Pushing Length Limits on Splits in Stove?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tla100

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,968
Reaction score
2,477
Location
bfe
Anybody else push their limits when cutting rounds to size to fit in stove? I can squeeze a 24" in my stove, which works out well with my 24" cylinder on splitter. So, technically if I can't split, it won't fit in stove. I have not had one fit yet, but there are a few, like tonight, where if the door didn't have the rope seal, it would not close. So, next time I cut I think I am just gonna go 20" and be done with it. I had a ton of Silver Maple and wanted the longest burn times, but my wife hates the long splits too.

I might try selling some bundles too next year, n got a buddy wanting some 12" lengths for his small firepit. I have been picking a lot of the IBC totes for cheap lately. Maybe have a couple totes around the splitter and separate when splitting. But, got about 2-3 years ahead, even after this burning season.
 
My stove will accommodate 19" pieces but we usually cut to 15-16" length. Seems to the length most customers want & makes it easier to fill our stove. Can also fit 6 rows in the pickup & 6 in trailer, both 8' long.
 
16" is what I normally cut. I might do 10-15 cords a year of longer or shorter out of around 500.
 
The rounds of wood we usually get here (France) are metre 39 1/4"long so as my stove will take approx 22" I just cut the in half
 
What's the reason for such long wood? Do most stoves there take ~40" splits?
 
My stove will take 32in splits. I usually cut to 20 in. My splitter will split 26in lenghts, so if I have a round or two a little long, as long as it will split it will fit. Like your wife, mine doesnt like the longer wood. I always seem to have some short chunks and I will throw them toward the back of the stove and then pack the regular splits in front. This method gets rid of the shorties and gives me longer burn times.
 
I used to split at 20-24 as my fireplace and indoor boiler will take longer wood but if anyone else needs wood they always want 16-18" so that's what I strive for now.
 
Glass stays cleaner with the shorter splits. Stove can take 20" but I prefer to keep under 17.5" because of the ledge in it, so any more it's probably around 16".
 
Anybody else push their limits when cutting rounds to size to fit in stove? I can squeeze a 24" in my stove, which works out well with my 24" cylinder on splitter. So, technically if I can't split, it won't fit in stove. I have not had one fit yet, but there are a few, like tonight, where if the door didn't have the rope seal, it would not close. So, next time I cut I think I am just gonna go 20" and be done with it. I had a ton of Silver Maple and wanted the longest burn times, but my wife hates the long splits too.

I might try selling some bundles too next year, n got a buddy wanting some 12" lengths for his small firepit. I have been picking a lot of the IBC totes for cheap lately. Maybe have a couple totes around the splitter and separate when splitting. But, got about 2-3 years ahead, even after this burning season.
Wow you sound busy. I only got one year ahead so far.
I sold some bagged wood last year for campfire wood to a couple of fellas that sell at nearby campgrounds and it was profitable. Sold 100 bags.
It was bagged in my used pellet bags and I sold for $4 a bag. Mostly Poplar and Pine. We have lots of Poplar and Pine around here that you can scrounge for free.
My wife like handling the smaller splits too. Too heavy she says.
Our woodstove will fit a 20" split, but I mainly do around 16"-18"
 
What's the reason for such long wood? Do most stoves there take ~40" splits?
The reason I do that is my stove will take that length & it gets the fire burning in the whole of the firebox not just in the centre this could be done with shorter pieces but would be more hassle each stoking in having to place the wood splits eases the ongoing chore of more sawing & precision wood placing
 
I can see the benefit of burning longer wood. Less feeding of the firebox and longer burn times. Women, and "old men" find the longer wood harder to handle than the short splits, and I suspect that is because the loading door is to small on about every front loader stove I have ever seen. While my stove will take a 32in log, the door is only about 11x11. Firebox is higher than the door so if your willing to reach inside of the door to place a log, you can get a lot of wood in it. Its just hard to handle a 32in long split of any size when you can only hold onto the end of it while trying to stuff it thru the door.
 
The shop stove firebox is about 4ftx6ft, door is maybe 20x20". (Piece of TAPS pipeline, stove weighs close to a ton). We just do 2 rows of ~2ft splits when filling it (takes about 2 wheelbarrow loads 3-5 times a day)

Processor can do about 2ft and rwally more than that would be too hard to handle. Even 2ft length can get quite heavy (we don't season the wood)
 
Note that most chainsaw bars for firewood are 16" to 20". So, you have a measuring stick right at your command when cutting logs to length. My rule is to add a twinge to the 16" bars and back off a twinge on the 20" bars. Cut dead on the length the 18' bars. Works for me.
 
Furnace holds up to 35". Started cutting around 26-30" but seemed to not season very well. I have since cut down to 18-20". We will see what happens. Getting more than one year ahead now too, that should help.
 
I have been loading some of the really small splits, horizontal, on the top of the long ones and seems like it burns better and gets more air-flow around the wood.
 
Back
Top