Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
I feel your pain. That deserves a big
and a 
. Just did a dish washer replacement this AM. Everything together checking for clearances and realized the electric was routed wrong. Maybe I should have looked at the really tiny pictures a little better 
. Due to lengths of wire and hoses - drain, H2O and electric all back of and back on... But, after its all done 
Don't forget the repair manual. Lots of good stuff in there if you forget something. Page 15 would have had you covered on the rear handle.
That's where Dirko HT is your friend over 1194/1184 and the others. Re-sealing isn't a gooey mess if you need to pull something back apart. It will normally wipe or roll right off in its rubberized state since it isn't designed as an adhesive per se..., only a high temp sealant. Also only needs to be applied to one surface , (not both), for an instant seal which also means you'll typically only need to remove it from one surface if immediate disassembly and re-application is required for whatever reason. In many cases the existing application may even be re-usable. 'Bout the same price as the other popular alternatives if you shop around and buy online. Made by Elring in Germany. Not a Stihl product as many think it is, and may be why the anti-Stihl crowd doesn't give it a second look. Been around a long time in the Euro auto industry and still widely used by Porsche and others.
I certainly hope you are right Poge, I just did some quick internet shopping and bought a tube.
You are right about too many folks believing it is a Stihl product...
Mark
You are right about too many folks believing it is a Stihl product...
Mark
You won't regret your purchase. I think you'll really like it for those Mac short blocks.
Pull cylinder on my 3400 to look at the scaring on the cylinder and piston, they look light so I believe they will clean up. Pull both crank seals and found one seal had a crack in it and the other starting to get stiff. So I decided to strip the saw completely apart and go through the hole thing, notice oil starting at leak at the case halves.
Steve
Steve
Chris came by yesterday and we got to run the 81 for the first time.
Also got the 62 running and pretty much done. It has a bow bar but it is in need of some repairs and will be another project in itself.
Mark you are one hell of a talented chainsaw builder
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Anyone ever seen a Carter carb on a chainsaw? 
Your first thought of Quadrajunk isn't too far off.
Your first thought of Quadrajunk isn't too far off.
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
Looks like you have! Hopefully it doesn't need much
The big Wright reciprocating saws also used the Carter ND, Joe Salve (Sugarcreek Supply) has kits available for them.
The 3400 is now a runner, I may get a chance to use it a bit this coming weekend. Photos will come in a day or two.
Mark
The 3400 is now a runner, I may get a chance to use it a bit this coming weekend. Photos will come in a day or two.
Mark
Only saw a Carter on a 250 6cylinder
Steve
Steve
cowroy
Addicted to ArboristSite
No, but if it's anything like the 650cfm I dealt with, I don't want no part of it
This is not my first go around with the Carter carbs, done 2 before and so far I'm batting .500 on them. The big Wrights like my C70G has a Carter and its a NRD version. I like it better then the ND version on the Remington Super 75GB that I have.
The NRD was something to get going, you have to get it set just perfect for it to start, low needle 3/4 out and high needle like 1 3/4 out.
The ND on the Remington I never did get it figured out. It has a odd fuel pump system in it, has a checkvalve in the inlet pipe and the other in the bottom of the needle and seat assembly. I could get it to run great and would idle for a week, it just never would cut wood without running lean/out of fuel. Finally put a HL on it.
This Poulan FD with the Carter ND is a bit different then the ND on the Remington, H needle on the other side of the carb even. I have the manual for the FD and it gives the carb settings which are completly different then the Remington's.
According to the manual, once setup to begin with, if you have to make a adjustment, you have to adjust both screws together. We will see when I get the Poulan running and mess around with it a bit. Maybe I was just not adjusting the ND on the Remington properly? If I get the Poulan running right, I might have to go revisit the Remy again.
I did get a Sugar Creek diaphragm kit for this like before and even found a NOS Carter ND needle and seat assy with the built in check valve for it.
After taking that carb picture, I dug a bit deeper and found someone had installed the carb gasket upside down, blocking the impulse hole, and then I found one of the 4 reed valves broken completly off. Probably why it got parked years ago.
I have another reed valve and will put the carb gasket on correctly and see what happens.
Has anyone ever come across just the starter pawl or dawg part number for the 3400?, or do you have to buy the whole flywheel if one breaks off at the end.
I see the pawl springs are listed separately.
I see the pawl springs are listed separately.
Yep. The whole flywheel. The pawls are pretty simple to make and the splined studs can be driven out from the rear of the flywheel if you're so inclined. I think I would put a little JB weld on the stud to make sure it says put.
I just edited the post I made above after doing a little research.
I suspect you would find a 5400 IPL with the 5200 piston PN on it and maybe a later 5200 IPL with the 8500 cylinder PN. Looking at my 8500, there's not much room between the cover and the cylinder fins.
If you get a chance to cut with it, I'm pretty sure you'll be impressed. If not, I'll give you $75 for it.
l managed to put on the 5400 cyl 012092 and not the 5200 cyl 11259 according to my lPL. l install new aftermarket piston assy from Lil Red Barn USA, everything seems to go together good. Next step is to fuel it up and hopefully l do not need to pour anymore money into it.
Attachments
Just a question. Is that arrow on the piston suppose to point to the exhaust. I have not tore down a 5200.
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