Husky 445 from Hell

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What brand fuel line did you use? There is some crap line out there that has a liner the will come apart and cause a restriction.

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So i havent replaced the fuel line but ill tell you what ive done.

When i got it i flushed the tank out of any possible sour fuel and or debris. I then threw a new fuel filter in, even though the one that was one there didnt look to bad. I then filled it up and detached the fuel line from the carb. I have a small hand held vacuum pump and i was able to draw fuel through the line with ease for about 10 seconds. The fuel came out solid and wasnt airaided or anything like that, line didnt seem to collapse either. It just seems wierd but the saw will sit there and idle for minutes appon end but as soon as you put a load on it...boggg

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If it was an air leak it would affect idle mixture more. How are you adjusting the carb - do you have the tool? If it's like my Dad's 455 you can make a small adjustment with the slotted screw, but to make further adjustments required the splined tool. Does the L mixture needle change the idle mixture?

If you have the tool and the adjustment is not making any change to the mixture you need to find out what is limiting the fuel flow to the H circuit.
 
you replaced the carb but not the fuel lines? Did you do your line test with the filter on? Filter can cause enough resistance to collapse a bad line that flows free without. My practice is to just replace the whole fuel system at once, filter, hoses, primer bulb ECT. Especially if you are replacing the carb. But that is just my rule. Saves guess work. That and most saws never have any of that changed so not a bad thing to offer on a service.
 
you replaced the carb but not the fuel lines? Did you do your line test with the filter on? Filter can cause enough resistance to collapse a bad line that flows free without. My practice is to just replace the whole fuel system at once, filter, hoses, primer bulb ECT. Especially if you are replacing the carb. But that is just my rule. Saves guess work. That and most saws never have any of that changed so not a bad thing to offer on a service.
You'd like the saw I just worked on, I changed almost everything on the saw because it was all bad. I guess I should have just gone downtown and bought the guy a new saw..I think I changed everything but the handle and the muffler...
 
Sorry..have not read the thread at this time. Glanced at the vid twice.
I'm sure it's getting choked. Do you know the history?? If it's the wrong choke it may do that. I put an xtorq choke on my oe and it wouldn't come all the way up. Need to try it with the choke lever disassembled.
It was hard to hear the firing with you revving it up. Almost seemed a little slow? If it is then it's the coil out of time. That will definitely do that if you can get it to run. Usually sounds slower like a huge single cylinder gas piston starting up like they had in the double ended fish boats of the 1930's Easton? I think.
You would be getting fuel out the muffler and decompression though.
 
No one has mentioned this so I would guess my suggestion is all wet,.. but here it is. Get another compression tester and try again to be sure, but I know my partners would barely run with only 135# all mine "the 5000 series at least" run between 165# and 185#. Now in the meantime maybe someone here can check their 445's and report back with their compression readings? I know they vary greatly from make to make so probably 135# is real high for that type saw I don't know? In any case keep at it read all the posts clearly and try them all, everyone here will try their level best to help ya, Good luck Jeff
 
Ok so the history of the saw is it was a landscaper down the street from me used for odd jobs. He bought it new at Lowes and used it for a couple years but went to go start it this spring and it wouldn't start. That's when it ended up at my place. It really does not look like a was ever run hard, abused, etc. One thing he noted what even new the saw always started "hard" and would need 5-10 pulls to get it going.

Fuel line...it has not been replaced yet. At this point it might not hurt, but again...my vacuum pump pulled a very steady line of fuel from the fuel line. No air, no buddles, did not seem like it was obstructed, colapsing, etc.

Carb adjustment. Again i resorted to a new carb because i figured it was bad. I removed the limiters and have the splined tool to adjust the set screws. i started at the factory settings and tried multiple adjustments in many different ways on both L & H screws. No difference. I do have a pretty good amount of experience doing this, ive rebuilt/repaired about dozens saws now

This thing is straight up "the husky from hell". I almost want to buy one that's running and just start swapping parts back and forth.

