Stump Grinding Technique

[DST0922]

Still learning much - especially when working on larger stumps. Below is one I did the other day - too part of stump was 50", with the root flare it was over 6', took me 3.5 hours to do everything (had to dig out rocks, then topsoil and overseed) My question is what is the best technique for attacking the larger stumps. Are you better off starting with the root flare and working in, or starting in the center and working your way out? Being my grinder only has a 44" swing I had to readjust multiple times.

Thanks

- Dave

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[AGoodSteward]

We have a couple of Vermeer 222's. I start on one side(right hand because of the belt assembly on the cutter head) of the stump, 6" outside the stump to set the depth and get the root flare below grade. I check the swing to ensure my furthest right motion will cut everything on that side. Then I pass straight and completely through the side. Reset on the same starting side and make another pass. Have done cottonwoods and maples big enough to require 4 passes + chasing out exposed roots after cleanup.

 

[BC WetCoast]

You have to think how the fibres in the stump go and how the grinder cuts them. The machine works best when the tooth hits the fibre at the top and then cuts longitudinally with the fibre, shredding it more than cutting. I found it is more inefficient when the tooth is cutting perpendicular to the fibre (on the back half of the stump as the fibres now slope away).

What I would do here is make a pass from each buttress root towards the centre. Then reset to finish it off. I tend to grind deep and shovel out chips frequently as I found with our machine, it bogs down when it is churning through mulch. I grind deep because I found that I was able to cut the fibres better farther into the stump, than try and buzz off the top.

 

[marne]

Each machine acts different and has a learning curve.
When I started out, I clocked around 600hrs on my machines before I felt that there was no further improvement in my grinding technique.
Till that point, I paid many expensive lessons. Still there are some left today.

 

[Domski]

Nice job though, it looks good. I'm sure the customer was happy.

 

[DST0922]

Nice job though, it looks good. I'm sure the customer was happy.

Thank you

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[dirthawger]

Still learning much - especially when working on larger stumps. Below is one I did the other day - too part of stump was 50", with the root flare it was over 6', took me 3.5 hours to do everything (had to dig out rocks, then topsoil and overseed) My question is what is the best technique for attacking the larger stumps. Are you better off starting with the root flare and working in, or starting in the center and working your way out? Being my grinder only has a 44" swing I had to readjust multiple times.

Thanks

- Dave

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Just curious how much you charge for grinding the stump and adding topsoil. Trying to see where i am as far as my pricing goes. Ive had people complain that im high and then others ask why im so cheap.

 

[DST0922]

Just curious how much you charge for grinding the stump and adding topsoil. Trying to see where i am as far as my pricing goes. Ive had people complain that im high and then others ask why im so cheap.

Well obviously if your adding topsoil, you have already sold them on hauling the debris away. After that it's just a quick measurement to determine how many bags of soil... I know bulk soil is cheaper but you can buy a cubic foot of bagged topsoil for $1.49 up here, most jobs need 2-12 bags. (20" vs 60" stump) I usually just add about $8-10 bucks per bag on to it. Takes me 5 minutes to dump a couple bags and spread the dirt. I'm with you though, sometimes trying to sell that service to the customer makes you look higher than the other guy who isn't hauling away debris or anything

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