Do New Chainsaws Need To Be Gently Broken In?

[Welllit]

If so, why?

I recently bought a new 5hp (or so) Honda lawn mower (yes, I know it's not a chainsaw, but it is a low cc - high rev engine) and it didn't need a break in period or low rev requirement for a bunch of break in hours, so why do chainsaws?

I read that one chainsaw I was interested in buying requires you not to (1) fully rev engine for the first 10 hours.

10 hours?

This sounds like a really out dated technology requirement. Of course, maybe I'm being unreasonable...?

(2) Given the difficulty (at least for me) in having to be that careful about the number of break in hours (ten), plus I've yet to see a chainsaw with an attached hour meter, this sounds sounds more than a little challenging.

So, how do I accomplish these two requirements?

Honestly, without the gentle touch for the revving break in period and the number of break in hours required, that is without using a stopwatch and a log, how the heck do you do this?

Can't mfgs. overcome these burdensome requirements or am I being unrealistic?

Or, as I suspect (don't know) technology in these 2 areas is way out of date.

Please, guys, educate me!

Thanks!

 

[GrassGuerilla]

If so, why?

I recently bought a new 5hp (or so) Honda lawn mower (yes, I know it's not a chainsaw, but it is a low cc - high rev engine) and it didn't need a break in period or low rev requirement for a bunch of break in hours, so why do chainsaws?

I read that one chainsaw I was interested in buying requires you not to (1) fully rev engine for the first 10 hours.

10 hours?

This sounds like a really out dated technology requirement. Of course, maybe I'm being unreasonable...?

(2) Given the difficulty (at least for me) in having to be that careful about the number of break in hours (ten), plus I've yet to see a chainsaw with an attached hour meter, this sounds sounds more than a little challenging.

So, how do I accomplish these two requirements?

Honestly, without the gentle touch for the revving break in period and the number of break in hours required, that is without using a stopwatch and a log, how the heck do you do this?

Can't mfgs. overcome these burdensome requirements or am I being unrealistic?

Or, as I suspect (don't know) technology in these 2 areas is way out of date.

Please, guys, educate me!

Thanks!

Don't overthink this. Go cut wood with it, it'll be fine. Don't run it wide open out of the wood initially (or really much ever). Do run it wide open in the wood under load. Once through the cut, let off, simple. Don't run it partial throttle in the cut. Chainsaw are mainly intended to run wide open, but they don't want you running it wide open with no load during break in.

And fwiw, that Honda engine is totally different. 4 -cycle vs 2, and it is governed at a relatively low rpm. It's a no brainer. That Honda is running roughly 5000 rpms vs a chainsaw at roughly 13,000 rpms

 

[GrassGuerilla]

And in a word, no... chainsaws do not need to be gently broken in. Just don't piss rev it to the max with no load. But again, do run it wide open in the cut under load. They don't want you hitting 13,500 rpms with a brand new tight engine. Under load it won't rev that high so let her rip.

Do you think a logger or arborist can take it easy for a few days while they break in a new saw? No... they run em like they stole em.

 

[Welllit]

Thank you both!

Now I know!

Thanks again!!

 

[Welllit]

Whoops, I just noticed 2 replies from the same person...

Given the break in parameters, I'm guessing this is the mfgs. cover if a consumer has a problem with the saw and they the mfgs. can always say the consumer broke in the saw wrong?

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Yes you have the info that you need to safely get your saw up to perfect condition. Many folks advise that the oil be added to the fuel mix for maximum protection. Not such a good plan. If more oil is added to the mix what happens to the fuel. So with a oil rich mixture the fuel is leaner and oil burns hotter than a normal mix. Just take it easy for a few hours and then run it like it was stolen. Thanks

 

[Welllit]

Ted,

I've only used the pre-mixed (costly, but man, what convenience) fuel.

Up until very recently, throughout the years I haven't used my chain saw all that much so buying the pre-mixed hasn't been all that hard on my wallet and it lasts for years without going bad. Even in the tank it's good for 2 years. I highly recommend it if you're an occasional user of a chain saw. I've never had any trouble ever getting my saw to start using this stuff.

Thank you for your response.

Much appreciated.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I do not think that fuel that is more than three months old is the best, but as you have pointed out it is working for you. I am sure that premixed fuel starts with a very high quality formula so it could withstand months of storage.. Thanks

 

[Welllit]

Ted,

I had a health issue a few years back and didn't use my saw for over 18 months. I left about half a tank of the pre-mix in the saws tank.

When I went to use it, I topped it off with a fresh can of the same pre-mix.

It started right up (well, 3 pulls) and stayed strong.

I'm tellin ya, the pre-mix is great stuff.

3 month or 18 month old regular gas I would've poured out of the tank and crossed my fingers, filled with fresh and hoped like crazy if it would even start...

 

[JTM]

Listen snowflake, and I do resemble that remark, those are guidelines. Use the damned saw for what it was designed and don't get your panties in a wad over the infantismal measurement of break-in time. Just don't stand around piss reving it. The saw was made to be in contact with wood.

