Chainsaw mill productivity

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AK Steve

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I'm interested in welding up a chainsaw mill and milling with my stock 288 xp. I'll mostly be sawing small (20" max) spruce and a little bit of birch here and there. For those of you who have done this sort of thing what kind of productivity might I expect?
 
The 288 will handle spruce of that size quite easily. Birch will be a bit slower, but the saw will handle it fine. I have a J-red 2188 (nearly the same saw) and it blows through 16" cedar with little effort. Just don't overheat it in long cuts and keep the chain sharp (your chain will stay sharp longer in the spruce than the birch). Fresher cut wet wood cuts easier/faster than dry wood.

As far as productivity, I imagine you can cut a 16" width spruce at about a minute per 6ft long cut, maybe a bit quicker or slower depending on how fast you are with putting in wedges. You'll probably have to refuel about every 5 boards at that size (don't let it run out of gas mid-cut).

Also, let the saw cool itself by idling between cuts about 1-2 minutes. Don't just turn it off thinking it'll become cool (the internal fan will cool it better). Another reason to avoid running out of fuel mid-cut.
 
So if i cut two logs an hour that is 16 per day. That seems like a lot. Maybe 10 logs per day?
 
Depends on how wide the log, how long, and how thick the board. Also, as @BobL noted, there's added set up time, and sharpening and refueling. Also, doing the initial cut on the round edge can take a bit more set up to stabilize, depending on what kind of system you have (Alaskan mill will take longer).

And do you want to leave the edges of the boards unfinished, or if you want to square them off first? (that'd be 2 additional cuts on curved edges, with a need for more accuracy in the set-up of those cuts). I just leave the edges rounded, and then square them off on a table saw. I find this easier, saves some wood which would have been lost, but it also takes a bit of time additional as well.

So depending on the log length (2ft long will be way quicker than 8ft long) I'd say its a reasonable guess cutting about 8 to 10 6ftx16" boards per hour if you got a good system down and everything went smooth. But rarely will it always go smooth hour after hour after hour. And then you start to ache. And then you go a bit slower. And then... those beers become pretty irresistible.
 
I think I plan to cut cants first, and stack them up adjacent to the mill. Then cut the cants into boards. It seems like having a battery of ready made chain loops for milling day is he way to go, so I can just swap a chain rather than sharpen on location.
Is there ever a time when beer is not irresistible?
 
I think I plan to cut cants first, and stack them up adjacent to the mill. Then cut the cants into boards. It seems like having a battery of ready made chain loops for milling day is he way to go, so I can just swap a chain rather than sharpen on location. Is there ever a time when beer is not irresistible?

There's a difference between a full sharpen and a quick touch up of the cutters. A quick cutter touch up after every tank of mix (OK maybe after every two tanks in the softer woods) should only take 2 or 3 swipes per cutter. On a 25" bar with 3/8" pitch chain that should not take more than 90s. If you uses progressive raker setting you don't need to worry that much about cutter length so just touching up to remove any glint on the cutter edges is all that is needed.

If the CSM uses conventional clamps you will have to remove the saw from the mill to change the chains so it will take longer to swap chains and adjust chain tension, bear in mind you may have to readjust the tension one more time again after that as chains warms up or stretches. On mills that use bars that are bolted to the mill the chain san be swapped out with the saw on the mill but I still reckon it will still be faster to touch up than swapping for a 25" bar saw.

The time you may wish to consider swapping chains is about every 3 tanks in hard wood (~5-6 tanks in softer wood) when the rakers also need a swipe or two.
I don't swap chains for my 42" or even 60" chains. I can touch up my 42" bar chain in about 3 minutes. While touching up I can inspect all the cutters to see what is happening.

Unless you have machinery to move the logs around, by the time you mill 10 x 20" logs you will know about it until you get used to it.
You will find a cant hook and a mechanism to lift and slope the logs useful - look in my sig.
 
You anywhere near Palmer? If you can get the logs to us, we can cut them pretty quickly. Can do in the area of 500 bd ft an hr.
 
10 logs a day would be a lot of work if they have any size to them. Just the exhaust gas alone is enough that you will need a break every now and then. I am in decent shape and don't mind hard work and the chainsaw mill gives me a run for my money. After a few logs my production slows greatly. Having a helper makes a big difference. You can rotate turns on the saw and help move the logs much easier. Stacking and putting down stickers is time consuming as well. Ten logs a day would be a hard days work for me. Again depending on the size and length.
 
We live around the corner from Colony Schools.
We're on the corner of Outer Springer. $135/hr for sawmill time plus blades if any metal is hit. LT40 Super Hydraulic woodmizer.

10 logs is maybe an hr of work on the Woodmizer, all depending on size and lumber size.

Anyhow if you do decide to DIY, we are also a full service shop for just about any O PE.
 
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