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Hey take the chain brake off buddy!

Lol

"Sounds like" it's coçk frozen
1) It will do one of two things when it's frozen. You will get a fuel restriction and cause it to scream, and flutter down to a race Or just scream and stall
2) OR... it does this^^^when it can't get the air intake by freezing.
Or oxygen definitely if you are too close to a fire or the intake sucks in the exhaust when cutting windows in large trees?

Just a few questions

Just bare with me here

Are you seeing any icicles on the inside of the shop? Does there appear to be a lot of smoke in their?
Do you find yourself coughing a lot?
or maybe feeling a little lethargic and yawning a lot. What's the oxygen level? have you checked it lately?
They say the only stupid question in industry is the question that was never asked:rolleyes:
Well I'm just sharing my similar problems....all of them.

unless you have a vent causing a back flow but should cause a starting issues.
No paper stuffed in the ports?


Try prime with a different fuel.
Like it was said take the filter off and make sure nothing is closing by vacuum. make sure it's the right choke or take it off. Maybe the linkage got bent or something is impending it? do what you have to do.
You know it's got oxygen and good fuel and the choke isn't comming on then it has to be ignition. Simple as..

A vid with it just idling works for me.
 
tried multiple adjustments in many different ways on both L & H screws. No difference.
When you say "no difference", do you mean that they don't make any difference in regard to the problem, or that they don't have any effect in regards to adjusting the mixture? I realize that since it won't rev up you might not be able to tell if the H is working.
 
Guess i can share some good news...
My 50$ yard sale 61 is running like a butte. It will need a new recoil spring, and the Walbro carb is a little touchy. So heres the current workbench line up: the hell saw, yard sale 61, my fathers(now mine) 61
fda90e870f0f9ef3dd1cb72c1a3a78af.jpg


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When you say "no difference", do you mean that they don't make any difference in regard to the problem, or that they don't have any effect in regards to adjusting the mixture? I realize that since it won't rev up you might not be able to tell if the H is working.
They make no difference in regards to the problem, it doesnt matter if i go in or out on the H screw it will still bog and then die. Same situation with the L, the L will have a typical effect on the idle speed but its doesnt matter if you go in or out, squeeze the trigger and she dies

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Assuming the intake tract/boot is sealed up & not leaking, I'd put a cheap Harbor Fright in-line spark tester on that saw & start it, then watch for the spark to die off at speeds above idle.

After all the futile fuel side work that you've tried, the video sounds more like an ignition coil breakdown.
I exammed the boot very thoroughly...no defects
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One thing he noted what even new the saw always started "hard" and would need 5-10 pulls to get it going.

Fuel line...it has not been replaced yet.
I agree with Kenskip1... to much emphasis on fuel or the wrong area. Many thingss you could have bypassed by priming with a different fuel If it works then you go back to that end.
You start to do things out of order & desperation and become your own worst enemy. Building the saw is all nuts and bolts.
If it's the coil going out you general see fuel comming out of the muffler and decompression.

*The hard starting thing?
That's seems to be common with a lot of "newer saw" on hot starts (562) I had an issue like that when I had a fuel leak in the line with my 372. if I took the cap and filter off it would clear the fumes and it would start right away. Same thing if you get sloppy filling the tank spill a bunch in the side. It won't start right away.
Now I just take the cap off right away. One guy on here "Moondogie"
was sent a cap with a hole in it and it "cured the problem". I assumed it to be the problem before I heard that from him from my experiences.
There has been talk of superior vents used and/or eliminating the primer bulb fixing the "real issue" but not everyone agrees. Apparently it's not on all of the saws in the class either. That makes me believe it is the vent fuming out the air box on those saws causing starting issues
Keep in mind you are using av gas too so?..... there would have been a few simple things I would have focused on and moved forward to the ignition.[/QUOTE]
 
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