 

[Welllit]

JTM,

Man, you are one friendly guy.

Snowflake?

I'm probably old enough to be your Grandfather...

"infantismal" eh?

That's one way to misspell it.

It's spelled "infinitesimal" junior...

I'll also add, I live in Texas where most of us detest "snowflakes" which I am most assuredly not.

I was an Army combat soldier MOS 11-C10 (67-73) trained in every small arms the Army had, and crew served weapons (81 MM Mortars).

As a small nod in the direction of conservatism, I've been licensed to either conceal or open carry a pistol, which I've been doing for almost 20 years and still compete in The International Defensive Pistol Association matches.

How about you?

Do anything other than just post offensive words?

 

[CTYank]

I've found it to help with break-in of a new saw, if I:

1. Run it hard in cuts strictly @WOT, after maybe 15-30 sec fast-idle warmup.
2. Every few minutes of that, let it idle for mebbe 30 seconds, for a wee cool-down.
3. When finished cutting, give it ~30 sec @idle again. Good procedure also, with "experienced" saw.

None of them show probs after that. Could be luck, too.

 

[Welllit]

CTYank,

Thank you sir.

I very much appreciate your help!

 

[JTM]

JTM,

Man, you are one friendly guy.

Snowflake?

I'm probably old enough to be your Grandfather...

"infantismal" eh?

That's one way to misspell it.

It's spelled "infinitesimal" junior...

I'll also add, I live in Texas where most of us detest "snowflakes" which I am most assuredly not.

I was an Army combat soldier MOS 11-C10 (67-73) trained in every small arms the Army had, and crew served weapons (81 MM Mortars).

As a small nod in the direction of conservatism, I've been licensed to either conceal or open carry a pistol, which I've been doing for almost 20 years and still compete in The International Defensive Pistol Association matches.

How about you?

Do anything other than just post offensive words?

Sir, I was being facetious and sarcastic. I included " I resemble that remark " as a qualifier to that and an attempt at self deprecating humor. Thank you for the reprimand and thank you for your service. I apologize for my offensive comments and accept that not everyone appreciates my warped sense of humor, of which I am occasionally reminded and accept in contrite humility. It was not my intention to be offensive and by no means was I intending to be mean spirited. If you served during Vietnam you may call me junior only because you just may be a few years older but not much. I do know how to spell infinitesimal but my stubby, clumsy fingers combined with spell check just doesn't always work out. I hope you have a great weekend.

 

[Welllit]

JTM,

Hey man, let's be friends.

I've no animosity towards you.

I wish you a great week-end too!

 

[JTM]

JTM,

Hey man, let's be friends.

I've no animosity towards you.

I wish you a great week-end too!

10-4

 

[7sleeper]

I have the same procedure for all my equipment, irrespectable if brand new or broken in.

When going wood cutting I put on my chaps and then prior to cutting wood I start the saw and let it idle while putting on my helmet, eye & ear protection and gloves. This time span is enough to warm up the engine as required. Then I cut the tree from the tree top to the trunk. With that technique the tun / idle timespan is excelent with constantly longer run times. If I only have small wood and want to give the saw a nice run cycle, I "noodle" quite a few pieces. That taxes the engine enough to get it nice and hot as needed for a run in process.

Then again last one should not forget that modern engines are manufactured to such tight tolerances that run in time is mainly a thing of yesterdecade.

7

 

[JeffreyZirkle]

I've found it to help with break-in of a new saw, if I:

1. Run it hard in cuts strictly @WOT, after maybe 15-30 sec fast-idle warmup.
2. Every few minutes of that, let it idle for mebbe 30 seconds, for a wee cool-down.
3. When finished cutting, give it ~30 sec @idle again. Good procedure also, with "experienced" saw.

None of them show probs after that. Could be luck, too.

This


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[northmanlogging]

skipped the middle....

Anyway, buy saw put gas and oil in, fire it up, cut wood, pin the throttle only when in a cut, try not to rev the snot out of it, otherwise no worries

I run mine a little thick on the mix oil (40/45-1 ish instead of the standard 50-1), but its not necessary, mine get horribly abused daily, and they absolutely have to run. 3 or 4 years on em with more or less daily use and only minor issues (detonated a spark plug wtf? and bent a few bars)

I know a guy that likes to mill slabs, and cuts fire wood with just the tip, on full throttle... Think he's on his second piston and jug in less then a year on the same saw, so... its all about how you use em.

 

[Jim Timber]

I run 40:1 and non-oxy gas (only comes in 92 octane here). Leave fuel in saws for 6-7 months and they fire up fine.

The only down side is that my carb rebuilding skills are getting stale.

Left 87 octane untreated corn crap gas in my genset for 9 mo's and had to boil the bowl gasket for it to shrink enough to go back into the lands - and remove the shellac off everything inside it.

Ethanol doesn't seem to bother my fuel injected atv, and the gas in my Tahoe is 13 months old and it still runs fine (just a farm truck now).