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It's easy to tell if there too high. They will get shiny from rubbing the wood. I use my die grinder to take the rakers down and use a gauge to make sure there right. Filling them with a flat file is not as easy as sharpening the teeth.
I don't understand that, I find it way easyer to file the rakers than to sharpen the cutters, and in 1/3 the time.
 
+1 on depth gauges (rakers). I eye-balled them once and the saw vibrated violently while in the cut. Was a lesson learned.
I seem to remember doing that once, back when. Learned instantly that I shouldn't repeat it. A 6" flat file in Granberg "File-N-Joint" can be used to file them down to the depth you want. (Generally .025-.040" for me.) The big challenge is just how far to take them down, then how to optimally shape them.
Seems Carlton "file-o-plate" was one of the better tools for shaping them and progressively lowering them as the cutters get filed back. Husqy's "filing kit" widget gets them to where they work well for me, for milling or normal crosscutting. Too bad it's made of such soft steel, as compared to Carlton's. (The file-o-plate I have is for LP chain, sadly.) IMO this is an area in need of much investigation.
Then, what really sux is when you get a chain where it cuts within an inch of perfection, and you hit a nail, a really big nail, with it. Good reason not to get OC with all this.
 
I use the plate on the husky roller guide, I have .325 & .375 & they seem hard enough.
That's likely the tool I'm using. Maybe mine's from a bad batch, not enough carbon in the alloy or improperly heat-treated. Use it on a few 32" loops and it's easy to see how the flat has dug into it. (The flat file in that kit is a keeper.) You seldom have to do that on a given chain of course, but still I'd expect a bit more durability. Really easy to see the metallurgical difference from the "File-O-Plate".

I like how the chain cuts after filing the depth gauges with that guide, on a 576XP w/32" milling. What's your take on how it preps the chain?
 
You need to file to a point as most of the cutting is done for the first 1mm along the top and down the side.

I gauge teeth length so they are consistent left and right for a couple of teeth where I'm sharpening, to prevent the saw from cutting curves. You can also file rakers to correct a saw that is cutting curves.
 
You need to file to a point as most of the cutting is done for the first 1mm along the top and down the side.

I gauge teeth length so they are consistent left and right for a couple of teeth where I'm sharpening, to prevent the saw from cutting curves. You can also file rakers to correct a saw that is cutting curves.

As long as it's not cutting circles, hand position can alter the direction of your cut. You can correct a slight angled cut with hand position. If it drifts try changing hand position.
 
That's likely the tool I'm using. Maybe mine's from a bad batch, not enough carbon in the alloy or improperly heat-treated. Use it on a few 32" loops and it's easy to see how the flat has dug into it. (The flat file in that kit is a keeper.) You seldom have to do that on a given chain of course, but still I'd expect a bit more durability. Really easy to see the metallurgical difference from the "File-O-Plate".

I like how the chain cuts after filing the depth gauges with that guide, on a 576XP w/32" milling. What's your take on how it preps the chain?
I like the results I get with these, and mine are not cut by the files.
I've been using the same ones for about 5 years.
 
Personally I prefer hand filing all my chains unless I rock one pretty bad, but I have not rocked one in a year or so. I use the Oregan file guide and raker guide.


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