Huztl MS660

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I am new here.... but have checked out Hutzl.net pricing for the MS660. The kits are certainly priced attractively, but they gone since thread first started? Or, do they offer occasional specials.

Seems like several paid $140 initially and now are tracking at $186?
I paid $186 for mine. No problems with the chain tensioner or the chain brake on mine. Just got it two weeks ago
 
I got mine off Arbortec.com for $140 last month when they were the deal of the day. Got delivered within 2 weeks as well.
 
Perhaps 2 weeks is a little early to give the thumbs up on Chinese parts. After 2 years I could take your recommendation more seriously.
I should have clarified my statement in saying all the problems that people were having with the chain adjuster and the brake didn't happen with my saw. Everything went together well and worked as they should. The carb is another story as it leaks fuel with the screws turned all the way in to the stops
 
Thanks to this thread I Finished building mine today, first time doing a saw from the ground up. My chain adjuster and chain brake worked well, I also had the brass grommets for the top cover and the summer/winter flap included. Only things I was missing was 3 nuts for the dogs. I just built it as is, no OEM parts and no base gasket. 2 things I had to adjust was the on/off/choke wasn't set up properly and I had to pull it apart to put it all in the correct order, and the catch for the chain oiler was bent slightly wrong and didn't catch the brake drum so the oiler wasn't working but was easy enough to rectify.

It popped on the 5th pull on full choke then started and idled after another 7-8 pulls with no choke. Haven't tuned it yet but set the low and high at 1-1/4 turns out as suggested earlier in this thread.
 

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Did you do a pressure test. Your saw is new and the #1 issue is a leak. That can and will cause what you face. Head bolts, exhaust ....

Another thing I guess your impluse line is on the carb?


So I finally got the saw running it did have a leak at the head. Once that was fixed the carb still wasn't letting fuel thru to the motor. Ended up getting another carb and once installed it started right up.
 
So I finally got the saw running it did have a leak at the head. Once that was fixed the carb still wasn't letting fuel thru to the motor. Ended up getting another carb and once installed it started right up.

Have you tried it out in some wood?
Check and see if it holds a tune.
My tune might change some going from cold to hot weather but other than that it shouldn't change. This one holds a tune good running a walbro wj-76 carb. 25" bar
 
Has anybody solved the kill switch issue only full choke, run and off no fast idle setting as on the oem stihl the problem seems to be where the finger trigger lobe touches the inner kill switch lobe I've tried an oem switch and no luck the issue seems to be in the orange housing where the switch sits in the recessed grooves there about 3mm to deep


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I used a straw I cut into a canoe and strapped it to the switch along the bottom raising it like the orange had more and it worked perfect. My saw I built last month did not have that trouble. I just got another kit left China today we will see when it arrives.

I might have had to use several layers can't recall how many.

Edit
I think it was 4 and I used a flat thin tie to hold the them in place around the bar
 
Your right it's the left side slot. It's to loose. I used a piece of leather off a glove and put it in the groove behind the control switch to temp fix one. Then I made a small plastic bushing later. I don't have a pic at the moment
 
Your right it's the left side slot. It's to loose. I used a piece of leather off a glove and put it in the groove behind the control switch to temp fix one. Then I made a small plastic bushing later. I don't have a pic at the moment
Good old days figuring it out
 
I am sure this has been covered before in this thread, but I'm to lazy to read through 155 pages this morning, I was trying this new build out last weekend doing some milling, and true to form after about 10mins the top of the decompressor valve fell off, so have ordered a stihl one to replace that, all went well with no other problems occurring, but when i went in to the shed last evening, the half a tank of fuel had managed to disappear and it seems to have run down from the carb area (don't seem to be able to add a pic). I'm thinking the valve in the carb might not be shutting? any suggestions welcome.
 
...but when i went in to the shed last evening, the half a tank of fuel had managed to disappear and it seems to have run down from the carb area (don't seem to be able to add a pic). I'm thinking the valve in the carb might not be shutting? any suggestions welcome.

It could be other things but most likely would be the section of fuel line between the carb and the elbow leaking at the carb.
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ok thanks will have a better look, took the filter and that backing piece off and it all just looks wet.
 
Built the 066 kit onky part missing was the oil seal for pump but cut one from spare fuel line in kit till i ordered one from stihl.verry happy with performance of saw. A friend purchased one last year and has cut a lot of jarrah timber over our winter and is more than happy with saw. I have just built the 070 kit which looks awesome and runs great. looking forward to using it on a mill
 
Just got through putting another top end on my brothers 660 ,the cylinder and piston have failed ,looks like the cylinder is chrome not nicasil,has worn through in a few places,rest of the saw is good ,replaced the top end with a meteor and she's going good again ,would I buy one ,yes ,but I won't be running the hutzl p&c

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Just got through putting another top end on my brothers 660 ,the cylinder and piston have failed ,looks like the cylinder is chrome not nicasil,has worn through in a few places,rest of the saw is good ,replaced the top end with a meteor and she's going good again ,would I buy one ,yes ,but I won't be running the hutzl p&c

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How much run time on that failed Huztl P/C?
 
I've got one that's got about 10-15 gallons through it. I'm going to put a oem bearing in soon before it fails and I'll see how the cylinder looks.
 
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