need recommendation on pro bar and chain for firewood

[MtnManIdaho]

I'm new to firewood cutting, and dont have alot of experience with chainsaws. I am running a stihl MS 362 w/ Stihl Rollomatic E 20" Bar and a full chisel Oilermatic RS chain. I'm cutting mostly dead pine and fir, new deadfall that isnt fully dry. After the occasional resharpening and 5 cords of wood I've gone and replaced the chain, however i've found that the bar tip sprocket is worn and causes the new chain to bind.

Wondering if this is typical and the bar sprocket needs to be regularly replaced, i see on other bars that they have a removeable tip. Also I'm wondering what the average life of a chain should be if it is well cared for. I would like to cut 10-20 cords per season so if there is a better bar/chain recommendation I would love to hear it. I just want to be sure i'm not using a light duty setup for heavy use.

 

[computeruser]

The setup you have is the setup I would want to use on that saw. You should be able to get many years of use out of a bar at that rate of cutting.

The nose sprocket issue seems like a fluke to me.

 

[CBeal34]

Is the bar & chain getting oiled properly? Maybe start with the oiler turned all the way up & gradually reduce as needed. Also make sure the spocket, groove & oil port on the bar is clear of debris. Chain & bar should have lasted longer than 5 cord.

 

[MtnManIdaho]

oiler is turned all the way out, i had heard it was the best way to run these saws. I was having an issue with the groove in the bar filling up with sawdust, was removing the chain to clear it every time i filled her. Started noticing the issue when i would be cutting for a while and the chain would begin to smoke. It only liked to do it on the thicker logs, was fine with anything 12" diameter or less. I believe the drive links were not clearing all the debri, which prevented the chain from staying oiled, which in turn wore the socket. So next question is how can i avoid this happening with a new bar and chain, and is it worth replacing the sprocket in this bar (non removeable tip).

 

[rd35]

Are you sure you have the correct chain pitch? The last time I ran into this problem, the saw shop had sold the customer a .325 pitch chain for his .375 pitch bar & sprocket. It ruined the sprocket, chain, and bar. All 3 had to be replaced!

 

[Jon1212]

oiler is turned all the way out, i had heard it was the best way to run these saws. I was having an issue with the groove in the bar filling up with sawdust, was removing the chain to clear it every time i filled her. Started noticing the issue when i would be cutting for a while and the chain would begin to smoke. It only liked to do it on the thicker logs, was fine with anything 12" diameter or less. I believe the drive links were not clearing all the debri, which prevented the chain from staying oiled, which in turn wore the socket. So next question is how can i avoid this happening with a new bar and chain, and is it worth replacing the sprocket in this bar (non removeable tip).

When cutting, are you still seeing small wood chips clearing the clutch cover, or sawdust? If the bar groove is loading up that bad, you are either cutting with a dull chain, the wrong chain(as @rd35 mentioned), or both.

 

[MtnManIdaho]

Checked my bar. Turns out its a .325 not 3/8 which explains why it was binding at the sprocket when i put a new 3/8 chain on her. I hadnt even thought to check her when i ordered it as a pair with that chain. Also would explain why she was dulling so quickly since i was using a stihl 3/8" sharpener on her.

Thanks for all the help guys, should have checked to make sure i got the correct parts i ordered first. Ive gone and ordereded a 20" rollomatic ES for 3/8".

 

[rd35]

You will need to change your drive sprocket too or this problem will still happen as the sprocket is likely also .325 pitch. I would strongly suggest you discard the chain, bar, and sprocket...and put all new on as a matched set. The chain drive links are likely damaged at this point and will trash your new drive sprocket. Also, since the bar and chain got so hot the chain links are probably hardened from the heat and will damage your new bar. Starting out with all new "matched" components will give you the smooth running and fast cutting saw that the MS362 is famous for being. Once you get the right bar, chain, and sprocket on that beast you will not be able to wipe the smile off your face!!

 

[barton174]

You will need to change your drive sprocket too or this problem will still happen as the sprocket is likely also .325 pitch. I would strongly suggest you discard the chain, bar, and sprocket...and put all new on as a matched set. The chain drive links are likely damaged at this point and will trash your new drive sprocket. Also, since the bar and chain got so hot the chain links are probably hardened from the heat and will damage your new bar. Starting out with all new "matched" components will give you the smooth running and fast cutting saw that the MS362 is famous for being. Once you get the right bar, chain, and sprocket on that beast you will not be able to wipe the smile off your face!!

Agree! I will add that you don't HAVE to go with Stihl parts at your local dealer, if you don't want. You can get the bar and chain from Bailey's for probably quite a bit less coin, unless you can convince the local dealer to give you a smoking deal on your new chain/sprocket/bar because they ordered the wrong parts.

Mike

 

[CascadeHusky]

You will need to change your drive sprocket too or this problem will still happen as the sprocket is likely also .325 pitch. I would strongly suggest you discard the chain, bar, and sprocket...and put all new on as a matched set. The chain drive links are likely damaged at this point and will trash your new drive sprocket. Also, since the bar and chain got so hot the chain links are probably hardened from the heat and will damage your new bar. Starting out with all new "matched" components will give you the smooth running and fast cutting saw that the MS362 is famous for being. Once you get the right bar, chain, and sprocket on that beast you will not be able to wipe the smile off your face!!

The old chain probably has driver links messed up, but a few mins with a flat file will clean them up. Not a pleasant task, but do-able.

Rims cost less than chains. It isn't hard to ensure that you aren't continuing to damage bar.

Maybe this is me being too cheap, but I wouldn't toss the chain without trying to clean up first. "Risking your bar" isn't that risky.