Cut the restrictors out and you would like it even more. Hard for me to even think of cutting 20" hardwood with a 60cc saw. Unless that is all I have. The 390 gets used for anything in that range. CJ
I've found with a stock 6100 Dolly that once it was fully broken in, the stock 20" bar often wouldn't load the engine properly in NE hardwood IMO. (With a carefully filed chain, of course.)
So I got a 24" 84 DL, 3/8" pitch bar (what stihl calls 25"). It's happy with that buried in NE hardwood, and noodling sugar maple when buried. The clutch cover of the 6100 is one of the best at clearing the stringy chips from noodling. Of course when I don't need a long bar, a 20" is more maneuverable and safer. When it's useful, it can make you smile.
+1
It would appear that @woodchip rookie already knows a 70cc class saw is best for using a 24/25" bar, so I'm not sure how a 60cc saw discussion is necessary?
+2 with the addition of a 576XP.
It would make sense if the saw is tuned rich and the load isn't enough to clean up 4 stroking to where it runs strong. But a buried 20" bar should be plenty enough load.
Guess what Stihl does with it's "tuning kit" for the Stihl 261. Exchange regular 325/3/8 set up for 3/8mini-picco system => voila tuned saw...I am unaware of the method of re-tuning your saw by changing out bars.
If a 20" bar buried in hardwood doesn't load the motor enough, there's a problem somewhere.
A 20" bar on a 90cc saw is the felling setup of choice around the Midwest. Somehow, don't think a task that loggers choose a 90cc saw isn't enough to load your 6100.
I had a big breakfastA 20" bar wont cut through that.
Looks like someone took a tour through the Wonka Factory.....It's good to see you're getting into shape. Shame the shape is round...
Perhaps a season pass?Looks like someone took a tour through the Wonka Factory.....
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