Husky 350 Continued Issues

[Aggie 2012]

Good mornin Fellas,

So I took Brads advice on using my gasket sealer to fix this air leak on these seals that we talked about yesterday.

Reassembled the saw. Pressure and vacuum tested this morning with no issues.

Installed flywheel and clutch.

Started the saw fine. She fluttered around idle for a couple of seconds then jumped straight back up to 1/2 or 3/4 throttle.

Took it halfway apart once more and again I pressure and vaccum tested with the same results. (No issues holding 8 psi or neg pressure)

I am stuck as if what to do other than sticking this saw on the burn pile with the tree that I cut up using a STIHL saw. Haha!

Please let me know your thoughts.






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[cus_deluxe]

Have u replaced fuel line? Im assuming pulse line is being tested along with the crankcase.

 

[Aggie 2012]

Hello CD

Yes sir I sure did. It's a brand new fuel line.
Also the impulse line is tied into the intake boot do it was pressurized and vacd during my testing.
I'm wondering if the metering side of the carb might be stuck halfway open?
It's just hard for me to think it's air leak related anymore.



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[cus_deluxe]

hmmm....are you sure the carb is good?

 

[Aggie 2012]

Not sure on the carb. I took it apart and cleaned all the orifices but did not replace any of the diaprams or gaskets.


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[cus_deluxe]

Then doin a carb kit/replacement carb would be my next step.

 

[Aggie 2012]

You think that would cause it to run half throttle?

It's worth a shot I guess since a carb kit is only a few $.


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[cus_deluxe]

If by half throttle you mean a racing idle and wont return to low rpms after giving throttle then yes. Im assuming all the carb adjustments are right and the throttle linkage is working normally?

 

[Aggie 2012]

Yes sir I believe all that is good to go.
I'm gonna order the rebuild kit today and I'll let you know later in the week how she runs.

Can't thank you enough for your help.

Enjoy the rest of your sunday


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[cus_deluxe]

Haha well i responded a few times, not sure how useful any of it is. Good luck and keep us posted

 

[blsnelling]

I have several brand new 346XP carbs, taken off and replaced with 357 carbs. PM me your address and I'll send you one.

 

[dugide]

buy a carb on ebay, they are cheap.

 

[dugide]

thats even cheaper. lol

I have several brand new 346XP carbs, taken off and replaced with 357 carbs. PM me your address and I'll send you one.

 

[Aggie 2012]

Thanks Brad for the 346 carb! The saw starts and doesn't Race to have throttle right away so I think the problem is fixed!

Can't thank you enough for sending that to me, along with the new filter and housing.


Question though.
Do I need to block this primer port on the carb?

The 350 carb does not have the option for a primer bulb.

Would anyone also know the optimum rpm specs for this saw?

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[Westboastfaller]

? I had One in 2002 but I'll do a manual search and go to technical data. I'm thinking 13,5OO

The next question. Its not a vent and its no longer been used for fuel so yeah I would say you are going to need to close out the circuit.

 

[blsnelling]

Crimp it shut.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Came up short getting a match on max revs under technical data 340/345/350. They all list about everything but that. they list power speed
at 9000 rpm
Google Husqvarna 350 service manual. There is one under husqvarna. com that may be different but its a down load
In the manuals the context is on page 3 , technical data is p34 -35

 

[Westboastfaller]

Sneaky! It was under carb adjustments on P38. It is usually in technical data as well.

Paste copy below...

Carburettor – adjustment
For instructions on adjusting the EPA carburettor
see appendix A.
Adjusting the carburettor involves adjusting the
engine to the local conditions e.g. climate, alti-
tude, fuel and type of two-stroke oil.
The carburettor is equipped with three adjustment
options.
L = Low speed jet
H = High speed jet
T = Idling adjustment screw
The L and H jets adjust the fuel flow to match the
airflow that the throttle valve opening allows.
Turning them clockwise makes the fuel/air mixture
weaker (less fuel in relation to the amount of air)
and turning them anti-clockwise makes the fuel/air
mixture richer. A weak mixture increases the
engine speed and a rich mixture decreases the
engine speed.
The T screw controls the throttle position when
idling. Turning the T screw clockwise gives faster
idling; turning it anti-clockwise lowers idling
speed.
WARNING!
The guide bar, chain and clutch
cover must be fitted before the
saw is started, otherwise the
clutch may fly off and cause inju-
ry.
Basic settings and running in
During testing at the factory the carburettor is
adjusted to the basic factory settings.
The factory settings are H = 1 turn and L = 1
turn.
To ensure that engine components receive
adequate lubrication (running in) the carburet-
tor should be set to a somewhat richer fuel
mixture for the chainsaw's first 3-4 running
hours. This is done by adjusting the maximum
speed to 6-700 rpm less than the recom-
mended maximum speed.
If it is not possible to check the maximum speed
with a tachometer then the H jet should not be set
to a weaker mixture than the basic factory setting.
The recommended maximum speed must not be
exceeded.
NOTE!
If the chain turns at idling speed, the T
screw should be turned anti-clockwise
until the chain stops.
Fine adjustment
Once the chainsaw is "run in" the carburettor should
be readjusted. First adjust the L jet screw, then the
idling screw T and finally the H jet screw.
The recommended engine speeds are as follows:
Model
Max revs
340
12,500 rpm
345
12,500 rpm
346XP/G
14,200 rpm
350
13,000 rpm
350 EPA
13,000 rpm
351
13,000 rpm
353
13,000 rpm

 

[Aggie 2012]

Thanks Men! I sure appreciate your guidance here.

That part where it says "Warning, clutch may fly off without cover"
Yea that just happened.
Now I am out here in the grass next to my shop with a big magnet looking for the caged clutch bearing.
Haha!

I still have irregular idle issues even with brass brand spanking new carb so apparently I've done something yet. Idles okay then it hopes up to half throttle and after 30 more seconds or so I am at 3/4 throttle.

Seems like the air leak might become more and more pronounced as the saw warms up?
Guess I should try to pressure test this thing while she's warm eh?


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[Aggie 2012]

Not brass,
BRADS brand spanking new carb.
Gotta love a phone that thinks it's smarter than the operator. (A lot of the times it may be)


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