Homelite Chainsaws

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Hi, Tim.

Roger that. I wore through the 'hard' end of my first one for 3/8's in fairly short order

Poge,
Mine was starting to wear some so I tried flame hardening the gauge today. It only took abut 5 minutes and it feels harder than it was. I went with the straw color.
I started heating the long end and slowed heating to spread the colors until the straw color was about the middle of the raker hole and then a quick blast of heat from the short end. When the colors met, I quenched it in water. Give it a try on one you have that's getting worn. A propane torch will do fine.

Check the vid. It goes a lot quicker on the gauge as it's so thin.

 
Hey guys I'm new around here but not so much to saws or cutting wood. I recently decided to start restoring and flipping saws, mostly as a hobby, but if I make some beer money and get a new saw to keep, I won't be heartbroken. So I saw an old homelite XL12 on my local CL for $25, looks decent and complete with the old homelite bar, but has no info. What does a decent running one of these go for? Are parts readily available and cheap? Thanks guys

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Is the saw blue or red? XL12’s were made from late 1963 to the 1980’s and they made a LOT of them. Parts are easy to find, but values are pretty low. 40-50 for a good runner. Blue ones a little more. Condition is everything though and effects price.
 
Is the saw blue or red? XL12’s were made from late 1963 to the 1980’s and they made a LOT of them. Parts are easy to find, but values are pretty low. 40-50 for a good runner. Blue ones a little more. Condition is everything though and effects price.
It's red, and looks in alright shape, this is the saw.
fd00f84805c87a531922de73c9011552.jpg


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Hey all new to the site. I have a newer small Stihl saw and was looking for a larger saw to handle cutting some trees on my property that have been killed by the ash boring beetle. I ended up finding a package of 4 Homlite saws on my local Craigslist. I bought a 750 with a 36"bar, a super xl 925 with a 30" homelite bar, and a xl 98c with 30" bar that says xl98 c on the left side cover, but super xl 925 on the gas tank so I'm not sure what it is for sure.

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The last one is I cannot tell the model, it is a bit t larger than the 750, and has a 53"bar with a helper handle. Plus it seems like there is either no clutch, or there is something wrong because the chain will not free wheel and turns with the engine when you pull it over. I'm not sure if it has been painted, or what. Any help identifying it would be greatly appreciated.
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They were run in the last year and the owner had passed away. The xl 98 fires right up, the 750 and other big one need a carb cleaning. I have not done compression checks yet, but they feel and sound good and all run with a small shot of either.
I got that big saw (3100g) a while ago, but just started working on it. It is the first gear drive I have ever worked on. 1st observations hints to this saw was rebuilt sometime in its lifetime. It looks like the cylinder shield, muffler cover, bottom handle brace, drive case cover and air filter cover were replaced, and possibly the carb as well as the wear on these doesn't match the rest of the saw.
It does have a few issues. First one was the chain always moved when the rope was pulled, After getting it apart, a thrust washer was missing between the clutch and clutch drum. It was nowhere to be seen in the gearbox so I assume the last guy who worked on it forgot to reinstall it. At first compression seemed low, but the compression release lever was just flopping in the wind, the holders were missing. Well the compression release spring was also missing. After correcting these issues, plus new fuel lines, carb clean ect... We have a runner.


 
Does anyone know what the difference is between the XL-12 and Xl-12W? I saw this parts list for sale online and it made me wonder.
 

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Mine was starting to wear some so I tried flame hardening the gauge today.

Sounds like it's worth a shot. My worn one is worn way too much. May try it on one of the new ones and see how it holds up.

Got the kit in the 1050 Tilly yesterday. That was the easy part. Getting the hoses off and back on was a bear. And call me a weakling, but I can't pull that thing over to save my ass and I'm 6'1" / 220 and work out! My Super 250 was the same way until I finally got it running for a while. Seemed to loosen up the compression somewhat..., probably by burning off oil/mix that settled in the case from the last time it was run (or flooded). But this 1050 is a whole other animal!
 
A

Sounds like it's worth a shot. My worn one is worn way too much. May try it on one of the new ones and see how it holds up.

Got the kit in the 1050 Tilly yesterday. That was the easy part. Getting the hoses off and back on was a bear. And call me a weakling, but I can't pull that thing over to save my ass and I'm 6'1" / 220 and work out! My Super 250 was the same way until I finally got it running for a while. Seemed to loosen up the compression somewhat..., probably by burning off oil/mix that settled in the case from the last time it was run (or flooded). But this 1050 is a whole other animal!

I think I'd take the time to prime it a few times through the plug hole. PITA but it should fire quickly.

I've had an old saw hydro lock on me due to a rich idle mix. Stupid stubborn I kept tying and it would come up solid. I finally figured it out after i pulled something in my right forearm being stubborn. I was pulling starters left handed for a month or two.
 
Does this saw have the fairbanks morse style like the c52? Mine was squeaky when I first got it and I sprayed lube on it . It wouldnt work at all after! Cleaned , tweaked the pawls and a little file work . Good as new.
Mine doesn't have that starter, it just has a conventional looking thing with pawl on the flywheel and a slotted starter insert. I put a little oil on the screw on the center axle and it now is quiet. This saw seems so nice I wonder why nobody at the local shop wanted it. I got it for practically nothing..
 
I think I'd take the time to prime it a few times through the plug hole. PITA but it should fire quickly.

I've had an old saw hydro lock on me due to a rich idle mix. Stupid stubborn I kept tying and it would come up solid. I finally figured it out after i pulled something in my right forearm being stubborn. I was pulling starters left handed for a month or two.

pullin lh last 2+ yr. f'd up shoulder. rh start s797 w/push/hold choke bit of pita.
 
What is everyone’s opinion on a Homelite 340? I have a parts saw and I am looking at one that needs fuel lines and a few other things. I thought they were made by solo but the one I’m looking at is made in USA instead of Germany.


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What is everyone’s opinion on a Homelite 340? I have a parts saw and I am looking at one that needs fuel lines and a few other things. I thought they were made by solo but the one I’m looking at is made in USA instead of Germany.


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They are Solo designed, and Solo parts. They may have been assembled here. On these, some parts are difficult to find and a parts saw is the only answer.
 
They are Solo designed, and Solo parts. They may have been assembled here. On these, some parts are difficult to find and a parts saw is the only answer.

Arnold said the Solo parts came in from Germany and were assembled in the US Homelite plant. Parts duty vs finished goods used to make that an economically sound practice. That's why Terry assembled saws in Canada and Poulan had them assembled in the Skil chainsaw plant in Toronto. Back in the '70's &'80's finished goods came into Canada at a duty rate of 28% and parts came in at 13%. If volumes would cover tooling costs, some die casting and other parts may have been manufactured in house or outsourced locally to save on shipping and duty.
 
Was the 340 a well performing saw? I’m trying to decide if it is work my money. $65 for one saw and the second saw was free.

I could put the two together and get one.

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Was the 340 a well performing saw? I’m trying to decide if it is work my money. $65 for one saw and the second saw was free.

I could put the two together and get one.

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Saws are never worth it, even free they cost money,


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