Fireplace insert

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EDIT: Just looked at picture and seems you have a real fireplace, that's great. You'll still want a real flue to get past the smoke chamber, up into the flue, and to the cap. A flexible flue liner will allow you to just remove the damper door and not hack up the fireplace. There are many types of wood inserts but I'd still consider a good stove that will be more versatile and heat better.

For the flue liner and/or insert checkout Rockford Chimney Supply. They are great people to work with, will do custom/made to order, and are USA and lifetime transferable warranty.
I spoke to the home owner and when they renovated the home he stated that they had a stainless steel insert installed...one of my concerns (maybe due to ignorance) I wander how you clean the chimney without a clean out door or whatever.
 
Bottom up or top down depending on your accessibility. Course if you have one of those impossible steep roofs or are afraid of any heights and can't go from the bottom up well time to open wallet.
 
Bottom up or top down depending on your accessibility. Course if you have one of those impossible steep roofs or are afraid of any heights and can't go from the bottom up well time to open wallet.
No its not a steep roof and no im not afraid of heights however how do you clean from the bottom up??
 
I thought all inserts had to be sleeved and installed by code. (?)

make sure your homeowners policy holder is aware of your intentions. if not and there's ever a problem...you might be screwed.

and check local codes as well. it won't raise your taxes, but it will cover your behind if there was ever a fire problem.
 
I spoke to the home owner and when they renovated the home he stated that they had a stainless steel insert installed...one of my concerns (maybe due to ignorance) I wander how you clean the chimney without a clean out door or whatever.

By insert do you mean stainless flue liner insert?

If the stainless flue liner extends into the fireplace insert you just clean from the top and the creosote fall into the fireplace insert.

If it is a stainless flue liner insert you need to be certain it is compatible with wood fires, and not just for a propane fireplace insert.

When I put in my stainless flue liner it had a cover and a chimney cap which sealed the chimney draft. The liner also had insulation and extended down the tile lined portion of the chimney, into the smokebox, then snaked past the damper frame into the fireplace. Thats where a flue liner would connect to a fireplace insert.

In my case the liner has a T-connector which hangs into the fireplace. The horizontal off the T- connects the woodstove, and the bottom of the T- has a cleanout cap.
 
We put a piece of stone on the floor, but I managed to let a few sparks pop out with the door open, while I went to get wood off the front porch. Didn't like that carpet anyway, Joe.

 
When there is a foot+ of snow on the roof and my dragon in the basement it was bottom up cleaning once a month. NC30 in living room now. Once a year top down. Your mileage may vary.
 
Hello,
Check out the Regency Hearthstove. It is a narrow stove that is designed to sit on the hearth. That way the whole stove is out in the air and not stuffed back into the fireplace opening. We had one at the last house we owned. It worked real well.

Henry and Wanda
 
By insert do you mean stainless flue liner insert?

If the stainless flue liner extends into the fireplace insert you just clean from the top and the creosote fall into the fireplace insert.

If it is a stainless flue liner insert you need to be certain it is compatible with wood fires, and not just for a propane fireplace insert.

When I put in my stainless flue liner it had a cover and a chimney cap which sealed the chimney draft. The liner also had insulation and extended down the tile lined portion of the chimney, into the smokebox, then snaked past the damper frame into the fireplace. Thats where a flue liner would connect to a fireplace insert.

In my case the liner has a T-connector which hangs into the fireplace. The horizontal off the T- connects the woodstove, and the bottom of the T- has a cleanout cap.
I will definitely check to see if compatible with wood !
 
When I put mine in, the insurance guy had to have measurements, how far from point a to b etc.. Like mentioned you might save trouble later by checking with your insurance so you can keep things within codes and insurable for a reasonable price.
Mine i have to let the fire go out to take out ashes. Would like a bigger fire box, but there isn't much extra room in the fireplace to go bigger. Its double wall with an underneath fan blowing the hot air between the walls out its own vents. If the inside wall cracks or seperates it will blow sparks and smoke also that could cause a house fire. Good draft control, modest fires and inspection and maintenance will prevent problems. I don't have much room for pots on top of mine for lack of height. It takes a good size fire to get it hot enough to cook on any way with the double wall. Not with any wood but if I put a very dry large oak or similar about 9" dia on hot coals with a couple small splits, let it get hot , then close the dampner , I get 10 to 12 hrs of good burn time. Wood 1/2 that size seems to burn twice as fast.
 
The appraisal came back today(all 43 pages of it LOL) and it just happened to appraise at what we offered.....so once we get a few other things settled we will be in our new home. I also went over to my local Farm implement store and purchased a Kioti CS2210 w/snow blower and a front bucket! I would like to THANK everybody who replied and I will take all the info I received and take it all into account!
 
Thank you!
Weeeellll....its been a while since I last posted anything. We are finally getting settled in. We ended up installing an Enerzone 1.8 insert. Its a little chilly herebin s.c. pa today so we decided to fire here to season the newness. Its nice n cozy watchin it burn and its seems like it will do us fine considering our home is only 1200 sq.ft. The wife and I have been cutting n splitting for the last 4 weekends and some evenings. We have about 6 cords done and we are too..lol. Its mostly red oak and some elm....glad its out of the way. The previous home owner had a cord of mostly red oak stacked up for the fire pit so we split that and stack it. Hopefully that will get us started.
 
The oak you just split will be 2 years out before usable. Might want get a pallet of compressed wood blocks ( various names Enviro, Bio ect) for this year.
All the wood we did was standing dead...I figured next burning season it would be ready to burn. I did make the splits a little smaller than most of you guys so it would definetly dry out a little faster. There's guys around selling cords of (seasoned)oak for 200.00 bucks a cord however I have a hard time shoveling out the money (tight a$$ for some things). Ill figure out something.....thanks for the info!#6)
 
All the wood we did was standing dead...I figured next burning season it would be ready to burn. I did make the splits a little smaller than most of you guys so it would definetly dry out a little faster. There's guys around selling cords of (seasoned)oak for 200.00 bucks a cord however I have a hard time shoveling out the money (tight a$$ for some things). Ill figure out something.....thanks for the info!#6)
your not to far from the firewood auction in Shippensburg if ya need dry wood and early season prices aren't to bad. i've bought 1/2 cords of oak for as little as $50. dead dry ash was bring $75 a 12 foot dump trailer unsplit.
 
your not to far from the firewood auction in Shippensburg if ya need dry wood and early season prices aren't to bad. i've bought 1/2 cords of oak for as little as $50. dead dry ash was bring $75 a 12 foot dump trailer unsplit.
Thanks Farmer Steve.....I would really appreciate any details on this action. I googled it and the only thing I have seen was hay n produce auctions......maybe the same place and/or time? Like said any specifics is appreciated!
 
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