I had some binding on the linkage between the throttle trigger and the carb. The rubber boot was not sliding on the metal linkage rod. I put some oil on it and the binding went away.
Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
- Start date
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an interesting question.
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If you want you can take this survey i made with google forms it will collect only your answers and i will post them often. just asks how many saw kits you bought.
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13TreeWorks
ArboristSite Operative
Well as of tonight mine is running ..... ish ...
Not super impressed its kindof stupid fat and dosent want to tune well. Runs like three toed sloth that likes the sodomy not the pickled penguin i was hoping for.. but it started waking up responding to adjustments about a half tank into it .... then I thought I almost let out the factory smoke .... turned out the woodruff key sheared off. It was dark there was muffler sparklers and general puckering .... yes I degreased the taper ..... it looked like the taper on the flywheel was not contacting properly I could see a ring on the inboard side of the flywheel hub so I filed away at it untill it felt like the actual tapered portion was mating with the crank. Probibally ought to chooch it up and check the actual contact but woodruff keys are cheap so f it ..... and no I dident go buy that genu-weiner stihl bar just for this pinko commie saw .... actually ebayed that like 10 years ago for stupid cheep hell I don't have a harvester so that should tell you how cheep it was 75cm 83dl 404 .... I figure that should cover the stress testing portion as its gonna work this woman of questionable morals like a third world banana cabana show in the shady section of a tourist trap. Btw no shmooo escaping my chinko caps ......yet
Not super impressed its kindof stupid fat and dosent want to tune well. Runs like three toed sloth that likes the sodomy not the pickled penguin i was hoping for.. but it started waking up responding to adjustments about a half tank into it .... then I thought I almost let out the factory smoke .... turned out the woodruff key sheared off. It was dark there was muffler sparklers and general puckering .... yes I degreased the taper ..... it looked like the taper on the flywheel was not contacting properly I could see a ring on the inboard side of the flywheel hub so I filed away at it untill it felt like the actual tapered portion was mating with the crank. Probibally ought to chooch it up and check the actual contact but woodruff keys are cheap so f it ..... and no I dident go buy that genu-weiner stihl bar just for this pinko commie saw .... actually ebayed that like 10 years ago for stupid cheep hell I don't have a harvester so that should tell you how cheep it was 75cm 83dl 404 .... I figure that should cover the stress testing portion as its gonna work this woman of questionable morals like a third world banana cabana show in the shady section of a tourist trap. Btw no shmooo escaping my chinko caps ......yet
How about them compression releases.
This is number two on a 361.
Took it out forth with.
This is number two on a 361.
Took it out forth with.
JimMorrison
The wind blows em down and I cut em up
Hilarious, and yes it is a commie pinko saw
13TreeWorks
ArboristSite Operative
So yeah I tried the commie decomp and a oem one out of a 361..... turns out the commie for the 660 was weaker it was snapping shut half way through the first compression stroke team sauerkraut wins that one
I got mine running last week. Sheared off the woodruff key within about ten seconds, figure I didn't have it seated fully. It tuned pretty good, idles good and revs up good but as I said in a previous post it takes forever to idle back down. Haven't had time to look into that yet. Tested it out saturday while cutting firewood, ran it for about 30 minutes with no problems.
diezelsmoke
ArboristSite Operative
You might want to take a hammer/punch after the nut is tight and go around the flywheel next to the nut and then retighten again after.
Drill the bleed port(s) bigger.
How is everyone tightening the nut? I've built 2 and both with the timing advanced 8° which they liked. One has about 7 hours on it and the other has about 2 hours but it's down right now with a stripped adjuster. Should have went oem like I did I the first but I was giving it a try. Tomorrow it's getting fixed then it's headed back to the guy that cuts trees everyday. He's cut 88 pines with a few 461's with 36" bars. And he's was half way done Tuesday. So this 660 will be wearing a 36" W/ 33 RSLF chain. I sold it cheap because I have no idea how long it will last and he knows it's aftermarket. I feel if the crank will last then the bottom end is solid. That's why stihl last so long.
Dieseldash
ArboristSite Operative
Maybe just take the impact gun to it. I've got one of those small Milwaukee impact drivers that would cinch it up nice and tight
That's what I do On mine. I have the clutch on and the drum off. I then have about 5 paint sticks cut about inch long sticking out around the clutch then lock the chain brake. I can then degree the timing without it moving and then hammer the nut with the a quick blip "a blip is about 1/3-.5 second" from my M18 Fuel that's 3/8". The key is filed almost in half and it doesn't shear.
I use a 1/4" 12v cordless impact, spark plug installed, decomp plug installed without the clutch engaged. My key sheared because I used a screw on the case cover that was 1mm too long and contacted the fins on the flywheel. oops...
At least you found out what happened. And know it won't shear again
