Makita DCS 6401 Service manual?

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Calisdad

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
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Location
Groveland, CA
I'm looking for coil test and installation specs.

I've had this saw for 8 years now. 6 years ago I put the Bailey 7900 kit on it.
Recently I used it for dropping some pine trees and it worked fine.
When I put it on my mill it was pretty gutless.
After it got hot it wouldn't restart.
I put a carb kit on it just in case and it won't start at all now.
It has very weak spark.

So, does anyone know the coil testing specs and the proper setting from the magneto?
How about a source for a new coil?
Cheapest new one I can find is $140.
Also is it true you can fry the coil if it's used without a resistor plug.
Lastly- what the heck is a welch plug?

Thanks-
Calisdad
 
Welch plug is in carb. It blocks off certain areas from certain areas. Its like a removeable wall. But you have to replace it of you pull it out.

Did you adjust the carb properly ? Did you install the carb kit properly? Im not jacking with you. If its not put back together properly bad stuff happens. Did you adjust the needle lever properly? Is it a tillotson? Walbro? Zama? Model of carb? What was the carb kit number you used?

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
romad10 the kit was marked RB-101. It was in a Zama bag so looks like a factory kit. Carb is Zama.
I'm guessing the welch plug is the elongated convex part. I never removed the original.
I had the needle assembly in and out 3 times. There is movement but it is ever so slight. What is the proper adjustment?

I'm thinking my coil quits when it heats up.
I didn't see any resistance readings in the manuals Ray sent (Thanks Ray!).
Do you happen to know the appropriate range?

I appreciate the help. I'm in the middle of Central California's pine beetle die off and have a lot of wood left to cut.
 
What model zama and ill send ya a pic later.. Yes, correct on thr elongated convex explanation.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
Dang- Finally!
After setting the magneto gap to .012" I got my spark back.
It fired up but was a quick blast and quit like it was out of gas.
Flooded plug after flooded plug I took the top of the carb off.
I had put the mesh gasket in after the fiber one so I switched them.
It fires up and runs gangbusters but I don't have it tuned right.
I have to keep the idle too high or it dies.
Progress but I'm not there yet.
 
[emoji12].. I figured it was the gap ;)....

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
You good on tuning carbs? If not take it to someone that is and give him a few bucks ;)

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
I probably should.
I don't have a tach but I'm 25 miles from the nearest saw shop.
I'll give it a go in the morning.
Thanks for the help.
 
Guess who's back?

I ran my saw on the mill last week.
Seemed to run pretty good but it still lacked some power.
I ran through 1 tank of gas on 5' of a cut of sugar pine about 24" wide.
I usually get 2 to 4 cuts, 8' long on a tank.
So I did a compression test and came up with 120- 125#.
Of course I didn't think to put some oil in the cylinder and so it again- too easy.
I ordered a piston and ring kit with a couple of new fuel filters.
I got those today (ordered a new carb too but it's back ordered).
I'm figuring I need 150#+ but I reading otherwise.

So the smart thing to do (why start now) is have the existing carb tuned befrore I tear it down? No?
 
Man- I'm at wits end with this thing.
I have no top end power!
Rebuilt the carb- no help.
Put a new carb on- NO help!

I really don't think the muffler is clogged but I may just soak it in solvent just for grins.
I'm thinking 1- I have a bad coil or 2-heck- I dunno. clogged tank vent?

Any ideas?
 

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