefully filed chain, of course.)
So I got a 24" 84 DL, 3/8" pitch bar (what stihl calls 25"). It's happy with that buried in NE hardwood, and noodling sugar maple when buried. The clutch cover of the 6100 is one of the best at clearing the stringy chips from noodling. Of course when I don't need a long bar, a 20" is more maneuverable and safer. When it's useful, it can make you smile. :yes:

When cutting the exact same size of wood less than bar length (i.e. 16"), there is not an appreciable difference between using a 20" or 24" bar. The resistance on the engine from the extra weight of pulling and longer, and thus heavier chain pales in comparison to the friction of cutting.

Taking a few thousandths off your rakers would be much better at "loading the engine properly" --- which is, by the way, not something that makes sense.
 
It would make sense if the saw is tuned rich and the load isn't enough to clean up 4 stroking to where it runs strong. But a buried 20" bar should be plenty enough load.
 
I've found with a stock 6100 Dolly that once it was fully broken in, the stock 20" bar often wouldn't load the engine properly in NE hardwood IMO. (With a carefully filed chain, of course.)
So I got a 24" 84 DL, 3/8" pitch bar (what stihl calls 25"). It's happy with that buried in NE hardwood, and noodling sugar maple when buried. The clutch cover of the 6100 is one of the best at clearing the stringy chips from noodling. Of course when I don't need a long bar, a 20" is more maneuverable and safer. When it's useful, it can make you smile. :yes:
Well maybe not all 60cc saws run like the 6100. I will try and get a 555 ordered and just put it the same wood and see. Sense the only difference is rev boost that won't matter in a 24in hickory. I can also just use the same bar and chain.
 
Used 460/046, 044/440, 372/365 are my choice personally. 365's are very cheap used and close to 372 power. My bb 372 was used to cut a 30" oak with a 20" bar no problem. Parts are easy to come by for those saws as well.
 
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