Converting my ms362 to standard carb

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I've had bad luck with my 2012 low hour ms362c. It keeps running very lean. I don't think the second throttle valve adds fuel. I'm done messing with it not into new Skool tech anyway and didn't know about the mtronic when i bought it used back in February. Anyway I think it blew up or somthing not really sure. It lost compression seemed like. Had 90 psi before I took it apart but piston looked fine. It's going back together with new rings and I'm going to put on a 361 carb. Hopefully this will work. Anyone try this? Hopefully the 361 will just bolt on if not I'll make a adapter plate. There are some things I like about it like it starts really good. Anyone with experience would be appreciated to hear from u thanks
 
I think M-tronic has nothing to do with your problem and personally I would double check that pressure and perhaps run a leakdown test: if you have a leaky crankshaft seal you will slowly but steadily lose pressure, not merely have low pressure. If the problem persists, take your saw to a Stihl dealer trained to deal with M-Tronic (Stihl will tell you whom they are) and have them reset the saw.
 
you have to remember m tronic & autotune saws compensate for operating conditions. if you have an air leak they will mask the problem trying to compensate for it. you have to diag these saws by the book. comp test ,leak down,pressure,&vac test
 
That's why I'm happy with all my saws, hey are all pre-2000 w/adj. carbs W/O limiter caps

I don't need any fancy equipment to tell what's wrong or to fix them..........just like my cars/trucks , but they are pre-1990, most pre-1973
 
That's why I'm happy with all my saws, hey are all pre-2000 w/adj. carbs W/O limiter caps

I don't need any fancy equipment to tell what's wrong or to fix them..........just like my cars/trucks , but they are pre-1990, most pre-1973

Old school cool trucks by the sounds of it
 
The plug kept going lean before it lost compression. After I get the jug back on it should have good compression. If not I'll pressure test it. It was leaking bar oil the day it lost compression and that was the first time it did that. Any ideas on that, that it has to do with losing compression? The thanks
 
I looked at the plug after I bought it and it looked good. Then I switched oil brand and it didn't like that I don't think. Computer problem I think. Guy at the stihl dealer said this is a popular saw to come in for top end job.i ran hp2 Honda oil. I richend it up to started at 40-1 then still lean the 32-1 and plug went black. After checking it again it was white. It's a piece of junk imo
 
I have a 261 that I swap back and forth between mtronic and traditional... and back again.

You'd need a carb, ignition, flywheel and perhaps some other bits from a non m-tronic 362 to make it work. Cost wise, you're probably better off unloading it on eBay and buying a 361.
 
A carb off a 361 will not go on a 362, they are nothing alike due to the 362 being stratocharged and the 361 not. But you can get a non-mtronic carb and coil off an early 362 and put that on there.
 
I have a 261 that I swap back and forth between mtronic and traditional... and back again.

You'd need a carb, ignition, flywheel and perhaps some other bits from a non m-tronic 362 to make it work. Cost wise, you're probably better off unloading it on eBay and buying a 361.
I was thinking I can just trick the wiring hopefully
 
you can have good compression and still have an air leak. i wouldnt put it into service until you do vac/pressure test. even if you do swap it to standard carb
 
62 Willys wagon 23 k all OEM: 67 Kaiser jeep CJ5 buick V6 overdrive, 70k miles never seen snow, 73 buick 1 wire ign : 73 C10 292 6 W/1966 fuel system and 75 1 wire GM distributor: 1972 F250 360 V8 creaper gear 4/sp: 68 camaro RS/SS 69 LT1 vette fitted block 370/350 muncie 12 bolt rear from oceanside Cal never seen snow, the "newbie" is a 89 S10 chevy "baja" w/HD everything .......

1939 Ford 9N runs on almost anything, brush hogs 10 acres on 5-gal: 1972 Ford 2000 power steering HI/LO, 1972 TROY BUILT horse tiller , 1972 Ford LGT145

All sort of hand power tools most don't understand....

I won'rt buy into crap I can't work on without tools that cost more than what I'm fixing...

P.S. Sears just moving out , they just have Chi-Com tools now, but I need to get warranty before they leave for good-riddance
 
It would be an interesting experiment leave the mtronic fuel valve connected, but use a traditional carb. I suspect the saw would run but not very well.

When I get a chance I'll try it and see what happens.
Gary that's what I was thinking. Leave the wiring connected to the carb. If you could test for me that would be awesome!
 
62 Willys wagon 23 k all OEM: 67 Kaiser jeep CJ5 buick V6 overdrive, 70k miles never seen snow, 73 buick 1 wire ign : 73 C10 292 6 W/1966 fuel system and 75 1 wire GM distributor: 1972 F250 360 V8 creaper gear 4/sp: 68 camaro RS/SS 69 LT1 vette fitted block 370/350 muncie 12 bolt rear from oceanside Cal never seen snow, the "newbie" is a 89 S10 chevy "baja" w/HD everything .......

1939 Ford 9N runs on almost anything, brush hogs 10 acres on 5-gal: 1972 Ford 2000 power steering HI/LO, 1972 TROY BUILT horse tiller , 1972 Ford LGT145

All sort of hand power tools most don't understand....

I won'rt buy into crap I can't work on without tools that cost more than what I'm fixing...

P.S. Sears just moving out , they just have Chi-Com tools now, but I need to get warranty before they leave for good-riddance
Wow lol. Can we stay on topic?
 
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